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So far i like the pro taper CR high 1 1/8 you need the pro taper adapters to run the bigger bars. Love the feel
 

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Pro Taper Yamaha bend. The ones that come factory on the YFZ450R. Roll them forward and you have a nice comfy set with enough room for clutch, handbrake and controls. Other upside is you can get them dirt cheap practically new from race teams that sell take offs.

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Discussion Starter #5
Pro Taper Yamaha bend. The ones that come factory on the YFZ450R. Roll them forward and you have a nice comfy set with enough room for clutch, handbrake and controls. Other upside is you can get them dirt cheap practically new from race teams that sell take offs.

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Where can I get them? Help me track down a set? Need new larger mounts for them as well correct? I’m rocking stock still smh.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Where can I get them? Help me track down a set? Need new larger mounts for them as well correct? I’m rocking stock still smh.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/254392404611

There you go. Now just get the pro taper adapters for 1-1/8" bars.

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These the adapters? Found them two places (amazon seems to claim they won’t fit the grom, but other link from eBay and another shop online claim they do. Is the amazon different? They both say universal. Also should I buy the throttle cable management or whatever? Providing pics of both below. If you can think of anything else I need for the bars let me know guys. Really appreciate it. (Third pic is some management for throttle cable I assume)
 

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The style in the first pic would give you more height which might be more comfortable for wheelies.
That video shows some ways you can reroute the cables. Start at around the halfway point if you have a short attention span.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I do have the shortest. But I’ll watch it all. Thanks. You the best. Now is that what that one pic I provided is for? Cable management? Would I recommend I buy the 1 1/8 adapter AND that other part that I included in the attachments?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The style in the first pic would give you more height which might be more comfortable for wheelies.
That video shows some ways you can reroute the cables. Start at around the halfway point if you have a short attention span.
I do have the shortest. But I’ll watch it all. Thanks. You the best. Now is that what that one pic I provided is for? Cable management? Would I recommend I buy the 1 1/8 adapter AND that other part that I included in the attachments? Also not sure what to get I’m seeing it fits grom (adapters) on sited but the universal one for 1-1/8 on amazon says u need extra washers and a little ghetto rigging. Someone send me a link to an adapter meant for the grom? I think maybe the ones Not from amazon I posted screenshots of are actually for the grom.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I figured out the mounts. Do I need any bar padding or whatever? I read somewhere I may need padding of some sort. The adapter I needed was part #022821 for anyone else wondering. There’s a few different “universal adapters” not all are the same from protaper. if anything other than the mounts is needed please inform me. Much thanks guys.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I found part numbers 022821 and 022822. Do not suggest getting the one ending in “822” looks like it is lower and requires a bit of ghetto rigging.

022821 seems like correct part number for protaper 1-1/8 grom bar install. Almost went the wrong route for fast amazon shipping. Not worth it.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Sorry to blow up the forum, but pretty sure I figured out what the brake line guide was for. It was obvious once I looked at my brake line and noticed I won’t be able to mount it using oem. Another tip to anyone upgrading bar size. Get the adapter for the line guide as well (assuming it fits the grom)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Wondering how to get throttle and ignition to stop sliding around. I did no taxes drill a hole in the pro tapers. I used electrical tape underneath the ignition where it bites into the hole on the stock bars but still moves. Any other options or am I stuck drilling a hole? Also if I drill a hole how am I ensuring I’m going to be in the perfect spot? Measure in? Also not exactly sure how I want my controls and handle bars so not sure if drilling into new bars is the best route. Help? Lol. Also... now I have too much slack in my clutch. Bikes useless. Tried to run clutch cable a few different ways and it still ends up with too much slack... how do I fix this. Really need help I’m stuck without the grom now ha. Smh.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Wondering how to get throttle and ignition to stop sliding around. I did no taxes drill a hole in the pro tapers. I used electrical tape underneath the ignition where it bites into the hole on the stock bars but still moves. Any other options or am I stuck drilling a hole? Also if I drill a hole how am I ensuring I’m going to be in the perfect spot? Measure in? Also not exactly sure how I want my controls and handle bars so not sure if drilling into new bars is the best route. Help? Lol. Also... now I have too much slack in my clutch. Bikes useless. Tried to run clutch cable a few different ways and it still ends up with too much slack... how do I fix this. Really need help I’m stuck without the grom now ha. Smh.
Here’s pic. Went with the bars from the Yamaha throwaway pro tapers. Do I have them too far forward? Like I said I’m paranoid to drill anything yet.
 

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Here’s pic. Went with the bars from the Yamaha throwaway pro tapers. Do I have them too far forward? Like I said I’m paranoid to drill anything yet.
They look like they are in an excellent place to begin.

Use another layer of tape. Make sure that the tape is in the middle of where the controls will clamp on. Then put the screws to it. Make sure the throttle doesn't hang up when you tighten the throttle side.

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Also, run the clutch cable in the stock routing. If it still has too much slack, try adjusting it at the clutch cover first then the clutch lever.

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