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I would not sweat my balls over the internet gurus who are well versed in any topic, I had the same problem when I was DIY testing my groms back in 2014-15 time frame trying to make it run faster or better. I always had members who are smarter than me tell me I was wrong or doing something wrong or posting facts and such. Yes some of the data they spooled were true, but in the real world testing you have variables that could and will change your final out come.

For me I just ride, DIY testing, change things and see what works and what doesn't and yes sometimes things break, blowup, but the learning curve is always changing.

Just ride it like you stole it and have fun and piss off the cagers and other MC that think you are riding a toy.

Ride safe
Thanks, man. :)
I'm the same. My own actual experience is my guide. I'm always experimenting... like this long intake I modified for more low rpm torque.


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I'm averaging 139 mpg because I don't need to rev up the engine so much to get the bike moving.
 

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i drug mine out from the warehouse today with this ecu and the PCV/WB2 at work over lunch. populated the less than 80% portion of the PCV table to 12.9 afr just to see if it would map to it, it does. rode around for about 35 minutes. was wathing the gauge adjust and the trim tables populated under 80%. The 80-100% were mapping just fine like a stock ecu with a pcv. target is set to 12.2 at 100%

when it was set to zero in that range, it ran to about 13-13.2 on the afr gauge but then i think the pcv was fighting the ecu and it just kept getting richer over time before.

considering nobody on here actually knows 100% what the mods to the ecu programs were, this is def one of the times testing is needed to verify.

It DOES run warmer with this ecu though, so i am sure it has an aggressive timing table.
 

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It DOES run warmer with this ecu though, so i am sure it has an aggressive timing table.
Funny, I just noticed something similar today...
After a trip to town and back, I put my hand on the TOCE muffler and it was hotter, I almost couldn't keep my hand on it even though the ambient temp is cool. Normally it would just be warm to the touch with the stock ECU. I can also tell the ignition advance curve is different from the way the throttle responds. When I swapped out exhausts yesterday from the modified stock cat to the TOCE, I didn't have to do anything. The ECU adjusted for the difference in engine operating parameters.


Cold starts are just a little different because there's no fast idle function. During cranking I manually crack open the throttle just a little bit and then let go once the engine starts. Then even cold it idles fine without dying.

All in all, I'm pleased with the performance of the Yuminashi. :)
 

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My friend and I have identical mods, he has the Yuminashi and I have the Finbro ECU. In a few hundred more miles when his is mapped a bit better I will report back the results. As of now I cruise about 65 pretty easily and can get to 70-73 tucked regularly. Rad hose intake, cheap thai yoshi exhaust, 150 injector, TB cam, and the ECUs
 

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because, i have it set to not auto tune for initial fire up. power commander setting. you had one, you should know this.
 

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My friend and I have identical mods, he has the Yuminashi and I have the Finbro ECU. In a few hundred more miles when his is mapped a bit better I will report back the results. As of now I cruise about 65 pretty easily and can get to 70-73 tucked regularly. Rad hose intake, cheap thai yoshi exhaust, 150 injector, TB cam, and the ECUs
I'm not so sure Finbro and Yuminashi might not be the same product, or at least very similar. Since mine has set itself, the engine cold starts really easy now with no throttle input. And even though there's no fast idle, it doesn't die.
 

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^^^^^What he said, but it works^^^^^

but you would be better off with the Yuminashi because it is cheaper than the Finbro
 

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they are def not the same. and, for whatever reason, the yuminashi ones is OK with the PCV writing a functional map in the closed loop, whereas the finblow wont allow it (from what i have read). I dont know why. But it works.

also, side note for potential PCV/Yuminashi users, the 'rev extend' limiter does work with the yuminashi (that has no limiter), actually adding a rev limiter to the system, which IMHO is a good thing, especially incase of a mis shift.
 

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So, to update my previous post. My Finbro and my friend's Yuminashi are about the same performance wise. We are both able to hit 70mph easily and he has a much better cold start. Again, refer to my previous post for the mod list. Personally if you want to have a budget bolt on bike, I wouldn't be against this ECU. The plugs look identical as well
 

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One of my grom friend in SF has used the Finbro ECM with PCV and was able to make it work and his engine was a 125 with a lot of other stuff he did to the engine such as cam etc. The Finbro or yuminashi are good choice but like I said the yuminashi is cheaper in cost $70 vers $125 for the Finbro.
 

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So, to update my previous post. My Finbro and my friend's Yuminashi are about the same performance wise. We are both able to hit 70mph easily and he has a much better cold start. Again, refer to my previous post for the mod list. Personally if you want to have a budget bolt on bike, I wouldn't be against this ECU. The plugs look identical as well
Neither would I. For the price, I was willing to take the chance. And I believe that's the biggest difference. My Yuminashi has no cold starting issues. It cold starts and idles without touching the throttle. I can smell a hint of fuel in the exhaust on cold idle so the mixture is plenty rich enough to keep the engine from dying. I just changed 4 wires, plugged it in, and ran it.
 

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I'm currently tuning my new build and I'm running a 4 gear map in PCV. My ECU refuses to let my PCV control the rev limit in 1st gear and hiccups every once in a while in 2nd gear. No problems in 3rd. I ordered my Yuminashi on Thursday. If all I get from it is the fact there is no rev limit and my PCV can take care of the rest then I'm going to say that the $75 is more than worth it. If I can in fact start controlling the AFR's in the closed loop with the Yuminashi then even better. But the arguing between the stock ECU and PCV rev limit just has to stop. It's worse than arguing with the wife :crazy:
 

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^ yup. you;ll be good. it will take a WHILE for a 4 gear map to tune, did on mine. the yuminashi ecu when 1st put in will cause the mids to be very rich, just be warned, its a pia. I actually added -5 to all the tables to get it to tune faster, it helped. .02
 

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^ yup. you;ll be good. it will take a WHILE for a 4 gear map to tune, did on mine. the yuminashi ecu when 1st put in will cause the mids to be very rich, just be warned, its a pia. I actually added -5 to all the tables to get it to tune faster, it helped. .02
Thanks for the heads up, I'll be watching my AFR's closely. Can't wait for ECU to come in. It's going to be about a week before it ships because I ordered a few other items that are on backorder. I should've just placed 2 orders, lol.
 

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Thanks for the heads up, I'll be watching my AFR's closely. Can't wait for ECU to come in. It's going to be about a week before it ships because I ordered a few other items that are on backorder. I should've just placed 2 orders, lol.
Just heads up, dj... :)
...repinning the wires is tedious. DO NOT CUT any wires because some go into empty sockets on the connector. Instead pull out the wires from connector WITH the sockets attached. Also double check the socket numbering. If you use the Honda shop manual as your reference, remember the numbering diagram is of the ECM side with the male terminals, NOT the connector side with the female terminals. Check, double check, triple check you're moving the right wires to the right locations so you only need to do it once. If they're done right the ECU will work great. :)
 
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