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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This is going to sound like a project thread at first... but it's not. This is going to be a short review of all the Grom products I've tried as I've noticed I've bought quite a few that aren't seeing a lot of mileage on US soil (at least by frequent posters on here).

Here's my bike:






And in no particular order, a list of parts I've tried:

TST front blinkers - great, but would benefit from a gasket and internal shaped washer to prevent rotation

Endurance dash - similar to the Koso but with different blinker LEDs and a simplified interface; downside = slower refresh rate than OEM gauge; includes oil temp. sender, speed sensor, etc. and is awesome

Composimo dash mount - the only real option for a stock look... heavy as hell for what it is, and the dash is a press fit into rubber bushings (easy to steal)

Riders flat adjustable levers - not bad, but I replaced them with ASV very quickly

ASV shorty levers - should come stock on every bike

Power Vision CX and wideband kit - a little bit of a learning curve but VERY powerful logging/reflash tool; the only other tuning solution I'd consider would be the aRacer

SP Takegawa low MSX125SF handlebar - as low as you can get without touching the tank or installing clip-ons; holes predrilled; nice hardcoat finish

Yoshimura tail tidy - cleanest kit I could find but if you install a rack or exhaust mount, you have to stack things in a non-standard way

Stompgrip tank grips - terrible fit out of the package; I didn't use the black grips as they'd mismatch the body and the clear grips were not mirror images for some unknown reason... I cut them down to size since the pics and they do the job just fine

Renthal Kevlar grips - weird color but that's what I liked about them; seem to be holding up - not much else to say

Kitaco clear bar ends - they're sacrificial parts, not much else to say but they look a little more unique than most...

MNNTHBX Speigler brake lines - good kit, not much difference in brake feel (bleeding the OEM brakes after delivery was 10x more effective); wish the kit included Copper banjo washers (2-3x use) rather than Aluminum (1x use ONLY). Banjo washers distorted at stock torque spec.

World Walk SF mirrors - almost totally rigid mount + adjustment... will be replacing with OEM Rebel mirrors as the brake + clutch clamp need to be rotated on the bar to get a good rear view with the World Walk parts; you should not be required to adjust your brake + clutch position just for a set of mirrors; they look nice though!

Ohlins front fork kit - should be a baseline upgrade for Grom owners; there are better brands... but this is cheap(er) and worthwhile if you aren't tracking the bike

Ohlins rear shock - again, should be a baseline upgrade for Grom owners; there are better brands... but this is cheap(er) and worthwhile if you aren't tracking the bike

HRC exhaust pipe - requirement for HRC Grom Cup exhaust compatibility; nice large diameter straight pipe with a stabilizing bolt to the bottom of the motor

Endurance Grom Cup exhaust - slip-fit with springs, nice sound, very free-flowing, and support bracket to stabilize the exhaust to the frame

H2S rear rack - 6 lb weight limit is pretty lousy, but it works just fine the few times I've needed it

Endurance racing rear sets - very adjustable but honestly, the build quality for the price leaves a lot to be desired; the hardware was so crappy that nearly every nut + bolt was replaced

Kitaco right-side engine cover - must have part

Kitaco forged clutch cover - never had issues with the stock cover but cheap insurance against downtime on ordering replacement parts

SMR 60% clutch springs - downgraded to 30% by swapping 3 springs for stock... 60% just felt excessive but I might swap back eventually

SMR discs/plates - for those that don't understand how a multi-plate clutch works, the addition of the extra plate/disc in the SMR kit gives a multiplicative advantage in holding force to the SMR kit over other kits on the market; great kit

Motodynamic sequential/integrated LED tail - looks like the SF stock tail but better, and aside from adding a little wiring under the seat, zero complaints

Endurance flattened stock Grom seat - it's the stock Grom SF seat, but without the hump; probably not the best seat on the market, but a solid upgrade

TB cam - took me from 66 mph to 72 mph with tuning; low-end suffers a little and the tappets are at the ragged edge of adjustment... but it's a good cam overall

Sato racing shift support - couldn't really tell a difference in shifts, to be honest... neutral is still lousy to find at times and clutchless shifts from 1-2 sometimes cause 2nd to pop into neutral around 6-7k RPM

G-Craft wheel spacers - similar to the Gromfatherz speed spacers; main benefit to me was the lip that makes wheel removal + reinstall a little easier

14t JT sprocket - great upgrade for the stock bike, but after you make some power elsewhere, it becomes less relevant; upgrading to a 428 chain/gear-set in a week or two that will be a little closer to stock gearing (but I also have a 5spd Takegawa kit on the way)

DNA airbox filter - didn't notice a difference over stock; waiting for a Drow carbon intake coming this week and running without a filter for a few days... if you ever want to see how restrictive the stock airbox is and don't live down a dirt road, try this sometime and be amazed

Koso large throttle intake tubes - never used them... save yourself the time/money and get an aftermarket intake

Motion Pro quick throttle tube (metal) - better, but not great... call MP to get a faster Yamaha cam and it becomes much more worthwhile (and it WILL fit the housing, just barely).

Heidenau K58 mod (all season) 120f 140r tires - amazing in the rain, not just compared to stock (junk) tires... but in general; if you live in a rainy area - get some; just be sure to buy the right ones - Heidenau named their Winter tires the K58 mod. as well and they are a pain in the butt to order without getting the wrong ones...

MNNTHBX bronze swingarm bushings - great kit, but the included bolts seized twice... throwing an extra bolt or two into the kit might help this; the left-side bushing was a tight fit and a little bit of bronze shavings came off during the pressed install

Kitaco front windscreen - I really want to like this kit, but it makes taking the headlight off take about 4 times longer than usual... kit is currently gathering dust but might reinstall it later

Kitaco helmet lock - I rarely use it, but it's quicker than the bracket under the seat

Other random stuff - removed the EVAP, the kickstand switch, and the rear master (as part of the Endurance rear set kit); all worthwhile

Placeholders for other parts pending install or in the mail:

Takegawa 5 Speed
Kitaco 428 front/rear sprockets and DID 428 X-ring chain
Kitaco wide chain plate
Kitaco 12.2:1 compression piston + new Grom cylinder - will need to clay this with the TB cam
Koso 34mm throttle and 30mm intake manifold + Takegawa idle screw
Drow carbon intake
Brembo 4P front caliper
PCX150 injector
Endurance catch can
Takegawa 4th crank bearing
Yuminashi extended tappet screws
Kitaco starter
NGK CP9E plug + spares
Goodridge M10x1.25 rear banjo switch
Kitaco 3-row oil cooler (5-row wouldn't fit with the upper Kitaco frame bracket)
Kitaco rigid handlebar bushings
Koso chain tensioner
Custom brackets in-accordance-with HRC Grom Cup preparation manual (to be welded to swingarm) - for HRC rear spools and chain guard

Steering damper bracket (won't be installed for a while)
CBR250R clip-ons (won't be installed for a while)
G-Craft fork extensions (will need machine work and won't be installed for a while)
Kitaco handlebar stopper (won't be installed for a while)
 

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The Composimo dash is really heavy, I wish someone would have a light plastic alternative.

What oil temp sensor is used with the Endurance dash? I've been thinking about switching from the stock sensor to an oil drain plug sensor. Curious if that's what you're using.

And you can do without the ''wide chain plate'', you can fit a 16T sprocket with no modification and you can just grind the stock plate a bit if you need to fit a 17T.
 

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nice write up

As far as stock airbox, I trimmed out the front cover to use the rim as a place holder for my BMC airfilter and did the DIY airbox mod removing the restrictive screen and also replaced the rear rubber hose of the box with the Koso 30/34mm rubber hose so it will mate with my 34mm ported and polished throttle body with the DIY polished inlet tube.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
The Composimo dash is really heavy, I wish someone would have a light plastic alternative.

What oil temp sensor is used with the Endurance dash? I've been thinking about switching from the stock sensor to an oil drain plug sensor. Curious if that's what you're using.

And you can do without the ''wide chain plate'', you can fit a 16T sprocket with no modification and you can just grind the stock plate a bit if you need to fit a 17T.
The oil temp. sensor is a drain plug sensor with a quick disconnect plug so you can still change your oil. The engine operating temperature sensor is not the best way to gauge sustained cooling performance of an air cooled engine.

The Kitaco plate was like 10 bucks so I figured why not, since I was making a WeBike order anyhow.

nice write up

As far as stock airbox, I trimmed out the front cover to use the rim as a place holder for my BMC airfilter and did the DIY airbox mod removing the restrictive screen and also replaced the rear rubber hose of the box with the Koso 30/34mm rubber hose so it will mate with my 34mm ported and polished throttle body with the DIY polished inlet tube.
I've got the Drow intake being delivered Friday and the airbox was a no-go as I wanted to use the Kitaco frame-mounted bracket for a 3-row cooler (in the middle of an exchange now with Hard Racing as I found the 5-row doesn't work with the bracket kit without pretty major trimming). Long term, this bike will see a Neo 181cc kit, and the Drow intake will give me the ability to just swap over to the 34mm inlet version of the intake at that time.

I created an internal shaped "washer" with silicone. They stay in place nicely. :)
I bought a washer kit... might have been a TST part? It works better than nothing but they can still be rotated since they've got no anti-rotation key/tang. I suppose I could just drive a small screw through the back of the boomerang into the blinker.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Takegawa oil pump - totally forgot about this before... but it went in within the first 200 miles along with the right-side engine cover

Kitaco 428 front/rear sprockets and DID 428 X-ring chain - bought a 34t and 37t rear to go with a 16t front. Made a HUGE mistake and cut the chain one link short the first time and couldn't run the 37t. Bike was a total dog with 16/34 gears so I bought a second chain, tossed the first in the trash (I know...), and everything feels much better now. That said, I already ordered a JT 14t and 15t front as well as a 34t/35t/36t rear set so I can screw with the gearing all I want. I'm guessing I'll end up using the 36t or 37t rear with the 15t front. The 428 chain is definitely more beefy than the 420 stocker.

Kitaco wide chain plate - popped right into place and it was dirt cheap. No complaints and though I'm not running a 17t front now, I'll be able to if I ever want to.

Kitaco 12.2:1 compression piston + new Grom cylinder - bike feels a good deal more punchy on acceleration, despite pulling 2 deg timing (back to stock) over what I was running prior. Not a night and day difference that I hoped I'd feel, but a good upgrade as long as I'm still running 125 cc.

Koso 34mm throttle and 30mm intake manifold + Takegawa idle screw + PCX150 injector - will need to come back to this after I get into a Neo 181 cc kit. Installed it all with the 12.2:1 piston and it ran like crap. Rather than banging my head against a wall trying to tune a giant throttle AND new injector at the same time, I just put the stock parts back on.

Drow carbon intake - unfortunately it wouldn't fit with the Kitaco frame bracket for my oil cooler (without major cutting), so it's in the 'for sale' box right now. I ran an open throttle for a week or so before I bought a universal angled Uni foam filter.

Endurance catch can - it's a big shiny can that collects oil. Not much else to say since it doesn't add any further venting to the crankcase. I installed a Uni UP-121 breather filter on the end of the hose, per the Kitaco bracket instructions.

Takegawa 4th crank bearing - super easy install, can't really tell a difference. Fairly cheap insurance, I suppose.

Yuminashi extended tappet screws - took about a month to arrive, but well worth it with the TB cam. No longer are my tappet nuts hanging off the last half-thread on the tappet screws.

Kitaco starter - installed before the 12.2:1 piston so I don't know if it was needed. Makes a little higher pitched cranking sound... otherwise, can't tell a difference over stock.

NGK CP9E plug + spares - installed the projected 7 heat range plug per the Kitaco power pack instructions (which are designed around the 12.2:1 piston). Didn't notice any difference.

Kitaco 3-row oil cooler (5-row wouldn't fit with the upper Kitaco frame bracket) - so, the cooler is fine and all but... the oil hoses/fittings that are included are absolutely garbage and leak like a sieve. Unfortunately, the right-side motor cover and cooler also use 10 mm banjo connections with a (roughly) -4AN line (technically, its a 6 mm ID hose). For those that have ever made custom lines for this setup, you've probably realized that 10 mm banjo bolts are much more common on -3AN lines (clutch/brakes/etc.). Finding a -4AN fitting that will accept a 10mm bolt is a real pain, but my custom lines are on the way.

Kitaco rigid handlebar bushings - super easy install... didn't notice much difference

Koso chain tensioner - installed with the piston and 4th bearing kit. Another easy install that I'll probably never actually notice making a difference.

Steering damper bracket - this was a cheap Piranha brand part from Thailand. It didn't fit with my Takegawa handlebar in place so it's sitting in the spares box.

Kitaco handlebar stopper - disables the steering lock, but keeps the handlebars well away from the bodywork. Debating on leaving this on the bike or not - the only time it's noticeable is in parking lot U-turns.


The rest of the parts waiting for install:

Takegawa 5 Speed - might wait for a BBK... or at least the next oil change before installing
Brembo 4P front caliper - necessary bracket is still about 2 weeks out
Goodridge M10x1.25 rear banjo switch - been too lazy to extend the wires and bleed the brakes
Custom brackets in-accordance-with HRC Grom Cup preparation manual (to be welded to swingarm) - for HRC rear spools and chain guard - brackets are in-hand and my welder is up to the task... but my personal life has been pretty hectic at the moment and I haven't pulled the swingarm off yet
CBR250R clip-ons (won't be installed for a while) - can't install until the next parts arrive and...
G-Craft fork extensions (will need machine work and won't be installed for a while) - parts are custom made and will be delivered in September - November

And new stuff:

Kiega US-5, SOS-12, and tie-down straps - still waiting for the straps, but I have the SOS-12 in-hand and have a really good feeling about this as a cargo solution!
Endurance Lightweight Flywheel - ETA a week or two
Endurance Steel Racing Handlebar
- ETA a week or two (I think it will be a hair better than the Takegawa, which is really damn nice, as-is!)

My long term wish list is getting smaller by the day:

Neo 181 BBK
Kitaco knuckle guards
Takegawa rear caliper bracket (has speed sensor provisions for the Endurance dash!) and Brembo 2P caliper to match my front 4P
TPR or DCR dual valve springs (unless I get the Neo kit first)
RacingBros front fork and rear shock kits
Takegawa slipper clutch (maybe)
HYPERPRO steering damper and clamp (once I get my whole bracket fit issues sorted - I'm trying to avoid buying the G-Craft bracket)
Takegawa or NECTO front brake rotor
Battle Factory or Endurance under cowl (cheap security against a major sudden oil leak causing a crash)
Big throttle kit (Kitaco? Takegawa? Yuminashi down-draft?) - only if the Koso doesn't work well for me
BST wheels (someday... maybe) - these are right up there with aftermarket swing arms and RS fork stem kits... probably won't ever happen
 

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Discussion Starter #7



Update:

Takegawa 5 Speed - well worth the trouble of splitting the case. Easy install, smoother shifting, no more popping from 2nd gear into Neutral on full throttle runs when 2nd didn't engage fully. Bike should have come with this gearing stock.

Brembo 4P front caliper - stock master works well though has some increased travel. Modulation is a GREAT deal better than the stock caliper. Not a good upgrade if you're prone to grabbing the brake when you panic as it could easily lock the front or even lift the rear tire off the ground. Biggest downside - front rotor needs to be unbolted to remove the front tire OR the caliper.

Takegawa rear caliper bracket and Brembo 2P caliper - Takegawa rear bracket has provisions for a speed sensor... but unfortunately the Endurance sensor will not fit. 2P caliper is a good upgrade over stock without any downsides to note.

Endurance Steel Racing Handlebar
- much nicer than the Takegawa bar and still comes pre-drilled. Very narrow bar; lane-splitting state riders would LOVE this bar.

Kitaco knuckle guards - they don't really bolt-up to non-OEM bars, so they're just gathering dust.

TPR dual valve springs - easy install, nothing to complain about though I don't have the head flow to really take advantage of the higher rev limit.

All Balls Racing steering stem bearings - not compatible with the 125SF... changes the steering geometry in a way that lowers the front end by 5 mm and makes low speed stability questionable. Fine for a race bike... avoid this kit for the street!

Yoshimura steering stem nut - allows the install of a stem-mounted phone mount and looks pretty. Not much else to note.

Endurance Lightweight Flywheel - not fully compatible with the SF model and caused electrical instability; OEM part reinstalled immediately.

Kiega US-5, US-10, SOS-12, and tie-down straps - all three bags fit fine, but the US-10 is probably the best balance between usable size and rider comfort, especially if you like to sit on the rear half of the seat when you tuck.

Enduristan tail bag - also a good cargo option, albeit pricey. Only works if you have a cargo rack on the tail but the install is a little easier than the tie-down strap options.

Stuff awaiting install:

Endurance under cowl - very rough finish out of the box; will NOT fit with Kitaco side cover oil cooler lines so I will hold off on installing this until I get the NEO 181 kit and move the cooler lines to the cylinder.
Goodridge M10x1.25 rear banjo switch - been too lazy to extend the wires and bleed the brakes
Custom brackets in-accordance-with HRC Grom Cup preparation manual (to be welded to swingarm) - for HRC rear spools and chain guard - brackets are in-hand and my welder is up to the task... but my personal life has been pretty hectic at the moment and I haven't pulled the swingarm off yet
CBR250R clip-ons (won't be installed for a while) - can't install until the next parts arrive and...
G-Craft fork extensions (will need machine work and won't be installed for a while) - received but not yet machined.

Wish list:

Yoshimura ST1M cam - might skip this as the cam costs 25% of the 181 kit below
Neo 181 BBK
RacingBros front fork and rear shock kits - have the front fork kit, haven't bought the shock
Takegawa slipper clutch (maybe)
HYPERPRO steering damper and clamp
Takegawa front/rear brake rotor
Big throttle kit (Kitaco? Yuminashi down-draft?) - probably going to use the Kitaco part but not looking forward to chopping the fairing up.
BST wheels (someday... maybe)
 

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Again nice write up, ride safe

BST wheels no way too expensive for what you get but worth the wt savings if you trying to reduce grom total weight.

Biggest change and finding for me is using GromFatherZ manual cam chain adjustment unit, well worth the money and

removing the OEM sensor in the head for CL adjustment of A/F, this help reduce exhaust gas backup and heat in the head. This is only done on Stand alone ECU such as Aracer. Just plug the hole up with a 12mm bolt.
 

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mrsaturn, is the temp sensor you are using from Koso? If so is it the 10Ω (ref BF120125) or the 50Ω (BF120000) with JST plug? I'd say 50Ω but yours seems to have a black plug.
And could you please share where you found the extension cable?
 
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