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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello Fellow Grommers,

I just had to replace my rear wheel yesterday, long story short, taking off and putting back on was no problem. The problem here is when I tighten my rear axle nut, its screws the adjustment up. The plates where the the adjustment nut sits pretty much falls and hangs when I tighten the axle nut. I am doing this while the Grom is on stands. What am I doing wrong? Rear axle nut too loose? Doing something in the wrong order? Please help, spent countless hours and looked at videos but no luck. Thanks!!!
 

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I loosen the axle,. then loosen the adjusters, tap in the axle and adjusters so its loose n the chai adjustment, then put some tension back on the axle nut. I then adjust the axle so its even distance on both sides ( I use a digital caliper), then turn each adjuster nut to the desired adjustment. I then tighten the axle fully, and then check the adjuster nuts . usually I have to tighten them in so they sit against the plates. as long as that amount is even, you are good to go. my .02
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you for the response and advice, I see that you are doing it by little by little. I just adjust the chain and tighten the rear axle nut. How loose is the rear axle nut suppose to be, like finger loose or sort of stiff? I am adjusting the chain when the axle nut is finger loose, is that the problem?
 

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You'll want the axle nut to be tighter than what you can do with your bare hands (fingers), but not snug by any means. That way it'll help hold the wheel in place while you work on the adjustments. Then tighten the axle nut and recheck your adjustments like m in sc said.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You'll want the axle nut to be tighter than what you can do with your bare hands (fingers), but not snug by any means. That way it'll help hold the wheel in place while you work on the adjustments. Then tighten the axle nut and recheck your adjustments like m in sc said.
Thank you, maybe that's why my alignment is all screwed up when I tighten the axle. By any chance you would know how loose the axle can be before I mess with the adjustment nut? I don't want to end up stripping any threads on the adjusters.
 

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One of these Motion Pro chain alignment tools are extremely helpful.

Chain Alignment Tool

This one of first specialized tools I bought for my motorcycles and still use it decades later. You will want to remove the rear hugger to get a better view of the alignment on the Grom.
 

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I tend to do the follwing. Set chain tension how you want with axle loose but snug enough so that things dont flop around, then when it comes to tighten the axle nut take an insulated screwdriver or wooden dowel and throw it in between the chain n rear sprocket and rotate the rear tire to clamp the object between the chain n rear sprocket, this takes all the slack up in the chain, pulls the rear axle TIGHT against the rear adjusters, and allows you to tighten the rear axle without having anything move around on ya.

Then once the axle is properly tight, snug the adjusters, lock them in place, n call it good. (obviously move the dowel / screwdriver out of the sprocket n chain) and check chain slack.
 

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I tend to do the follwing. Set chain tension how you want with axle loose but snug enough so that things dont flop around, then when it comes to tighten the axle nut take an insulated screwdriver or wooden dowel and throw it in between the chain n rear sprocket and rotate the rear tire to clamp the object between the chain n rear sprocket, this takes all the slack up in the chain, pulls the rear axle TIGHT against the rear adjusters, and allows you to tighten the rear axle without having anything move around on ya.

Then once the axle is properly tight, snug the adjusters, lock them in place, n call it good. (obviously move the dowel / screwdriver out of the sprocket n chain) and check chain slack.
Great advice.

I saw a YouTube video showing this technique a while back and it's exactly how I do it. A small allen wrench in between the chain/sprocket, turned to the 3 o'clock position, is sufficient to snug the whole wheel assembly towards the adjustment screws.

Ciao.
 

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Great advice.

I saw a YouTube video showing this technique a while back and it's exactly how I do it. A small allen wrench in between the chain/sprocket, turned to the 3 o'clock position, is sufficient to snug the whole wheel assembly towards the adjustment screws.

Ciao.

yup. I just like using a plastic insulated screw driver / small woden dowel / wooden pencil as it is softer than the chain or sprocket to now mar them up.
 

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Something I like to do is to slack the axle and get the adjuster to where it seems ideal. Then, I snug the axle to the point of where you can't move the wheel out of adjustment without really pushing. Then, the real trick is to use two ratchets, I like to keel them both point rear, and then simultaneously tighten both at the same time, about a quarter turn at a time. This helps to equally tighten in the axle from both sides, minimizing the amount the wheel will move out of adjustment. If the adjuster starts to slacken, I whack the axle with a block of wood or a rubber mallet until it is tight again. And repeat. Axle spools help give you a bigger target to whack. And although typically you want to hold the bolt stationary, and only tighten the nut, this method really helps keep things true and the it is the tightening of only one side that tends throw it out of spec. And I always set the tension on the chain a little on the tight side as it always opens up after the first ride around the block.
 

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Always do chain adjustments on the side stand, When I check the slack I sit on the bike backwards so I can just reach down and check,On my 2020 the chain is always tighter after I tighten the axel, so now I leave the chain with about 1" of play before tightening the axel...Hope that helps ya..
 
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