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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey Guys,
Dropping in to start a new thread with the upgraded dyno to split up the data. I have learned a LOT over the years and this new dyno is full awesome features to get the most out of the builds. I am going to do my best to keep this updated each Friday/every other Friday. I am working on about half dozen different platforms right now so I get pretty busy to hit the forums daily. Running multiple screens on the dyno has become easy for me to drag and drop information as it comes in. This past spring I turned my hobby into a full time job and have been enjoying every minute. We purchased a Dynojet 250i and opened up shop in a small warehouse to be run by my girlfriend and I. Every sale we make goes straight into further development so we appreciate all your support thus far! I wanted to fill you in on an upcoming project. We recently picked up a brand new 2019 Honda Grom AND Monkey to do testing with from the ground up. We have already knocked out initial testing with the Honda Monkey however I haven't dove into the new Grom just yet. I have been slowly gathering up every intake, exhaust, camshaft, fuel management system, injectors, throttle bodies, etc. to do a giant test. A ground up build running through every stage I can possibly come up with. Pretty much anything I can get my hands on so we can start mix/matching data. The combinations are endless which is where you all come in, if you have a request, leave a comment! I also plan to offer an option where a customer can send me his specs, I build our shop grom to match and we set it up with a custom tune on the ECU of your choice. If any of you guys have products you would like third party tested lets throw them into the mix as well.
CJR Grom.jpg
I am at least another week or two out on diving into the project so I wanted to get a game plan going so we don't have to back track if possible. During the testing I will be using multiple fuel controllers, generally starting with the stock ECU and comparing ECU flashes to stand-alones and piggybacks. Common setup's I will create maps for and have a variety of free ones you can try on the website along with some setup guides to help you all out.
Current Test Parts -
Intake - Stock Airbox, Stock Filter, Modified Stock Filter, KOSO Filter, Dingerbuilt Short Ram, Dingerbuilt Mid-Length, DHM Velocity Stack, Chimera, Radiator Hose, KOSO Connecting tube 34mm tb, Chimera 34mm intake, Dingerbuilt Mid & Long 34mm
Throttle Body - Stock, Ported Stock, 26mm, 28mm, 30mm, 34mm, 37mm
ECU Testing - MCU Innovations Flash, Dynojet PV3, Power Commander V, aRacer RCM5, RC2, Bazzaz, Yuminashi, Finbro
Cylinder Head - Stock Head, Ported Stock Valve head, Finbro HR Head 27/23, DHM Race Head
Clutch Covers - Kitaco Cover + Takegawa Cover
Piston - OEM 125cc, Flat Top 125cc, DHM Dome 125cc, 131cc stock piston overbore, 143cc Takegawa, 147cc, 170cc, 186cc, and any others that pop up.
More to add soon.

We will also be working on some high output race spec builds on the other bikes as we get ready for the 2020 season!

Diving into the stock bike testing. From here, I have taken our brand new Honda Monkey and Grom from off the showroom floor, straight to the dyno room. We started both bikes with 3-4 full heat/cool down cycles. Let's start with the monkey, bring it up to temperature on the dyno and vary through rpm. We generally hold steady 3-5 seconds at a time to help allow the ecu learn the closed loop portion (under 80% TPS). Keep in mind, for your closed loop portion of the ECU to start learning, the oil temp must reach 54*C. The closed loop portion has a slight effect on the open loop as well. After final warm-up, we let the bike run up to the 5 miles on the odometer and made our first few passes. We followed up the next few passes at the 10 and 15 mile mark.
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We left the bike bone stock and took it for a 700 mile break-in of general everyday riding. Once back on the dyno, here was the results in comparison to before (red), current (blue) and then adding the Yoshimura RS3 Exhaust (green). This also allows us to run an O2 sensor from the exhaust bung for proper tuning. - From this data we can see over time the stock ECU as well as engine break-in was able to increase a bit of low end torque as well as mid-top end power.
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We went ahead and spent quite a few hours fine tuning the fuel and ignition map for the same build. Having thousands of dyno runs with the Honda Grom's, we have a bit of a head start finding the ignition advantages of this engine. However, although it is the same engine, we are finding some small changes due to the different modifications. Stock (Red) - Broken in, we'll use this as our baseline looking forward. Yoshimura RS3 with the Stock Airbox (Blue). Adding our CJR ECU Flash (Green).
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There isn't a TON on the table. However there is .3-.4hp through the top end and some low/mid range torque you can feel cruising through the gears. Next we added the MNNTHBX intake. I like this intake as it does create a strong low/mid range power due to the added length. Great for around town riding. This intake significantly improved top end as well. Below comparing blue (stock intake+RS3) to green (MTAKE+RS3). As we can see from the AFR table, the bike does lean out quite a bit from 6500+.
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After a few hours of dyno time, here was our final results.
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From here. The airbox is VERY restrictive just like the grom. We went ahead and created a tune for a chimera intake, later removed it to create another tune for the dingerbuilt intake as the week passed. We will get into airbox testing 1on1 at a later date. I would like the test to be on the same day to keep as many variables as consistent as possible as the dyno can vary day to day slightly. We have noticed a pattern with the length of the intake playing a role with where the torque shines. On the longer intakes, we see more low end/mid range power, sacrificing top end. Whereas with the shorter intakes and velocity stacks off the throttle body, make great top end but lack low end.
Next I added the DCR R2 Pro camshaft, sticking with the DB Intake. This was going to be for highway/back road testing so I really was not concerned with low/mid range thus aiming for the top end power intake. This DCR R2 "Pro" is not to be mistaken with the old DCR R2 which shared the same specs as the TB. The R2 Pro was released at a later date with revised lobes. Stock (red), DB intake, RS3, R2 Pro with stock ECU (blue), after a few hours of tuning.
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You can see the bike with the addition of the camshaft runs very rich down low and lean up top. We corrected the fueling across the board with impressive results from this combination.
Shortly after a local allowed me to tune his build - MNNTHBX intake, TB Camshaft, RS3 Exhaust. We started with the R2/DB/RS3 tune and corrected from there.
86057

We then added a baffle (the updated spark arrestor) on the same tune to see the change in performance. (orange) It hurt the mid-top end power quite a bit.
86058

Comparing the TB/Mnnthbx to the DCR/DB short although these are different bikes/different days -
86059
 

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Looking forward to reading updates.
 

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Looking forward to testing out new map in coming days

 

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Question.

Common setup's I will create maps for and have a variety of free ones you can try on the website along with some setup guides to help you all out.
Website details?

here is my setup. Do you have anything close? ECU presently flashed with PV3

Yoshi RS9 full exhaust
DynoJet PCV
DynoJet WBC2
DynoJet POD 300
DynoJet PV3
Finbro Ported Head with oversized valves
Finbro high compression 125cc piston
Koso upgraded cam tensioner
Koso high performance cam
Koso 35mm throttle body
Koso 35mm intake manifold
Koso 35mm airbox snorkel
Koso hi-flow air filter
PCX-150 injector
Kitaco Clutch Cover
Takegawa SUPER Oil Pump
Takegawa Crank Shaft Support Bearing Kit 4th bearing
EBC - CSK Series Clutch Springs
RP Billet Clutch Spring Plate
Stock 15/34
93 oct fuel only
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Couple updates to the thread, going to work on these the next few days. Have a few months worth of data to go over and get in order.
 
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