Honda Grom banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've seen several threads on these subjects but can't find the answers for which I'm looking..

1) Obviously the cruising RPM is high on the Grom. My question is: Is this more similar to cruising on a Ruckus, where it's constantly WOT and the engine handles it fine? Or is it more similar to riding a sport bike down the road in 3rd gear?

Basically, I'm wondering if the Honda reliability will hold true riding this thing around at 6-8k all the time, or if it's actually stressing the engine a good bit. The dealer tried to convince me to get an extended warranty, saying that they see a lot of 250s come in with cooked engines from revving too high too much. I didn't bite, but Id prefer this to not happen to my precious Grom :-/.

It makes me wonder why Honda didn't add in a 5th gear for cruising purposes, much like a car, where 5th/6th gear isn't there to get you too 100+mph, but to provide a good cruising RPM. Hopefully some aftermarket gearing kits will come out to address this issue, that is, if it really is one.

2) As posted many times, the clutch engages almost all the way out, and is slightly annoying. Is this a clutch adjustment issue or is this fixed with aftermarket levers I see many getting?

Side note - My first fill-up was yesterday..... 120 MPG :). I'm only 135Lbs and have been putting around my neighborhood alot at 30-40, not revving into the red, so it seems about right. I'm stoked.



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,067 Posts
It barely pushes through fourth and sometimes loses mph on overpass bridges, adding another gear wouldn't solve anything.. Because it's low displacement and lacks tq you need to spin it to get mph

as for longevity, the Ruckus stock spins 8800 all day and many people spin them 9-10k for 20k miles with no issue.. I'm certain Honda built the engine hold together way past the 9200rpm limiter because it spins 8000rpm at a comfortable cruising speed
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,446 Posts
PS I like the clutch all the way out personally, it makes for quick easy shifts.. No need to do a full pull on the lever just a short pull and the clutch releases plenty to shift gears
Same here. So easy to shift.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yea, Im getting more used to the clutch, although I think I would benefit from smaller levers. As far as not enough power to add another gear, I realize acceleration would be nearly impossible, but it would be like a car, where if you wanted to accelerate at speed, you downshift. But in any case, I think Honda probably knew it was going to be sustained at 5-7k during cruising and hopefully designed the engine to handle it, a la Ruckus.

I live on the right coast in Central FL in a small town called Satellite Beach.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,049 Posts
I have zero concerns about reliability and longevity with this bike. I ride it hard in the canyons and rarely "cruise."

I would not want it to be geared any taller with a 5th gear. The current spacing feels right to me but I rarely hit 4th, I'd never see 5th.

I replaced my levers with some adjustable shorties. In the process I completely loosened up the clutch cable at the engine. When I hooked everything up and tightened everything my clutch now engages at about the half way point on the lever travel. I like this a lot better. It is similar to my other bikes. But since I did everything at once I don't know if the engagement point is different do to my adjustment or the lever.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,087 Posts
I think the engine will be a champ if left alone, right now I ride it almost daily to work and always hit the 9500rpm rev limiter when im crusing im usually around 6-7k rpm also now ive added the piggyback ecu and redline is 12k but i wount go there yet
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
117 Posts
I have close to 1k miles most which are from highway riding. I haven't had any issues and I don't expect any as a result of high revs. I rode my ruckus and crf250l WOT all the time with success.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
111 Posts
Honda delivered an unstressed motor with a good, usable, power band, that can burn 87 octane pump gas without indigestion. Think about it, a lot of guys are fixated on increasing hp and, truly, specific output could be higher...easily 12hp...if one were willing to trade longevity/safety margin (plus a small pile of cash) to get it.

These lower ends are virtually bulletproof, capable of rpm well beyond what the stock rev limiter allows. The primary limiting factor for rpm is the heavy stock rotating assembly. It'd probably take northward of 12K, before peak piston speed becomes an issue. In terms of friction/wear index, piston travel is the big issue. The short explanation, regarding wear index, is that piston speed @7000rpm is equivalent to the typical car engine spinning 3000-3500.

Personally, I'd limit sustained rpm to about 7-7500rpm and monitor oil temp. OEMs typically do their hardcore, final, durability testing with the engine being tested at peak hp/WOT, often for days at a stretch.

With proper maintenance (clean oil, peak temps below 110C, reasonably decent air filter) these engines, in more or less stock form, should be as durable as the Nice/Wave and Innova lumps that preceded them...and those motors are widely known as smooth, run-forever, power plants.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Honda delivered an unstressed motor with a good, usable, power band, that can burn 87 octane pump gas without indigestion. Think about it, a lot of guys are fixated on increasing hp and, truly, specific output could be higher...easily 12hp...if one were willing to trade longevity/safety margin (plus a small pile of cash) to get it.

These lower ends are virtually bulletproof, capable of rpm well beyond what the stock rev limiter allows. The primary limiting factor for rpm is the heavy stock rotating assembly. It'd probably take northward of 12K, before peak piston speed becomes an issue. In terms of friction/wear index, piston travel is the big issue. The short explanation, regarding wear index, is that piston speed @7000rpm is equivalent to the typical car engine spinning 3000-3500.

Personally, I'd limit sustained rpm to about 7-7500rpm and monitor oil temp. OEMs typically do their hardcore, final, durability testing with the engine being tested at peak hp/WOT, often for days at a stretch.

With proper maintenance (clean oil, peak temps below 110C, reasonably decent air filter) these engines, in more or less stock form, should be as durable as the Nice/Wave and Innova lumps that preceded them...and those motors are widely known as smooth, run-forever, power plants.
Awesome. Just what I wanted to hear to assuage my fears. I never thought about it on my Ruck being an automatic and having no tach, but it all makes sense to me! Thanks!
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top