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As of today, new Monkey maps are available. They added a bbk option. I don’t know if they changed the standard one, the description is the same as previous.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
As of today, new Monkey maps are available. They added a bbk option. I don’t know if they changed the standard one, the description is the same as previous.
How do I get that downloaded to my ECU?
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Just use your phone, connect, quickburn, select Honda, Monkey and then select the map desired. Easy
Thanks for the heads-up. I flashed the big bore tune.

Have to go back into the tables and reset everything like target AFR, fuel base, etc and autotune again.

I'm not going to touch the timing table.
 

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Autotune off the 170 Map for any bigbore. No need to adjust timing as its already changed to run at its best but reliable. It is not the same as stock. Ive tuned every BBK on the market with this map with great results for the past 4 years.
 

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The steps are easy to follow..

  • Flash Map (170cc for anything bbk, stock for anything 125cc)
  • Turn off by key, wait 20 seconds, key back on
  • Reset TPS 3x
  • Turn AutoTune ON
  • Turn Closed Loop OFF
  • Turn Fuel Cut Decel OFF
  • Start bike and adjust your idle on the throttle body (located by the cables, it is NOT your air screw) You want 1600-1800 - idle for bbk to keep oil flow up.
  • Once idle is set, Match it with aracers settings
  • Go to your fuel base, Adjust it up or down until your idle AFR is between 12.0-14.0
  • Mini5/RC2 Autotune kicks on at 61c where Mini+2 and RC1 turn on at 81c.
  • Ride for 200ish miles, making sure your autotune graph is all green.
  • Once your happy with the bike, Turn OFF autotune, turn ON closed loop.

*Manually save your final AT map so you have a back up to use if your o2 sensor goes bad.

Enjoy. You do not need to adjust anything else unless you are tuning on a Dyno. The Autotune feature on the aracer has been proven to produce amazing results across all boards with dynos to back it up. I have been using aracer for 4+ years. Ive tried everything on the market and the aracer is far superior in what it can do and how well it can do it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
The steps are easy to follow..

  • Flash Map (170cc for anything bbk, stock for anything 125cc)
  • Turn off by key, wait 20 seconds, key back on
  • Reset TPS 3x
  • Turn AutoTune ON
  • Turn Closed Loop OFF
  • Turn Fuel Cut Decel OFF
  • Start bike and adjust your idle on the throttle body (located by the cables, it is NOT your air screw) You want 1600-1800 - idle for bbk to keep oil flow up.
  • Once idle is set, Match it with aracers settings
  • Go to your fuel base, Adjust it up or down until your idle AFR is between 12.0-14.0
  • Mini5/RC2 Autotune kicks on at 61c where Mini+2 and RC1 turn on at 81c.
  • Ride for 200ish miles, making sure your autotune graph is all green.
  • Once your happy with the bike, Turn OFF autotune, turn ON closed loop.

*Manually save your final AT map so you have a back up to use if your o2 sensor goes bad.

Enjoy. You do not need to adjust anything else unless you are tuning on a Dyno. The Autotune feature on the aracer has been proven to produce amazing results across all boards with dynos to back it up. I have been using aracer for 4+ years. Ive tried everything on the market and the aracer is far superior in what it can do and how well it can do it.
What do you set your AFR tables to so you don't overheat?
 

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What do you set your AFR tables to so you don't overheat?
Stock settings for Aracer. No over heating issues. 13.3 across the board. WOT aracer drops them to 12.8/12.9 at the top.
 
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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
The steps are easy to follow..

  • Flash Map (170cc for anything bbk, stock for anything 125cc)
  • Turn off by key, wait 20 seconds, key back on
  • Reset TPS 3x
  • Turn AutoTune ON
  • Turn Closed Loop OFF
  • Turn Fuel Cut Decel OFF
  • Start bike and adjust your idle on the throttle body (located by the cables, it is NOT your air screw) You want 1600-1800 - idle for bbk to keep oil flow up.
  • Once idle is set, Match it with aracers settings
  • Go to your fuel base, Adjust it up or down until your idle AFR is between 12.0-14.0
  • Mini5/RC2 Autotune kicks on at 61c where Mini+2 and RC1 turn on at 81c.
  • Ride for 200ish miles, making sure your autotune graph is all green.
  • Once your happy with the bike, Turn OFF autotune, turn ON closed loop.

*Manually save your final AT map so you have a back up to use if your o2 sensor goes bad.

Enjoy. You do not need to adjust anything else unless you are tuning on a Dyno. The Autotune feature on the aracer has been proven to produce amazing results across all boards with dynos to back it up. I have been using aracer for 4+ years. Ive tried everything on the market and the aracer is far superior in what it can do and how well it can do it.
One last question: set idle and then relearn TPS 3 times or start at the base Takegawa throttle body setting of 1/8th turn, then TPS learn and then set idle speed?

So that would be TPS at 0% after idle adjusted or TPS falling at whatever percent after idle raised?
 

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Do TPS first, Adjust your idle and then I would relearn TPS again to get true zero.
 
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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
All done. Time to start riding!

One thing to add, I think, is adjust fuel base with warmed motor and auto tune off. It seems auto tune will chase down the correct AFR so you can't get a base unmanipulated setting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Random ARacer question; if you take your ECU out of the bike(getting exhaust welded) for protection, does everything stay saved?
 

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No! If you lose power by disconnecting battery, or run the battery dead, you will lose all changes. I feel sure that removing the ecu would have the same effect. You need to save a manual backup and reload.
 
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No! If you lose power by disconnecting battery, or run the battery dead, you will lose all changes. I feel sure that removing the ecu would have the same effect. You need to save a manual backup and reload.
I find that hard to believe, never had any problems with losing my settings after disconnecting the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Either way I'll save the map and pull the ECU before I get welding done so it doesn't get torched.
 

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Since this thread has evolved a bit from timing, I had to put a new O2 sensor on mine last night. The readings had been all over the place last week stuck at 25.5 for times and then intermittently picking up so I turned off closed loop and already had autotune off.

This morning I let the new sensor get warm and was still super rich and ended up having to lower my base fuel. I turned autotune on to tweak the map if it needed it anywhere. Pulled like a choo choo otherwise. Trying to decide on one of my cams and put the big valve head on this weekend.
 

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I find that hard to believe, never had any problems with losing my settings after disconnecting the battery.
I lost mine when I installed the Lithium Battery, and again 1 week later when I did something stupid and left the key on and my AntiGravity battery had to be reset. Both times it went back to a stock map which was luckily quite a bit rich for my setup. Maybe there is a capacitor that has to bleed down before you lose the map?
 
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