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Discussion Starter #21
@Ghostrider.1127 Schweet, that's what I have. Any suggestions on break in oil? Just thought about this, been super busy and distracted. I'll probably just use cheap synthetic oil for 30-50 miles then swap it out for the 7100.
 

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I believe you want a mineral oil for break in
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I saw that earlier, dunno how I feel about it.....
Motul makes a mineral break in oil and I love that brand but my gut doesn't like the fact that it's not petroleum based......

I was thinking Castrol GO! 4t 10w40 cause it's cheap and local. Going to let it warm up at idle, cool off, warm up again and then put 20 miles of half cruising and half WOT while engine breaking to a full stop. Then change to Motul 4t for 100 miles and then another oil change to finish the break in.

I'm going to run her very hard so I've seen on several forums that it should break in somewhat hard.
 

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I saw that earlier, dunno how I feel about it.....
Motul makes a mineral break in oil and I love that brand but my gut doesn't like the fact that it's not petroleum based......

I was thinking Castrol GO! 4t 10w40 cause it's cheap and local. Going to let it warm up at idle, cool off, warm up again and then put 20 miles of half cruising and half WOT while engine breaking to a full stop. Then change to Motul 4t for 100 miles and then another oil change to finish the break in.

I'm going to run her very hard so I've seen on several forums that it should break in somewhat hard.
I wouldn't be too concerned with oil so long as it meets or exceeds spec per Honda.

A few full temperature warm ups in the garage with some revving and make sure no leaks or engine running issues are found and then go take it out for some short runs making sure everything functions properly.

Once you know that the transmission and clutch are good and you don't have any leaks then go rip on it when it is warmed up.

Don't lug it, maybe add some octane booster to avoid detonation, build some pressure in the cylinder. Up and down hills are a great way to do this. They say deceleration provides necessary pressure to seat the rings also.

Run up a hill, then run down using a lot of engine braking, let fully cool and repeat a few times.

When my next build is done I'm taking it to the dyno to let them break it in.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Okay, got the bottom end fully assembled and it all went smoothly. Painted the jug too, I just couldn't handle it being raw aluminum and it turned out great!! Also found out that my auto tune is burned up, the previous owner failed to mention that so that's the next purchase.

Till then, I need to grind the piston rings, lap the valves, adjust the rockers and clean the hell out of everything, then it'll be ready for the first start!!!!

I'm stoked to say the least.......
89152
 

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Discussion Starter #26
It started! Pretty much immediately. Smoked a little for about 3 seconds as the assembly lube burned off but she sounds fantastic. Gotta clean up my mess, install the exhaust and then do its first heat cycle.

Oh yea, went ahead and ordered a new auto tune, looking forward to seeing what changes it makes as I'm not confident of the previous builder's engine building and tuning capabilities.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Update, got the new auto tune installed, gave it 40 per trim application and it tuned itself pretty fast. Runs fantastic so far, still breaking it in. Small increase in hp but very noticeable gain in torque. Next I need more injector and flow all around. Any idea how far you can bore the stock intake and TB?

The takegawa crank support is way better than the koso, FYI....
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Went bananas on this guy today with a dremel, was in the process of polishing when the tool finally bit the dust after 10 or so years of abuse, lol. It owes me nothing. Opened it up to about 26mm all the way through but she's still thirsty af, I need to pull the head off and finish the intake port. Oh, and an injector. Oh, and an upgraded fuel line. And high volume pump. And a 4 valve head..... and a cam..... does it ever end? I think I like working on it as much as riding it. 🤣

Any suggestions on an injector? Koso? Pointless without the upgraded fuel line?
Has anyone ever tried modifying the stock injector? Made your own fuel line?

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I am using a pcx150 injector, it is an oem Honda part. I got mine from Cameron Jones Racing.
 
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Discussion Starter #31
And I'm assuming it flows a good bit more than the stock injector? I've seen it before, it's considerably cheaper than the koso. Can the stock fuel system keep up with it? Like, 186cc's worth?
 

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And I'm assuming it flows a good bit more than the stock injector? I've seen it before, it's considerably cheaper than the koso. Can the stock fuel system keep up with it? Like, 186cc's worth?
DynoJet told me(the tech at the shop tuning mine on their dyno who owns two and has tuned all of the Groms) that the stock fuel injector can handle big bore just fine if it has stock porting/valves/throttle body.

The head is the major power restrictor and even if you go with a bigger piston the bike is still trying to breathe through the tiny straws of the stock ports.

When I brought my 181 with cam, intake, exhaust, he said I didn't need the PCX injector but was glad I had it so they could collect some baseline tuning data.
 

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Good info here.
 

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Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
Well, that puts my mind at ease. The bike is running great with the exception that the 186cc kit is only making more power down below, it seems to drop off around 6,000, feels like the 170cc, and pops a little bit. Without being able to ride it and know my AFR and duty cycle in the process, my subconscious freaks out and assumes I'm lean. contrary to popular belief, I'm not a big fan of holes and pistons. I tried fresh premium gas, and octane booster, and a slightly colder plug (that was all they had in stock at my local parts store) but it's still breaks up a little bit past 6k. What are the odds that I'm running lean?

I should probably add the fact the the head has been slightly ported, most of the work is at the entrance, and the throat opened up to 25mm along with the entire intake from filter to head.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Anyone have an opinion on the Gojin HD 5 disc clutch kit?

And would the Motul 4T with Ester and MA2 make my clutch slip?
 

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Anyone have an opinion on the Gojin HD 5 disc clutch kit?

And would the Motul 4T with Ester and MA2 make my clutch slip?
I use Motul 5-30 full synthetic. After watching some legitimate testing on oils from a youtube channel called Project Farm I'm switching to Amsoil next. Always thought it was gimmick/pyramid scheme products but it tests at the top for motor oils.

For the clutch, you really just need some stiffer springs.

I abused the heck out of my stock clutch off roading in the desert. A lot of slipping to get going on the side of hills, amongst big rocks, etc. It showed almost no wear.

I went with a Barnett Kevlar kit but they are kind of grabby but their springs are 10% stiffer than stock and they don't feel overly stiff and they hook great. None of that stock spring slip and bog.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
She already has stiffer springs, half of them are pink and the other half are blue. I'm pretty sure the disc are stock though and have had a very hard life. The Gojin kit is only $35, comes with all plates and stiffer springs. The budget is getting pretty tight so I'll have to upgrade the clutch later. The hydraulic clutch makes it pretty easy so I'm not too worried about stiffness.

I have also seen a few of project farms videos and I was aware of amsol before, I should probably make the switch too
 
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