[averian]

So my Grom is at the dealer now for warranty work. I'm hoping they'll be able to troubleshoot why the idle on my bike is all of a sudden so high. Do you guys have any idea what might be going on? When I start up the bike now it idles at over 3200 RPM (should be 1400 RPM I believe). The idle free play is set correctly, no sticky throttle here. When I give it a little gas to over 5000 RPMs, it stays at high RPMs but the throttle springs back correctly. Here is a video I took:

 

[intergalactic808]

Vacuum leak somewhere? I know theres a little vacuum hose going to the throttle body to the purge valve I think? Maybe check that.

 

[loaded]

Check your idle air screw?

 

[animo819]

you may have a vaccum leak sucking air , need to spray carb cleaner.
sticking throttle plate On throttle body possible..
remove snorkel intake hose and look inside. and play throttle linkage lever...
idle screw possible way off.

bad idle valve ( sensor)

 

[Honda_Grom]

It's gonna blow!

 

[fashionrider712]

Mine holds high idle in gear. Once I click it to neutral it drops back down to 1.6-1.8k. But if I'm at idle an click it into gear it doesn't move. Once I gas it a lil it jumps up an stays till I click it back to neutral.

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[Ven0m0uS]

Let us know the outcome when you hear back from your dealer.

 

[HRCNICK11]

I bet the air screw backed out.

 

[JimmyD]

It's most likely an electrical component. We have had a couple of CBR250Rs that have weird idle speed issues over the last couple years... although they usually go away when the throttle is blipped.

I'm sure your guys will get to the bottom of it. It certainly shouldn't be doing that.

 

[averian]

Update: the dealer thinks it is the throttle body solenoid causing the problem. They hope to have the part in by the middle of next week. So sad being without the Grom!

 

[fashionrider712]

Update: the dealer thinks it is the throttle body solenoid causing the problem. They hope to have the part in by the middle of next week. So sad being without the Grom!

Does this happen in neutral? Mine jumps up once I give it a lil gas in gear. Like to 3-3.2k. But once in neutral goes back to 1.5-1.8k. Is this normal?

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[ShapeShifter]

That sucks.

Am I the only one that thinks the dealer is just guessing like the rest of us? I hope he is a good guesser.

 

[averian]

My issue occurs in neutral, in gear, clutch in/out, doesn't seem to matter. If yours jumps up and stays high in gear, that too sounds like a problem to me.

 

[averian]

That sucks.

Am I the only one that thinks the dealer is just guessing like the rest of us? I hope he is a good guesser.

LOL, I hope so too! I believe the troubleshooting involved Honda's tech line so hopefully they were able to hone in on the cause with a high level of confidence.

 

[woodsrat]

That sucks.

Am I the only one that thinks the dealer is just guessing like the rest of us? I hope he is a good guesser.

While you can make an educated guess unfortunately with modern electronic doodads more often than not the fix is found by replacing the suspect component with a known good one.

Many, many moons ago the wife had a giant mid-70's Buick with GM's HEI pointless ignition and one day it died about a quarter mile from the house. After pulling it home I found out the spark had gone away. Calling several car-savvy people I knew all told me to replace the ignition module. Not wanting to buy a component and it not be the problem I started calling GM dealerships to see if anyone had the equipment to test the module as mentioned in the shop manual. Despite Indy having a shitload of GM dealerships no one had this test equipment. One dealership mentioned that a tech that no longer worked there had bought the tester and as it turned out was now working at a tire shop not far from my home.

I called the shop, indeed the fellow was working there and incredibly had the tester in the trunk of his car. I raced over, let him test it (twice), he pronounced it to be good and charged me five bucks. The catch? He also said the only way to know for sure was to replace it with a known good unit. I stopped at a discount auto parts store on the way home, bought a lifetime guaranteed module, installed it and the car fired right up.

The reason I'm sharing this with you is that someone on this forum is going to experience a failure of a gizmo on their Grom and the dealer is going to start buying and plugging in components until they find the problem--and you may be charged for not only the parts but their labor in finding it as well.

Maybe a thread ought to be started for folks who suffer a failure of a component so the rest of us can know what to expect and whether or not we see a pattern of failures of these component(s). Once the bikes are out of warranty not many of us can afford the $75-125 an hour labor rate dealers charge and the knowledge of what commonly fails might help the rest of us keep our Groms running.

 

[AJ Nin]

Everyone should check their Groms for a high idle. Usually when one has a problem, several will. Mine idles fine though.

 

[FXCLM5]

averian lets go riding, i just messaged the guy who schedules out the sonoma kart track, hopefully we can take our groms to the kart track!!!!!!! hit me up when you get your grom back, i still havent seen another one on the road, or gone on a grom ride - just toying around town mostly

 

[rkwfxd]

So did the dealer ever figure out the problem?

 

[averian]

Parts won't be here until Tuesday at the earliest so still wait and see at this point.

FXCLM5 - definitely want to get onto the kart track! Did they mention if we'll need axle/peg/bar end sliders? I know dragging the pegs is going to be an issue, desperately need rear sets.

 

[mr_e]

While you can make an educated guess unfortunately with modern electronic doodads more often than not the fix is found by replacing the suspect component with a known good one.

Many, many moons ago the wife had a giant mid-70's Buick with GM's HEI pointless ignition and one day it died about a quarter mile from the house. After pulling it home I found out the spark had gone away. Calling several car-savvy people I knew all told me to replace the ignition module. Not wanting to buy a component and it not be the problem I started calling GM dealerships to see if anyone had the equipment to test the module as mentioned in the shop manual. Despite Indy having a shitload of GM dealerships no one had this test equipment. One dealership mentioned that a tech that no longer worked there had bought the tester and as it turned out was now working at a tire shop not far from my home.

I called the shop, indeed the fellow was working there and incredibly had the tester in the trunk of his car. I raced over, let him test it (twice), he pronounced it to be good and charged me five bucks. The catch? He also said the only way to know for sure was to replace it with a known good unit. I stopped at a discount auto parts store on the way home, bought a lifetime guaranteed module, installed it and the car fired right up.

The reason I'm sharing this with you is that someone on this forum is going to experience a failure of a gizmo on their Grom and the dealer is going to start buying and plugging in components until they find the problem--and you may be charged for not only the parts but their labor in finding it as well.

Maybe a thread ought to be started for folks who suffer a failure of a component so the rest of us can know what to expect and whether or not we see a pattern of failures of these component(s). Once the bikes are out of warranty not many of us can afford the $75-125 an hour labor rate dealers charge and the knowledge of what commonly fails might help the rest of us keep our Groms running.

And at such a point, I tell the dealer about the equipment I work on. And how I don't get to just pull and replace parts to "troubleshoot". Different scale of magnitude, same principal.


You don't get to bill customers for that shit. Don't let shops fleece you like that.