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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Let me preface this by saying I have 18 year tech experience on a wide variety of vehicles, so this wasn't a noob having an issue with his Fisher Price Tool Set.

What a chore. Over an hour, NOW 1/2 of that was taking apart that monstrosity from Honda. WAY too many fasteners on that part, I can only assume it was reworked in hast to comply with USDOT. I digress...

Aside from being slightly more complicated than I envisioned I have a few issues with the kit.

1. Why is is two parts? Seems like the LP mount was an afterthought.

2. The cables for the marker lights have to go around the LP light, or be smashed by the bracket. It needs to be spaced away from the chassis, I'll do this later.

3. The holes for the LP light are too large, I had to reuse some washers from the bike to make it work.

4. Button/pan head fasteners would be much cleaner, I'll be replacing mine with black ones soon.

5. This kit will leave a hole in your trunk allowing water in just under the seat latch. Duct tape is a classy solution.

Other than all that, very nice finish and quality. The coating seems a bit delicate. Fasteners could be better (don't need the LP ones but thanks :D).

In the end, the price is right and it looks damn sexy!! Even with those shit US spec blinkers!

Not bashing, sharing, constructive criticism for 3.0!

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For item #3 - check your stock LP light.... There should be a large black rectangular rubber gasket where the stock LP light attaches to the stock Honda fender. Re-use this large black rubber gasket (item #6 in pic) on the Composimo LP mount plate. The gasket has a nub that goes into the large hole. Now thread the light bulb through the hole in the gasket. Perfect fit. The light won't rattle and the bulb has a snug fit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
For item #3 - check your stock LP light.... There should be a large black rectangular rubber gasket where the stock LP light attaches to the stock Honda fender. Re-use this large black rubber gasket on the Composimo LP mount plate. The gasket has a nub that goes into the large hole. Now thread the light through the hole in the gasket. Perfect fit. The light won't rattle and the bulb has a snug fit.

THANKS! I'll check that tomorrow. I'm sure I missed a few things not going off any install instructions. I went all Ikea on it.
 

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For #2 - simply run the blinker wires straight up to where the stop light is... there is enough space under the stop light to feed the blinkers wire through... you won't need to crush the blinker wires.
 

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I'll do a detail picture tutorial when I put mine on in the next couple days for future buyers.
Yea my only gripe was that it didn't come with directions, an hour doesn't seem too bad, worked on CV axles with a slide hammer for the better part of 3 hours before it got it out
 

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I had zero problems running wires on mine. Time to remove the factory monstrosity is not something john can control. Also button head Allen's don't torque down well at all. I rarely use them for that reason.
 

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Please add in instructions to place a piece of blue tape(removable) over frame horns. I have seen 5 videos of people dropping bolts down them. Some did it twice. I did this before I started and all went well. I also recommend getting bike high as possible. My back was sore because grom is so low to ground. Make sure to list all tools needed before you start.
 

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Gromnomnom: Thanks for the constructive criticism... it does help to hear experiences on this stuff... "to me" i can install this setup blindfolded in about 10 minutes, including full tail dis-assembly... but then again, i've done it more than once... I'm sure that in your 18 years of tech experience, you have cars that you know like the back of your hand, but something new comes in, and it can take a while to get accustomed to it... like taking 30 minutes to remove and dis-assemble the Honda-engineered tail section.


Anyway, to hit on your points:

1. Why is is two parts? Seems like the LP mount was an afterthought. - Its not an afterthought at all. The license plate bracket is now 2-piece (it used to be 1), to give folks the option of removing it at a later date. Also, from a manufacturing/inventory perspective, it makes life a lot easier, because if someone orders one without the plate bracket, the bracket can simply not be included in the packaging, rather than having two completely separate TT units... kinda the same thinking that makes Honda try to re-use the same parts across multiple models of bikes and cars...

2. The cables for the marker lights have to go around the LP light, or be smashed by the bracket. It needs to be spaced away from the chassis, I'll do this later. - Going around the light didn't seem like it was that big of a deal, as those wires are too long anyway, and the added length tucked into the tail just seemed like a mess also... so going around the light took up some slack. I'll look into adding a provision though in the future to allow the wires to go straight over the light.

3. The holes for the LP light are too large, I had to reuse some washers from the bike to make it work. - You need to use ALL of the components from the stock mounting... including the rubber gasket and the metal dowel/washer parts that go into the rubber gasket.

4. Button/pan head fasteners would be much cleaner, I'll be replacing mine with black ones soon. - Would have been cleaner, however as someone already mentioned, they use a much smaller allen head, which makes it a lot easier to strip.

5. This kit will leave a hole in your trunk allowing water in just under the seat latch. Duct tape is a classy solution. - I've ridden this bike in the rain with this setup on it, and actually DID check under the seat for moisture because my phone and charging stuff was under it, and i didn't see any abundance of moisture... that being said, i think that anyone RELYING on their underseat storage to be bone dry in a rain storm may be a bit optimistic... even OEM seat setups that have rubber gaskets like scooter seats tend to leak a bit of the water hits them just right... I'd still take measures to protect things you don't want to get wet.



Anyway, once again, thanks for giving me your insights... i definitely do listen to them! :)
 

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Props to Composimo for his tact and professionalism. It's rare to see a company respond to a critique without getting defensive and lose their bearing. I am glad I ordered my eliminator from you (and am very pleased with it). Shout out to Gromnomnom for providing a write-up and helping future installers. I hate forum communities where people start flaming each other, that crap gets old quick.
 

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Props to Composimo for his tact and professionalism. It's rare to see a company respond to a critique without getting defensive and lose their bearing. I am glad I ordered my eliminator from you (and am very pleased with it). Shout out to Gromnomnom for providing a write-up and helping future installers. I hate forum communities where people start flaming each other, that crap gets old quick.
Hi! I'd really like to get one of these tidy tails but would need step by step instructions from beginning to end. Is there a video out there and I can't find it? Once I study the vid, I know I can do it. Thanks!
 

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Laidoutchevy: Too much drama and hate exist already... i want to provide the best products i can, and i can test a lot of things here myself, but its impossible to test EVERY possible scenario or plan for every possible experience level... that is why things grow and get better over time, because we learn, adapt, and make better. If i had a full engineering team/think-tank here, and millions to invest in R&D like Honda for instance, it'd be one thing... but this is a very small shop with extremely limited resources. I'm glad that you're happy with your TT! :) Thanks!

Marmotos: I was working on an actual picture tutorial rather than a video... but maybe the next one i do i can shoot some quick vids of it as i go through the process...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I spaced the frame holes.... Jesus Harold Christ. Dropped the washer AND the nut in there, had to lift the bike on the back tire by myself and shake to get them out, what a PITA!! They sell plugs at ACE, I'm going to try and find some and seal those permanently.

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I spaced the frame holes.... Jesus Harold Christ. Dropped the washer AND the nut in there, had to lift the bike on the back tire by myself and shake to get them out, what a PITA!! They sell plugs at ACE, I'm going to try and find some and seal those permanently.
Yeah I covered the holes with some tape for the time being just to prevent just that.
 

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Hey John killer product. Great price. Well built.

For those installing. Place a piece of tape over frame horns before you start. Says a lot of hassle if you drop bolt or washer. Many have made this mistake.

marmotos: checkout 808yewtube on you tube. You will get an idea on what is involved. This is not a hard install. Pay attention when routing wires. You can also see the BIG difference between John's clean design and yoshi's complicated wire hassle. Johns is plug and play.
 

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:wave: That was actually me in that yewtube video dropping the nut in the frame. lol We did the yosh and tt that day I would say both of them took just as long to do just because the tt you have to get to the LP light and the Yosh we had to do some soldering. Its more on preference I would say but the hiccup on each of them, the tt plate isnt angled enough so our plates hit my blinkers so I had bend the LP mount so that it wouldnt scratch the hell of out my blinkers. The yosh one uses those cheap stage 6 wires that we all love. Threw away the connectors and just soldered them small ass wires...
 
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