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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So apparently it seems I am the only one thus far to have had any issues with the clutch. Adjusted the cable on both
Ends multiple times and got the perfect amount of free play, but still no dice. Just slipping. So....

My buddy opened it up and to know surprise the plates were smoked, completely black. Why? My fault? Defective? Doesn't matter now. I got a hold of honda to check on warranty of this kind of thing. Basically No go on warranty coverage. Wearable item? Damn! Had the grom less then 3weeks with only 1xx miles on it.

To replace the clutch kit with stock OEM honda clutch; plates, fibers, springs the whole shazam. $97.00 Not bad.

Spoke with EBC and they already have part numbers for a aftermarket clutch kit specific for the grom. They said in the next month or two it will be released. Super stoked on that.

What do you guys prefer?
Honda clutch?
EBC?
Other?

So I'm posting this to reach out with anyone else with similar issues or just people's interest.

Sorry for the novel

Cheers,
 

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With 1xx miles on it?! I don't think you can burn a clutch enough in that short amount of time for failure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I know. I didn't call honda of America. Just a few dealerships. Apparently cause I was riding it with no free play I smoked the plates. Still would think it wouldn't fry the plates that fast.
 

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Speaking on behalf of big bikes here but if you do some research you'll find that majority of the time aftermarket clutch setups can't touch the OEM clutches, when it comes to long lasting and a good feel etc you just can't beat them. Personally and from friends bikes over the years, we've tried multiple different brands on different model bikes and we also ended up back with OEM clutches.

Good luck on your decision.
 

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I know. I didn't call honda of America. Just a few dealerships. Apparently cause I was riding it with no free play I smoked the plates. Still would think it wouldn't fry the plates that fast.
Unfortunate, but yes. Make sure to adjust with some free play.

better luck next time.....
 

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Actually both my wife's and my Grom came with over tight clutch cables.
Luckly I noticed it strait away and fixed it.
I would have thought it was a PDI thing,
as obvously after only a 100 miles there is no way the clutch would have burned out if it was adjusted correctly from new.
I woud go back to the dealer and give them SHIT.....

Dog
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Actually both my wife's and my Grom came with over tight clutch cables.
Luckly I noticed it strait away and fixed it.
I would have thought it was a PDI thing,
as obvously after only a 100 miles there is no way the clutch would have burned out if it was adjusted correctly from new.
I woud go back to the dealer and give them SHIT.....

Dog
I am in the process of doing so. One of the guys at Hondas looking in to it for me. Said thats super strange and in that amount of time. When I received the grom I noticed it right away also and fixed it to the best of my knowledge. To shed some light on the matter, looks like EBC is coming out with an aftermarket clutch kit. Don't quote me but I think ones with carbon plates and one for racing performance?
 

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Bummer you smoked your clutch. I can see it happening that quickly if it is not adjusted properly. My son has smoked a clutch in as little as 90 minutes from too much slipping.

My clutch works fine but I think it would benefit from some stiffer springs.
 

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My clutch works fine but I think it would benefit from some stiffer springs.
This is my outlook. Most times EBC plates are 85% of what OEM are so I just pay the extra for OEM plates. I have heard good things about EBCs race kits, though.

I have used Barnett plates and springs before and found the plates way too grabby. Great for racing, not for the street.

I will whole-heartedly recommend stiffer springs though. I have 10,000km of mostly offroad on my TW200, with OEM plates and Barnett springs and the clutch is as tight as ever. Springs not only give you better feel but they won't allow the plates to slip as easy or as long.
 

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YUP, oem plates/clutches with stiffer springs ftw.
 

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Actually both my wife's and my Grom came with over tight clutch cables.

I would have thought it was a PDI thing,

What to check (PDI list) before you take delivery of your bike / motorcycle | Nex Gen Bikes

....wouldn't it be nice if a checklist were provided and the dealer went through the basics with the buyer present to avoid such discrepancies?

....being charged for such a service really begs to question the sincerety of such things in the minds of consumers and to whether these things are really being done, or is it just a pretend thing for show?
 

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If you paid your dealer a setup fee, demand it be returned. That's some BS. Unless you were holding the clutch half engaged that whole 1xx miles, you didn't cause the failure. And like others have said, OEM is the way to go.
 

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I wonder if a set of stock clutch springs from a crf 150 R would add enough plate pressure to keep the fibers from burning and glazing over....I'll have to check into it and get back to everyone.
 

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I always had very good luck with Barnett clutch system. Used it on my 1987 YSR-50. I just bought a new OEM clutch system for my 99 Hayabusa just to be ready to replace it when my clutch goes out.

Barnett Tool & Engineering

Please check with your Honda dealer since I never heard of a clutch problem like yours, I've bought most of my motorcycles new and never had that type of clutch failure.

I have a 1999 Hayabusa which I ride like I stole it and it has 77,000 plus miles on it with the original clutch in it. I've always used Dino oil in all my motorcycles for the first 1000 miles than I switch over to full synthetic.
 

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Does the pressure plate have to be on the clutch to remove the castle nut? Trying to get mine off and the whole thing is turning inside the basket. I have a long ratchet on the opposite side to keep it from turning but won't break loose everything inside just turns on the stud.
 

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Does the pressure plate have to be on the clutch to remove the castle nut? Trying to get mine off and the whole thing is turning inside the basket. I have a long ratchet on the opposite side to keep it from turning but won't break loose everything inside just turns on the stud.
No, it doesn't. If you don't have a gear holder, just chock the rear wheel and throw it into 1st gear. That should hold the axle.

It is imperative, however, which is not mentioned in the service manual, that when reassembling the clutch basket, that the teeth of the pressure plate is interlocked properly with the grooves of the clutch center. It is easy to overlook.
 

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I removed the bearing from the pressure plate and held the other side w/ a ratchet and was able to get it off. I was only using 3 springs when I asked the question, had to put the other 3 in for it not to spin on me.
What teeth on the pressure plate?
 
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