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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been screwing with my grom a little and I have noticed all the bolts are torqued to over 2 times what's in the manual . The front axle on my bike was torqued to over 100 ft lb , this will make the front wheel bearings wear out pre maturely . The front wheel torque is 40 ft lb and the rear is 44 , the front brake caliper is 22 and the fork pinch bolts on the triple trees are 20. I hope these torque values are a help to everyone . Also the front and rear axle have NO grease on them . Pretty typical for a Honda
 

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I could be wrong but I dont think a tq wrench works accurately in reverse. Also I dont think the axles need greese I think the bearings need grease. But like I said I could be wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
well , the torque wrench does work in reverse when its a snap on needle style ,(what I used ) and an axel does need grease , unless you want to beat it out with a hammer in 5k miles( water will cause the clear zinc to corrode on the axel ) . I use to work as a mechanic at a honda dealership so I do know what I am talking about . Honda usually uses very little to no grease , Yamaha on the other hand isn't as cheap with the grease .
 

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Clicker type torque wrenches do not read the same either direction. Only a beam or dial type is reversible.

One way Snap-On prevents this is by installing a ratchet head with no reverse selector.
 

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The front axle on my bike was torqued to over 100 ft lb , this will make the front wheel bearings wear out prematurely . The front wheel torque is 40 ft lb and the rear is 44 , the front brake caliper is 22 and the fork pinch bolts on the triple trees are 20.
Either someone put your axles in with an impact gun or you're reading the amount of torque necessary to overcome the static coefficient of friction when pulling it apart.

Torque values are set via the dynamic coefficient. That's why stopping in the middle of torque procedure to reposition the wrench/ratchet can give a false value.
 

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I had to use a 1/2" drive two foot long breaker bar to get my shock bolts out. And I had to muscle it.

I can believe what the OP is saying. I had an FZ1 new and EVERYTHING was loctited and torqued WAY over spec. It was a total bitch doing any work at all.

Its a liability thing. One bike has one bolt that comes off and somebody gets hurt and sues.

So guess what those nuts and bolts get the stuff torqued out of them from the factory.
 

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Only a beam or dial type is reversible.

.
This^ had to do this before when working on cars.
When I installed the belly pan on my grom, I remember the little 6mm bolts where on super tight.
 

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Anyone kno what these should be torqued down to?? Just did some mods and jus wanna make sure were all good. This will help us all


HANDLEBARS (4)-??
HEADER BOLTS(2)-??
OIL DRAIN PLUG-




if anymore should be added that aren't in this thread, feel free to add to it.

Thanks in advance
 

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TORQUE VALUESSTANDARD TORQUE VALUES
ENGINE & FRAME TORQUE VALUES

  • Torque specifications listed below are for important fasteners.
  • Others should be tightened to standard torque values listed above.
    BODY PANELS/EXHAUST SYSTEM


FASTENER TYPE


TORQUEN·m (kgf·m, lbf·ft)


FASTENER TYPE


TORQUEN·m (kgf·m, lbf·ft)


5 mm bolt and nut
6 mm bolt and nut(Include SH flange bolt)

8 mm bolt and nut10 mm bolt and nut12 mm bolt and nut


5.2 (0.5, 3.8)10 (1.0, 7)
22 (2.2, 16)34 (3.5, 25)54 (5.5, 40)


5 mm screw
6 mm screw
6 mm flange bolt
(Include NSHF) and nut
8 mm flange bolt and nut10 mm flange bolt and nut



4.2 (0.4, 3.1)9.0 (0.9, 6.6)12 (1.2, 9)
27 (2.8, 20)39 (4.0, 29)


ITEM


Q'TY


THREADDIA. (mm)


TORQUEN·m (kgf·m, lbf·ft)


REMARKS


Body cover and tailcover mounting screw


4


4


0.9 (0.1, 0.7)


Exhaust pipe cover bolt


2


6


14 (1.4, 10)


Exhaust pipe mounting nut


2


8


27 (2.8, 20)


Exhaust pipe mounting bolt


1


8


27 (2.8, 20)


Exhaust pipe stud bolt


2


8





See page 2-10


Front fender mounting bolt


6


6


12 (1.2, 9)


Front cowl mounting bolt


4


6


12 (1.2, 9)


Muffler band bolt


1


8


20 (2.0, 15)


Muffler mounting bolt


1


8


27 (2.8, 20)


Muffler mounting nut


1


8


27 (2.8, 20)


Muffler protector bolt


1


6


14 (1.4, 10)


Rear fender stay bolt


2


8


31 (3.2, 23)


Seat lock bracket bolt


2


6


14 (1.4, 10)


Shroud screw


3


5


4.2 (0.4, 3.1)


Shroud tapping screw


20


4


0.9 (0.1, 0.7)


Sidestand lock nut


1


10


30 (3.1, 22)


U-nut


Sidestand pivot bolt


1


10


10 (1.0, 7)


Sidestand switch bolt


1


6


10 (1.0, 7)


ALOC bolt; replacewith a new one.


MAINTENANCE
PGM-FI SYSTEM


ITEM


Q'TY


THREADDIA. (mm)


TORQUEN·m (kgf·m, lbf·ft)


REMARKS


Air cleaner cover screw


8


5


1.1 (0.1,0.8)


Air cleaner element screw


1


5


1.1 (0.1,0.8)


Spark plug


1


10


16 (1.6, 12)


Crankshaft hole cap


1


30


8.0 (0.8, 5.9)


Oil drain bolt


1


12


24 (2.4, 18)


ITEM


Q'TY


THREADDIA. (mm)


TORQUEN·m (kgf·m, lbf·ft)


REMARKS


Bank angle sensor mounting nut


2


6


10 (1.0, 7)


Fuel injector joint mounting bolt


2


5


12 (1.2, 9)


EOT sensor


1


10


14.5 (1.5, 11)


Apply engine oil to thethreads and seatingsurface.


O2 sensor


1


12


24.5 (2.5, 18)





GENERAL INFORMATION


LUBRICATION SYSTEM
FUEL SYSTEM
ENGINE REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
CYLINDER HEAD/VALVES


ITEM


Q'TY


THREADDIA. (mm)


TORQUEN·m (kgf·m, lbf·ft)


REMARKS


Oil centrifugal filter cover bolt


3


6


12 (1.2, 9)


Apply locking agent tothe threads.


Oil pump assembly bolt


2


5


5.2 (0.5, 3.8)


ITEM


Q'TY


THREADDIA. (mm)


TORQUEN·m (kgf·m, lbf·ft)


REMARKS


Fuel filter stay nut


2


6


12 (1.2, 9)


For tighteningsequence See page7-5


Fuel pump setting plate nut


2


6


12 (1.2, 9)


Fuel pump setting plate special nut


2


6


12 (1.2, 9)


Throttle cable stay screw


1


5


3.4 (0.3, 2.5)


Connecting hose band screw


1


4


1.5 (0.2, 1.1)


ITEM


Q'TY


THREADDIA. (mm)


TORQUEN·m (kgf·m, lbf·ft)


REMARKS


Engine hanger nut


(upper)


1


10


54 (5.5, 40)


(lower)


1


10


54 (5.5, 40)


(front)


1


10


54 (5.5, 40)


Drive sprocket fixing plate bolt


2


6


12 (1.2, 9)


Step holder mounting bolt


2


8


31 (3.2, 23)


ITEM


Q'TY


THREADDIA. (mm)


TORQUEN·m (kgf·m, lbf·ft)


REMARKS


Cylinder head cap bolt


4


8


24 (2.4, 18)


Apply engine oil to thethreads and seatingsurface.


Cam sprocket bolt


1


8


27 (2.8, 20)


Apply engine oil to thethreads and seatingsurface.


Tappet adjust nut


2


5


9.0 (0.9, 6.6)


Apply engine oil to thethreads and seatingsurface.


Cam chain tensioner sealing bolt


1


14


22 (2.2, 16)


Cam chain tensioner arm pivot bolt


1


8


16 (1.6, 12)


Cam chain guide lower roller pivot bolt


1


6


10 (1.0, 7)


Timing hole cap


1


14


6.0 (0.6, 4.4)


Crankshaft hole cap


1


30


8.0 (0.8, 5.9)


CYLINDER/PISTON
CLUTCH/GEARSHIFT LINKAGE


ITEM


Q'TY


THREADDIA. (mm)


TORQUEN·m (kgf·m, lbf·ft)


REMARKS


Cam chain guide roller pin bolt


1


8


10 (1.0, 7)


Cylinder stud bolt


4


8





See page 10-7


ITEM


Q'TY


THREADDIA. (mm)


TORQUEN·m (kgf·m, lbf·ft)


REMARKS


Clutch center lock nut


1


14


64 (6.5, 47)


Apply engine oil to thethreads and seatingsurface.


Clutch lifter plate bolt


3


6


12 (1.2, 9)


Gearshift cam plate socket bolt


1


6


10 (1.0, 7)


Apply locking agent tothe threads.


Gearshift return spring pin


1


8


30 (3.1, 22)


Oil filter rotor lock nut


1


14


64 (6.5, 47)


Apply engine oil to thethreads and seatingsurface.


Right crankcase cover protector bolt


3


6


12 (1.2, 9)


Shift drum stopper arm bolt


1


6


12 (1.2, 9)


Apply locking agent tothe threads.


 

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well , the torque wrench does work in reverse when its a snap on needle style ,(what I used ) I use to work as a mechanic at a honda dealership so I do know what I am talking about .
If we're playing the "appeal to authority" game, I have a degree in automotive engineering and another in physics, and I think you're wrong.

You can't even get close to telling what the bolt was torqued to by putting a wrench on and going backwards because there is static friction and often a small amount of corrosion between the shoulder of the nut and the surface it is pressed against. An assembly line typically uses those really expensive drivers that torque things exactly where they need to be and require basically no skill to use correctly, which is good because the people assembling things don't have any skill as you can see by looking at the welds.

That said, yes the axles should be removed and greased lightly anyways.
 

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awesome,thanks for that info. is this for our groms??
 
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