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Discussion Starter #1
My clutch has been slipping even with the EBC springs, so I decided to swap them for Finbro springs and deglaze the clutch. I was extremely careful to put the clutch basket and surrounding parts back together in the same order that I removed them, down to the order and direction of the plates. When I put the clutch cover back on and went to attach the cable there was no resistance. The plunger is not engaging the bearing. I've double checked to see if it's in place and everything looks perfect. I decided to pull the assembly off and try to disassemble and reassemble, since I know sometimes that makes the difference needed. However, this time I cannot get the castle nut off. The clutch spins when more than ~30 ft lbs is applied.

Any recommendations on any of this?

I've never touched a clutch before and this is basically an experiement.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Well crap. I don't have an impact or even an air compressor. Would an electric one suffice?

I didn't see anything in the service manual about indexes. Tell me more, please. I did notice the the friction plates had a colored tab on each. Inner were white and outer green, I think?

Edit: Looks like even an inexpensive cordless impact like the Ryobi 18v can do 150 ft lbs. Black Friday here I come.
 

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yeah. get a cordless impact. Hell, even the harbor freight corded ones are decent for light jobs.

Once you have a cordless impact, youll never use a drill again for driving screws (if you ever do that).


For colors, green on the outside, white on the inside. Though, i believe they are all the same part number, so i dont think it /really/ matters.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I guess I'll be getting up early and throwin' 'bows at The Home Despot to get a cordless impact. Just have to figure out what went wrong when putting it together. I was so careful...
 

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My favorite for all around work is a 3/8" square drive dewalt, you can get a brushless motor and the small hex drive impacts tend to shear adaptors under heavy use (non motorcycle) but they are good as well. I worked at a large construction equipment maker and they used the 3/8 drive and small hex impacts (with adaptors) on the assembly line day in and day out on huge16mm bolts before getting out the torque wrench. They stood up to use and abuse very well.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks Fox85. I was sure I had those set, but clearly something isn't right. I'll double check both bushings and the washer inside the basket, too.
 

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My favorite for all around work is a 3/8" square drive dewalt, you can get a brushless motor and the small hex drive impacts tend to shear adaptors under heavy use (non motorcycle) but they are good as well. I worked at a large construction equipment maker and they used the 3/8 drive and small hex impacts (with adaptors) on the assembly line day in and day out on huge16mm bolts before getting out the torque wrench. They stood up to use and abuse very well.
I was shearing them left and right with the new Milwaukee 18v brushless impact I bought, snap on and generic hex 3/8 bits were breaking within a day or 2 of replacement. I finally bought a Milwaukee 3/8 hex bit and they typically last 2 months before they break. And they are about $3-4 a piece... snap on one was $20!

Granted I was using them on 18mm subframe bolts ?
 

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Might find this helpful. Note the first and last friction discs are a different part number than the rest.
 

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Discussion Starter #11


Might find this helpful. Note the first and last friction discs are a different part number than the rest.
Well, there's nothing in the diagram that isn't in the service manual, but the part number breakdown is nice, for sure. Thanks.
 

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I was shearing them left and right with the new Milwaukee 18v brushless impact I bought, snap on and generic hex 3/8 bits were breaking within a day or 2 of replacement. I finally bought a Milwaukee 3/8 hex bit and they typically last 2 months before they break. And they are about $3-4 a piece... snap on one was $20!

Granted I was using them on 18mm subframe bolts ?
Yes thanks for that, I forgot to specify the best bits if you go hex bit. I use Milwaukee bits for my work impact . ( my 3/8 Dewalt is for my personal garage tools, my work issues me a hex bit Dewalt)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well, I was in line at Home Depot this morning at 5:30. Got a cordless impact and a couple of Milwaukee bits for my sockets in 3/8" and 1/2". At first the clutch still spun, but I had my wife hold onto the big nut from the Kitaco clutch cover that goes on the crank and then the castle nut busted loose.

As far as why the clutch didn't go together right the first time, I think the indexes that Fox85 mentioned had popped out of place and there were a couple mm of play between the stack of plates and the pressure/center plates. To keep this from happening again at install, I went ahead and put the lifter plate and springs in with a few threads on the bolts to apply enough pressure to keep everything in place. Getting the entire assembly in was a bit of a pain, but this time it worked. I'm back up and running again.

Thank you very much for your help guys.
 

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Updated this thread. The newer model Groms have the same parts diagram for the clutch plates as older models, but the OEM clutch plates are all the same now. Confusing a bit.

Look at the attached parts diagram and parts numbers. Attached is also a picture of the clutch plates from my grom 2019. All the same.

86993


86994


86996
86995
 
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