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Did another 50 miles of varied auto time time today. It actually starting doing the high idle while still in auto tune today. It was over 90c again when it started doing it.

Does aRacer run a high idle when temps are high to circulate more oil?


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I do notice on Aracer product/ECU you need a summer map and a winter map due to the density change in the air. I always change my mapping around for summer or winter.
 

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Interesting. I have an aracer mini 5 on the way. Hopefully no issues 馃
I did have problem when I got my mini 5 new and I flashed the map for BBK kit and I had issues and my friend who's been running mini-5 and the RC1 and the newer 2 told me I need to flash just the standard 2014 grom map and once the map was loaded to turn on AT and turn OFF CL and ride around for about 25-50 miles to let autotune setup it self to learn the style of riding you are doing.

You also have to setup or Calibrate TP" throttle position learning.

Once your engine is warmed up and A/F looks to be around 13.2 you can set idle adjust on your throttle body and also setup A/F screw for the best possible idle and also riding and shifting thur the gears.

I also check my spark plug color to make sure it is with in range of proper color.
 

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I did have problem when I got my mini 5 new and I flashed the map for BBK kit and I had issues and my friend who's been running mini-5 and the RC1 and the newer 2 told me I need to flash just the standard 2014 grom map and once the map was loaded to turn on AT and turn OFF CL and ride around for about 25-50 miles to let autotune setup it self to learn the style of riding you are doing.

You also have to setup or Calibrate TP" throttle position learning.

Once your engine is warmed up and A/F looks to be around 13.2 you can set idle adjust on your throttle body and also setup A/F screw for the best possible idle and also riding and shifting thur the gears.

I also check my spark plug color to make sure it is with in range of proper color.
So basically , no matter the mods you have or year Grom you have , flash it for the standard 2014 Grom map? I鈥檓 also going big bore
 

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So basically , no matter the mods you have or year Grom you have , flash it for the standard 2014 Grom map? I鈥檓 also going big bore
That is what I did for both my 2014 grom, I believe if you have a 2017 grom you would need to flash it for the OEM 2017 grom and set AT ON and CL OFF, the auto tune will start to adjust A/F for your riding style.

I did check Base fuel and had it set between 74-76, I set idle to 1350 rpm.

I'm running a 181-4v, port and polish head 5 axis with 15/15D cam, Koso 34mm throttle body ported and polish including the inlet tube and port matched to the head and using a HardRacing 10 hole F/I.

After starting the grom I let it warm up to operating temps and then adjusted idle with the idle screw on the throttle body and also the A/F screw. I made sure the Air screw is brass and not the OEM plastic air screw used on a stock grom.

good luck
 

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That is what I did for both my 2014 grom, I believe if you have a 2017 grom you would need to flash it for the OEM 2017 grom and set AT ON and CL OFF, the auto tune will start to adjust A/F for your riding style.

I did check Base fuel and had it set between 74-76, I set idle to 1350 rpm.

I'm running a 181-4v, port and polish head 5 axis with 15/15D cam, Koso 34mm throttle body ported and polish including the inlet tube and port matched to the head and using a HardRacing 10 hole F/I.

After starting the grom I let it warm up to operating temps and then adjusted idle with the idle screw on the throttle body and also the A/F screw. I made sure the Air screw is brass and not the OEM plastic air screw used on a stock grom.

good luck
I have a 2015! My aracer mini 5 came in today from hardracing. I鈥檓 going to set everything up right now. I just need to get my 鈥渂unghole鈥 welded to my exhaust for the wide band, to bad it鈥檚 raining here in SoCal ): but basically, I鈥檓 new to this aracer thing, I want to hook everything up with my set up right now just to test everything out, I鈥檓 using a finbro ported head with bigger valves, Koso 34mm throttle body, TB cam, intake , exhaust, etc... but I will be pulling everything off again cause I鈥檒l be slapping on a dhm 186 big bore. For the time being, will i be able to save a map for my current 125 set up without the wideband hooked up until I put on my 186 bore? Or does wideband need to be hooked up as well?
 

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So did your problem start when you installed the aRacer? I'm able to ride it and have learned to deal with it, but still want to get it resolved.

Also, does anyone know how to do a reset of the RCMini5?
I was already running the aRacer when I developed the problem. It was running fine, and then I changed something on the bike. I had to reset the idle speed so I fiddled with the air screw, and the butterfly stopper. Got it to idle fine, but then ran into the high idle problem. I tried to figure it out, but never really got it to go away, so I just lived with it. Fast forward a year. I switched to a 37mm TB. When I removed my brass air screw of the 34mm Koso, there was a big ball of blueish corrosion at the tip. I cleaned that off and reinstalled on the new TB, and it runs fine now.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I was already running the aRacer when I developed the problem. It was running fine, and then I changed something on the bike. I had to reset the idle speed so I fiddled with the air screw, and the butterfly stopper. Got it to idle fine, but then ran into the high idle problem. I tried to figure it out, but never really got it to go away, so I just lived with it. Fast forward a year. I switched to a 37mm TB. When I removed my brass air screw of the 34mm Koso, there was a big ball of blueish corrosion at the tip. I cleaned that off and reinstalled on the new TB, and it runs fine now.
I'm in the process of installing a ported head with bigger valves, and the koso 34mm TB and manifold as well as the PCX150 injector so we'll see if the problem goes away with the new parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Follow up: When i put in the Koso TB and manifold with the new injector it was instantly worse! Went straight to 3k and bounced there as soon as i turned it on. Tried adjusting the fueling really low on the aRacer to no effect. I reached out to Hard Racing where i bought the aRacer and they said they thought it had to do with the idle screws (the fuel screw on the side and the allen throttle screw that holds the plate slightly open). I backed the allen screw all the way out and it was better, but i couldn't get it lower than 2k and once i revved up to 3k it would bounce there again. I tried every position for the plastic screw, including screwed all the way in.

I then happened to read another thread about the Koso TB from @CiscoSanJose that mentioned about a brass screw for the TB; I had just carried over the plastic one from the stock intake manifold. I received it today, popped it in, adjusted it (it's actually only 1/4 turn out for me at this point) and BAM! no more problems. Idles at 1.5k and doesn't get stuck at 3k anymore.

So seems like the problem was how from the TB and how much air was getting in all along. It's weird, because with the stock ECU it wouldn't have the issue, but maybe the stock ECU handles fueling (even when there's too much air) differently than the aRacer. I also never adjusted the allen screw on the stock TB, so I'm assuming had I backed that all the way down it may have fixed it, or if I bought that brass screw (DROWsports has them) it may have resolved for me too.

Anyway, just wanted to thank everyone here, particularly @CiscoSanJose for helping me resolve the issue!
 

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Anyway, just wanted to thank everyone here, particularly @CiscoSanJose for helping me resolve the issue!
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Ride Safe and ride it like you stole it.
 

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Bringing up old subjects, the high idle just happened to me. I've had the aRacer for a bit now, now issues, everything good. Just put on the high compression piston and took the bike for the first real ride this morning and noticed that once the bike was warmed up periodically at a red light I'd see the idle RPM sitting at about 2k or higher (instead of the expected 1400). If I blipped the throttle a bit it'd drop but not repeatedly, and sometimes I'd stop and it'd be just fine at 1400. I know that the air screw was mentioned, I had turned that out a bit to get the bike to idle after the various mods, does it seem like that and the aracer are really the cause?
 
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