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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Update: 3 Grom Builds. Blaze Yellow/blk, Pink/blk, KOSO BBK

Updated 5/9/17
Alright, 3 Builds. One Thread.

My Bike - Blaze Yellow/Black Grom (Stunt)
A bike I can commute, stunt, road race, mx., little bit of everything kind of bike. (now solely a stunt bike 5/9/17) I'll be updating my input in for the majority of what I install and test so feel free to ask questions.
Current odometer (2/23/2017 - 11,600mi) error on last update
Mods-
KOSO 170cc 2v (Jones Honda) (currently back to stock piston/bore)
KOSO 34mm Throttle Body (Jones Honda)
KOSO 34-30.5mm Intake Manifold (Jones Honda)
KOSO bigger connecting tube/intake tube (Jones Honda)
KOSO Camshaft (Jones Honda)
Finbro Big valve Head with intake side port matched to koso intake manifold (finbro garage)
Finbro ECU (Perfect Stranger Designs)
PCX injector
Forza 300 fuel line
KOSO AFR Gauge (Jones Honda)
Kitaco Cover (Hard Racing)
Takegawa Super Oil Pump (Hard Racing)
Intake Mod (Jones Honda)
KOSO Hurricane Filter (Jones Honda)
Power Pures Front and Rear (120 & 130) (recently swapped to a dunlop tt93 front with vee-rubber rear for stunt riding) (Jones Honda)
Magura HC1 Handbrake (Jones Honda)
Brembo P34 caliper (Perfect Stranger Designs)
PSD Subcage (Perfect Stranger Designs)
PSD dual caliper bracket (Perfect Stranger Designs)
Exhaust - Black DG Low Mount (Have had quite a bit of experience with Yoshimura, Akrapovic, DG, FMF, and DKS) (Jones Honda)
Goodrich Stainless Front Brake lines (Jones Honda)
Goodrich Stainless Rear Brake Lines (have but not installed) (Jones Honda)
EBC HH front and rear Pads (Jones Honda)
EBC Contour Rotor (Jones Honda)
Pro taper Pillow Tops (Jones Honda)
Pro taper KX High bend fat bars (Jones Honda)
Pro taper universal risers (Jones Honda)
Slim style Left Hand Control Switch (Jones Honda)
EBC Clutch springs (Jones Honda) Need to get some that are stiffer though.
Euro Spec Headlight (Steady Garage)
LED Flasher Relay (Steady Garage)
Oil Decompression cap (Steady Garage)
Dual Catch Can, fittings, and oil hose - (harbor freight + O'reillys)
Fulmer LED light kit (Jones Honda)
Plastics and wheels dipped as well, soon to be powder coated.


2017 Honda Grom (race) 12.20hp
Emgo Drag Bars (Jones Honda)
ROX risers (Jones Honda)
Motion Pro Rev2 Throttle (Jones Honda)
Flushmount front signals (Jones Honda)
Dunlop tt93 tires (Jones Honda)
2015 wheels (weighed the front alone at 2lbs heavier, didn't get a chance to weigh the rear, I have heard it's 1lb per wheel difference?)
RK Chain (Jones Honda)
Superlite Sprocket (Jones Honda)
PSD Chain adjusters (Jones Honda)
Galfer Lightweight front and rear rotor (Jones Honda)
Galfer pads (Jones Honda)
Galfer front and rear stainless lines (Jones Honda)
Yoshimura RS2 exhaust (now FMF) (Jones Honda)
Dinger Built Intake
Evap delete, tail fender delete, signal delete
Pro Grip "soft touch superbike" grips (Jones Honda)


Pink & Black Grom (17.5hp)
-KOSO Camshaft
-DG R-Series Low Mount Exhaust
-Intake mod with lid removed
-Finbro Big Valve Head port matched to koso tb
-KOSO 170 big bore
-KOSO 34mm Throttle Body
-KOSO 34-30.5mm intake manifold
-Finbro ECU + PSD Cold Fix + PCX injector
-16t JT Front Sprocket
-Tyga Tail Kit
-Hot Bodies Front Turn Signals
-Competition werkes taillight
-Pro Taper KX high Handlebars
-Pro taper universal risers
-Pro Taper Neon Pink Grips
-Pink Vinyl Wrap
-Stainless front line
-EBC Contour rotor
-EBC HH front pads

The Shop Grom (parted out and sold) 23.5hp
- Mini 3 Handlebar bracket - 0 miles
- Mini 3 AFR Gauge - 0 miles
- Tyga X-Tail Kit - 0 miles
- DG Silver Low Mount v1 Exhaust
- KOSO Camshaft
- EBC Clutch Springs
- KOSO Camshaft
- KOSO 170cc Big Bore Kit
- KOSO 4v Head
- KOSO 34mm Throttle Body
- KOSO Intake Manifold
- KOSO Hurricane Filter
- KOSO Connecting Tube
- KOSO Rubber Intake
- PCX150 Injector
- Aracer Standalone RC1 Super
- Aracer AF1 module

Our shop grom has since been put back to stock.

Some before and after shots of mine. More updates to come

13248403_10153437060426755_4116536547424640391_o.jpg 13268430_10153437060771755_6778362305081817464_o.jpg 11222457_10152971870481755_4182265522306875662_n.jpg 11825796_10152971870501755_5763397683423477145_n.jpg 11986315_10152971870556755_3834875180506431486_n.jpg 12107804_10153029213911755_5500500064642033972_n.jpg 12140872_10153026690841755_4800311137895356452_o.jpg 12068727_10153004205781755_5595333505870487621_o.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yup, just snap a picture of what you want with shipping price to you address
 

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Discussion Starter #5
And here's my gf's grom
12079419_10153027856226755_5168425944490167197_n.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Update on the pink bike. DG low mount exhaust and newly added KOSO cam. The cam wasn't a huge difference but enough so it can now be clutched up in second gear with stock gearing/stock tune. Around 6500-6700 the bike starts to pull a little harder. Mild, but noticable. Not as big of a difference as the exhaust has made. Her bike will be getting the KOSO 170cc BBK next and eventually the 4V head. Mine will be doing the entire package at once.
Update on the black bike. Flipping the DKS subcage around for a little more room. 50 stunt Axle sliders as a birthday present from the little lady.

Edit: after the bike had a few hundred miles the cam became much more noticeable on the top end.
 

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Did you tune for the cam? That and PC5 are my most immediate next steps.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Did you tune for the cam? That and PC5 are my most immediate next steps.
nah no tune was required, I have a buddy getting one put in his next week. I've been talking with them back and forth quite a bit and seems like none of their kits require a tune. We'll definitely get my gf's tuned down the road but mine may just run a gauge setup. If it shows anything out of the norm I'll get it tuned then
 

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Discussion Starter #10
North of jeff city
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Bump, updated the thread as there has been a few changes. Excited to get started on our shop bike.
 

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hey, i'm looking for some help and was wondering if you could assist. I've never really rode before so the bike im going to be getting is a grom since it's entry lever I guess. i'm not to concerned about changing anything right off hand when I get it but in about a month or say I may change some things. I'm not to concerned about it stock speed but I do want it to go faster eventually. but I do want to stunt as well. I know what all I should get for stunting because I've talked to a stunter who helped me there but he didn't go over everything I need for stunting. so my questions are, whats the fastest you got your grom to go and what all mods did u use for that? also, what do you use for stunting? i'm very new to this bike stuff so I know next to nothing and am looking for some help
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
hey, i'm looking for some help and was wondering if you could assist. I've never really rode before so the bike im going to be getting is a grom since it's entry lever I guess. i'm not to concerned about changing anything right off hand when I get it but in about a month or say I may change some things. I'm not to concerned about it stock speed but I do want it to go faster eventually. but I do want to stunt as well. I know what all I should get for stunting because I've talked to a stunter who helped me there but he didn't go over everything I need for stunting. so my questions are, whats the fastest you got your grom to go and what all mods did u use for that? also, what do you use for stunting? i'm very new to this bike stuff so I know next to nothing and am looking for some help
long answer-
-First thing, get an RSC lever. Lifetime warranty it'll be the last lever you ever buy, I've had mine for 3-4 years now. Even if it breaks they cover it, works on almost any bike. If stunting is priority over speed, a -1 front sprocket goes a long way. Even a -1 front +3 or 4 rear is even better. I rode with a -1 front +11 rear and it taught me slow wheelies pretty quick. After that it's a lot at once but worth it. Next do the handbrake, subcage, and exhaust.
If speed is priority then how fast do you need to go? For me, I commute 10 miles to work and 10 miles home. The plan for my bike is to be able to run bone stock gearing while being able to clutch up second in a wide range of rpm with no problem yet run 70 pretty consistently. My buddy has clip-on bars, pcv (rpm raised), wb2, full system yoshi, chimera intake, kitaco cover, stock gearing and can run 76 on the limiter with full tuck in a draft. Not easy, but doable. The power is extremely noticeable over stock and all around smoother. A similar setup is what I'm going for until big bore.
-Speed after 60 really depends on aero and weight from what we have found. There's quite a few of us and we've noticed a gain getting rid of the shrouds, wearing gym shorts vs jeans, shirts vs jackets, getting rid of the mirrors and stock rear fender have also been noticeable consistent gains of 1-2mph. Weight is another huge factor. My gf has a 40lbs advantage over me and it shows a few mph consistently when we hit backroads. Exhaust wise it seems as long as you get rid of the stock headpipe with a decent company you will see consistent 2-3mph gains with more midrange and top end. My DKS low mount exhaust much worse than the full system akrapovic i was running. I feel the DKS is even with or a little worse than the stock exhaust performance wise. However, for the summer I was doing lot stunt riding and a cheap $60 exhaust was perfect. My gf hit the deck about 4 times and scraped it up so it did its job. This year I plan to do more streets and racing so I am converting over to a quality low mount to keep my subcage.


-Exhaust wise, I've tested quite a bit of the market (akrapovic, yoshi, dks, two brothers, fmf, hmf, comp werkes, DG and more)
Like I said as long as you get rid of the stock head pipe and allow a bit more flow there seems to be gains. Performance wise they are all very similar with a full system. About a 10% gain.
KOSO cam I've been pretty happy with for $100 and half hour labor. Gave it a bit more noticeable top end. Especially when shifting wheelies you feel it the most. The mid range and top end has more pull to catch the bike if it falls too low where as before you had to have the wheelie pretty high to shift.

To answer your question
-Grom speed from my experience of a few dozen different groms. Most brand new to being broken in.
-6ft 160llbs 800ft above sea level. normal light riding jacket and jeans mild to no winds-
-Broken in grom seems to run a little stronger on the top end. few mph.
-Stock grom sitting upright 55-57mph
-Stock grom full tuck 63-65mph (takes a little while but it'll creep up there)
-Stock grom full tuck drafting another bike or vehicle 68-71 is achievable quite often after awhile just takes awhile. 73 on occasion.
-Drafting can literally suck you from 62-63 mph up to 70 pretty quick even from a distance which is what makes these so fun on back roads with a bunch of them.
-Add exhaust and take every one of those numbers then add 2-3mph. Stock pipe is quite restrictive.
-PC5 lets you raise the limiter, gain performance, as well as smooth out the power delivery.
-Kitaco cover will take rotating mass off the crankshaft allowing the bike to rev much quicker.

What to get to stunt
-Stock handlebars I stunted on for a little while but now that I'm running mx bars I could never go back. One of the first mods I recommend with the RSC lever.
-Front stainless line makes long stoppies much more consistent.
-There are about 2 main routes for handbrake and subcage. Cheap and expensive. Cheap works good for getting into stunt riding but eventually you may want more feel and bite with the cheap handbrake.
-Shy away from junction valves.
-Dark knight street offers a handbrake kit for about 300 shipped to the US. Includes a handbrake, master cylinder, caliper, stainless line, and caliper mount. Everything you need. It kept me busy riding almost every day for about 4-5 months. After that I found myself needing a little more.
-Perfect stranger designs (PSD) and NDC are probably the more common ones. Add a magura or brembo master, brembo caliper, stainless line, mount and you're looking into the 600-700+ range. For me I went with DKS/Racing boy kit and plan to upgrade my master and calipers to brembos while using their mount. I've had good luck with the DKS bracket and plan to go to their three caliper setup soon.
-Axle sliders are nice. 50 per front and 50 per rear. Sometimes they have promo's going. Only get 50-stunt. Had the LOK ones and they suck.
-Rear sub-Cage price will vary but heres some companies to look into-
DKS 70-100+
Happy Tanks 150ish
Zeus 225 subcage and 160 for the 12 bar
Kevtek no idea
PSD and NDC i'm pretty sure are in the 400 range. But both have adjustable options. I've ridden both of these and love them.

Surely I'm missing some things but will add if I need to
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Update 4/21/16
Added a PCV and Kitaco cover around Jan/Feb. Both installed easily. PCV was a minor gain as far as really making more power, it did however make the the power delivery a bit smoother across the board. With the DG exhaust I found the yoshi map worked best with it. The two brothers map gave some strange hiccups in the mid to top end rpm.

Later on added a KOSO camshaft with an 11k limiter on the PCV (originally thought I could adjust it back with the software to 10-10.5k but that's not the case so I'll have to get that dialed down after awhile). Was down in texas and hit 86mph on an extremely long/steep downhill! I've never even seen above 75-76 on that bike prior to that. Drafted my buddy half way down the hill I passed him showing 80. Had no idea just how high it was going to go so I stayed in it to the bottom. My gearing is 16/37 currently so I estimate about 82-83mph.

A week later I added a KOSO 170cc big bore to my grom. Currently only using only a PCV with plans to add an autotune down the road. It really transforms the bike into being much more streetable. Best way to describe it is like comparing a 250f and 450f (Not the power just the riding style.) The 250 likes to like to scream a bit more and hang out on the top end whereas the 450 builds the majority of its power in the bottom end and dies off on the top. I find myself short shifting around 6-7k rpm now. It has a ton of usable tq now, getting to 50-60mph is nothing. The first 50 miles there wasn't much top end, would pull strong to about 7500 and completely fade off. Used it as a daily, 8-9mi at 30-55mph and about 3 mi at 70mph to and from work. With about 150mi on it now the bike has really opened up. The top end pulls strong, has very little to no backfire on decel and no hesitations anywhere. I can clutch up second gear no problem, clutch 3rd up on the back pegs, and run 70 on the highway sitting upright. Circle wheelies are a piece of cake now with more bottom end grunt I'm finding it much harder to stall. Let me know if you have any questions!
 

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Later on added a KOSO camshaft with an 11k limiter on the PCV (originally thought I could adjust it back with the software to 10-10.5k but that's not the case so I'll have to get that dialed down after awhile).
So once you increase the rev limit (after filling out the paperwork and everything), you can only do it once?

Also, i always see 'you can raise it 500 without the waiver' but... how? i didnt really look into it much, but id still like to on mine.

Also... There is the speed limiter, which you can also setup for RPM, i tried it on mine, but couldnt get it to work. Maybe look into that? Id ideally like to remove the rev limiter (to an extent) and then just use the speed limiter/rev to adjust it as i see fit. Even putting it on a switch so i can turn it off and on, only using it when i really need that extra speed.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So once you increase the rev limit (after filling out the paperwork and everything), you can only do it once?

Also, i always see 'you can raise it 500 without the waiver' but... how? i didnt really look into it much, but id still like to on mine.

Also... There is the speed limiter, which you can also setup for RPM, i tried it on mine, but couldnt get it to work. Maybe look into that? Id ideally like to remove the rev limiter (to an extent) and then just use the speed limiter/rev to adjust it as i see fit. Even putting it on a switch so i can turn it off and on, only using it when i really need that extra speed.
When you pick up a power commander, it will come preloaded with a slightly more aggressive map than OEM with the limiter 500rpm over stock. Along with the other maps I believe they are also set to 500 over. I set mine to 11k thinking I could manually adjust it to 10k or 10500 with the power commander software. Turns out you need to sign the waiver again and get a new code from dynojet with the limiter you would like. It seems to be a pretty fixed deal. I think these bikes are safe to 10k, maybe a hair more but anything past that is on your own. Crank/rod seems to be the weak spot at high rpm. That being said I've rev'd one out to 13,500 multiple times and nothing catastrophic happened. I'm not to familiar with the speed limiter as it's something I've never really looked in to tbh. I have actually been considering the dual map option switch from Dynojet. I'm not sure if it's one of those things you'll need to shut the bike off or come to a stop to switch or not. When I find out I'll let you know though
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Added a PCX 150 injector to the koso 170 2v and it REALLY woke the bike up. Should've done it sooner but didn't get around to it. The bike is night and day different. Before it was running out of steam around that 7k mark, now it pulls much smoother and strong all the way to redline. It needed it for sure. I can clutch up second no problem and roll 70 sitting upright with ease.
The bike I was riding with yesterday consisted of full bolt ons - chimera intake, yoshi full system, pcv+wb2, superlite sprockets, composimo race bars and a few other goodies. On the top end they really weren't super far off. My bike in the draft would pull very hard to slingshot past. Whereas his would just inch by. The big bore would barely edge it after 70 and could pull itself up to about 75 full tuck. The big difference in the 2 bikes getting to 60 was drastic. So far, really happy with how it's turned out.

Update on the KOSO 170 4v
Bike has been done for about 2 months now. Have had a tuning issue like everyone else running this kit has. Recently we aquired an LCD 200 and made some changes. Those changes helped wake the bike up quite a bit but it's still not running to its full potential. Side note I was able to get it up to about 82mph today with room to keep going. The tune just needs a few more tweaks and it should be good. I'll be posting a video up of a comparison between stock, a full bolt on + wb2 setup, koso 170 2v and the 170 4v. Hoping to have it up within a week. Just need to source some guys that are all similar weight.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yeah 125 on his. I made this today to help give people an idea of the two.
 

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where do you go to order stunt cages? I tried emailing kevtech off the FB page and got no response... Dark Knight Street I found their FB page but can't find any other information on them.
 
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