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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone else bottom out the front shock? Any ways to improve the rebound or firm it up to my riding style?
 

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I bottom mine out at least once every time I ride.
 

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Constantly. Any bump bigger than a pack of cigarettes with any speed at all bottoms them out. It makes it hard to really do hoodrat shit through the city when jumping up curbs smacks you against mechanical bottom of the forks. It sucks. Thicker oil and stiffer springs are definitely in order.

And dude, You're giving up a ton of control by pulling the clutch before/as you enter a turn. You can apply brake with the bike in gear and still scrub off all the speed you need to navigate safely. Only pull the clutch when you plan on coming to a full stop, taking off, or shifting.(Edit: And whoolies.) I was cringing watching you do that in your video.
 

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Constantly. Any bump bigger than a pack of cigarettes with any speed at all bottoms them out. It makes it hard to really do hoodrat shit through the city when jumping up curbs smacks you against mechanical bottom of the forks. It sucks. Thicker oil and stiffer springs are definitely in order.

And dude, You're giving up a ton of control by pulling the clutch before/as you enter a turn. You can apply brake with the bike in gear and still scrub off all the speed you need to navigate safely. Only pull the clutch when you plan on coming to a full stop, taking off, or shifting.(Edit: And whoolies.) I was cringing watching you do that in your video.
I was going to say you're an idiot..... Thought he was engine braking into the turn along with the rear/front. I was wrong after watching and have no idea why you would do that in a turn on a grom.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I was going to say you're an idiot..... Thought he was engine braking into the turn along with the rear/front. I was wrong after watching and have no idea why you would do that in a turn on a grom.
Thanks for the tips.. working on the turns.. and shifting in general
 

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standard fork oil is 5w, my dealer just changed mine after a lot of uk folk complaining they are too soft so told dealers under warranty they can change the oil to 10w, WHAT A DIFFERENCE! no more saggy pogoing springs, no more brown trousers on the bends it actually holds the road a lot better now, see your dealers and complain, then you should get the same fixes unless you do it yourself, I am 220lbs without my bike clothing on, it is now night and day better and stiffer!
 

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And dude, You're giving up a ton of control by pulling the clutch before/as you enter a turn. You can apply brake with the bike in gear and still scrub off all the speed you need to navigate safely. Only pull the clutch when you plan on coming to a full stop, taking off, or shifting.
Very sound advice....I didn't say it, but I thought it. Besides I get paid to give out advice like that :wink: Seriously though, if there is an MSF class anywhere near you, do yourself a favor and spend a weekend doing the Basic Ridercourse. If it's taught right it will increase your confidence immeasurably and help you avoid a lot of the common pitfalls that assist people in hurting themselves.
 

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so much critics... lol... i wish i had some roads like that by my house. shit looks fun. soon one of my friend will have thiers. and i want to do some twisties. how is your gopro mounted? which gopro? like that pov.
 

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standard fork oil is 5w, my dealer just changed mine after a lot of uk folk complaining they are too soft so told dealers under warranty they can change the oil to 10w, WHAT A DIFFERENCE! no more saggy pogoing springs, no more brown trousers on the bends it actually holds the road a lot better now, see your dealers and complain, then you should get the same fixes unless you do it yourself, I am 220lbs without my bike clothing on, it is now night and day better and stiffer!
Wondering about that over on the correct side of the pond too. Though it won't help the static load, only the suspension cycling.
I figure my fork springs need ~25% stiffer to get a decent static sag.
 
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