Honda Grom banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm planning to change my handlebars. I was originally thinking of taking my Grom down the Tyga MRX route and ended up with a set of race bars, however that idea has been replaced by another bike and I'm now liking the idea of a muscle bike look so have a flat bar to replace the original setup. I just happened to be looking for something else and refound the race bars and now I'm not so sure...

So has anyone got any experience of a race bar setup on the Grom against a flat bar? Whats the general thoughts if you were presented with this dilemma?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Mountain bike bars, thats a cool idea.

Do you want comfort or looks on your Grom?
Can I not have both?

But I know what you mean, the race bars I would expect to be less comfortable, but I could use raisers if need be. Flat bars might have the same issue though.

I'm edging to the flat bar though the race ones look pretty good. I'm wanting to go for a subtlety modded bike, something that you'll think is stock until you look closer and I'm thinking the flats will fit that brief better. Not as shouty as race bars might be. While I've made a few changes to my bike I like the fact that most people miss what I've done even some of the guys that I ride with don't notice whats happened recently in the garage.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
256 Posts
I would love to see more pics of your colour scheme! DMR wing bar made me smile I have thought of MTB bars in the past, I used to love my Azonic double wall's and had 24/7 dark angel's on my jump bike they were a cool looking cro mo bar don't know if they would fit though as an MTB stem is a lot narrower than the yolks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Fitting more parts at the weekend so I'll get a few more pics of the bars up close along with the colour scheme. It's the LCR MotoGP Honda team colours when Stefan Bradl raced for them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
256 Posts
Fitting more parts at the weekend so I'll get a few more pics of the bars up close along with the colour scheme. It's the LCR MotoGP Honda team colours when Stefan Bradl raced for them.
Cool, I saw a 6 and wondered if it was Bradle. I may be getting mixed up as it was a while ago, but did you have pics of your bike on the old U.K Gromlins forum also?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
155 Posts
I went with some stock size bars there werent as tall. I also rotated them a little forward so if I turn them all the way they wouldnt hit my legs. The ones I got were from fly racing and I still sit uprights and the bars feel more natural than the stock ones. The bars that I have are from Fly Racing. They are the same as Pro tapper.

Here are a couple of pics of my bike and the bars,
85820

85821

85822


But its all going to be about what feels right to you. Up right, slightly forward, how high or low the bars are...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
So I've decided, flat bars, thanks all for your comments. I've gone for a LSL low rise bar in black, LSL grips, LSL mirror extenders, Kitaco quick action throttle, Yoshimura bar ends, and Barkbusters bar end inserts.



Swapping everything over was fairly straight forward. I didn't remove the old bar ends as those screws were just going to round plus I was replacing the throttle tube so just left the old one on. I did have to loosen the throttle cables at the engine to remove them from the tube. There are no positioning tabs on the switch gear which makes setting things up a lot simpler as I don't need to drill into the bar.



Now the installation is not finished as I'm getting problems setting the throttle cables back up and could probably do with having the engine running for final checks so I'll save that for another day. I also cannot close the gap on the throttle housing properly and I'm not sure why. It doesn't appear to be trapping anything but when tightening its opening up on the right lower. I'll try again for the fifth time later, might even take the tube out to check that there is nothing in there interfering, but the throttle does rotate fine.



I've also not installed the left grip as the bar ends are not on and I want to get the spacing correct. Trouble is I can't install the bar ends as the Yoshi ends have a hole for a M6 bolt and the bar end inserts take a M8 bolt. So all I need to do here is open up the bolt hole.



And I've also noticed that my front brake line looks to long. Once everything is set up properly I'll take another look at it. But it could be a blessing in disguise as I think I may now be able to swap the bleed nipple and banjo point round on the Brembo to have them in the correct orientation.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Found the reason why the right hand switch gear isn't closing up, a fresh pair of eyes is always useful. Turns out there is a locating tab to stop the housing rotating.



I did remove it, but the housing doesn't have enough clamping force to stop it rotating. So I've measured everything up and just need to charge the battery on my little drill before I put a 5mm hole in the wrong location...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
695 Posts
I have Race Barz on 1" risers. Still have the sportbike-ish feel, but much less pressure on the wrists. I can fit between two parked cars which was the main reason for going with the race barz
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
So drilled the mounting hole for the right switch gear correctly, but the left not so much. However the left does't appear to be an issue anyway and the right no longer rotates with the throttle so I'm good. Might look at the left again in the future but for now that should be it, but...



I'm not happy with the bar clearance on full lock coming so close to the fairings, plus even just setting the bar in the garage I could feel a lot of pressure in the wrists. So I looked into bar risers and settled on a set of Moto-CNC 50mm adjustable bar risers.



I liked the the adjustable option and its a great design idea, however installation presented a little bit of a problem as I couldn't get a tool in there to do up the original or lower clamps. Potentially with other lowers there might be room but not with the Grom, I also considered going through the upper clamps but that would only allow a straight angle of clamping and ran the risk of damaging the thread. Allen keys and sockets of various lengths and designs were attempted but none would give the right angle to safely get onto the head of the bolt.



Now there may be a better or easier option, but I couldn't see it, I'll be open to suggestions but I devised a solution, I decided to make my own tool. Basically I have a 6mm Allen key that I had already chopped the hook off of to make a fork tool so I used that to make a 10mm long key that was long enough to reach into the cap head and take a 6mm spanner to turn it. Sawing through that tool steel felt like it took 40 minutes as I was doing it manually as I decided not to take a trip out in the rain to the workshop, but I got what I was working for. The manual states that the clamps should be 27nm but there was no way to get a torque wrench on there so I opted for the manually regulated setting of FT.



All that was left was a little setting up getting the rotation of the bar correct as well as lever angle. I've also put the mirrors back on as well as zip tying the wires up and adjusting the throttle correctly. I'm now happy with the feel, the clearance, and the aesthetics of the bars. All that is left to do is the bar ends, some caps for the bolts, and potentially replacing a couple of bolts such as the mirror extender mounts that look as if they should be rusting already. Plus I really need to take it for a shakedown ride.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top