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Discussion Starter #1
I've got the RCMini5 with the AF1 setup and everything was good for about 100 miles. Today, I'm having an issue where if i let off the throttle as it comes down past 3K, for some reason, it will just sit there, blipping at 3k. I've got to either slip the clutch with load to get it to go back to the normal 1k-ish idle, or just turn the engine off. When I turn the engine on, it has a normal idle, but most times (not every time) as soon as i get it past 3K, it doesn't want to go below that. I've attached a video with the blipping. I've tried quick burning the stock map and that doesn't seem to make any difference.

TPS is calibrated, Idle RPM is at 0, actually everything is at the stock MSX125 quickburn, except for the fuel base that I have at 125%

 

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Make sure the throttle cable is not sticking.

Can you make a video of how the issue goes away with a simple key off and restart?

That would seem to point to another problem besides throttle cable sticking.

Does not seem like an air/fuel ratio problem at all. Seems mechanical.
 

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Maybe the air screw on your throttle body needs adjusted. Or maybe your throttle plate doesn't close the whole way.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Air screw looked good. Pretty sure throttle isn't sticking, I could see the plate close completely when i took off the intake.

Here's a video of it returning to normal after shut off:


I reached out to Hard Racing and they said could be fuel pump? I tried resetting the aRacer and even deleted/redownloaded the app and redid setup but still having same problem.
 

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That looks like a warmup or launch setting from the aRacer. Can you put the stock ECU back in to check, or do you have too many changes to the engine for a stock ECU?

Nice gauges, by the way.
 

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I have this exact same problem with my Mini+2. The bike starts up fine and runs great, but once its warmed up the idle will hang at 3K for like up to 10 seconds before dropping back down to normal. What I do is just keep the bike in gear as I'm coming to a stop and I'll let the gear bring the rpm below 3K, then I'll release the clutch. If I blip the throttle, the idle will again hang at 3K. Its not that big of a deal for me so I never really bothered looking into it.

Some others have told me to try to close the butterfly flap more, and use the air screw to set the idle speed
 

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So first of what Throttle body are you guys using Stock or Koso 34mm or some aftermarket larger throttle body????
 

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I'd look at the ''high idle'' threads, there are pages... and not necessarily related to the Mini5.
Sometimes it seems to be related to the clutch lever switch, sometimes to the TPS, sometimes it seems to be cured with a ECU reset.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'd look at the ''high idle'' threads, there are pages... and not necessarily related to the Mini5.
Sometimes it seems to be related to the clutch lever switch, sometimes to the TPS, sometimes it seems to be cured with a ECU reset.
I'll take a look at the clutch lever switch and TPS. I'm also going to try and temporarily swap back to the PCV/WB2 setup to see if it's the aRacer. My ECU had been tuned by CJR and had advanced timing so am waiting for it to come back untuned so that I don't do damage to by BBK.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
I have this exact same problem with my Mini+2. The bike starts up fine and runs great, but once its warmed up the idle will hang at 3K for like up to 10 seconds before dropping back down to normal. What I do is just keep the bike in gear as I'm coming to a stop and I'll let the gear bring the rpm below 3K, then I'll release the clutch. If I blip the throttle, the idle will again hang at 3K. Its not that big of a deal for me so I never really bothered looking into it.

Some others have told me to try to close the butterfly flap more, and use the air screw to set the idle speed
So did your problem start when you installed the aRacer? I'm able to ride it and have learned to deal with it, but still want to get it resolved.

Also, does anyone know how to do a reset of the RCMini5?
 

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What I did with my mini-5 on my Takegawa 181-4v engine with ported head using a Koso 34mm throttle body ported and 10 hole F/I. I setup my mini-5 to stock setup flash, "no BBK mapping flash", I than do the TPS calibration, I check the various other parameters such as Base Fuel, etc. I make sure that autotune is ON and CL is OFF, I ride around for about 20-50 miles. I check the spark plug color and I do some adjustments to the Throttle body Air adjustment screw and idle screw to make sure it is set correctly. I warm the engine back up and do another ride in the neighborhood checking to make sure throttle response is ok.

Than I do this, this is my friend Sam in San Jose adjusting his Aracer setup and mapping
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So just as a follow up, it's definitely the RCMini5 that's the issue - I popped in the PCV with stock ECU and no issues at the 3k RPM band. Any idea on the setting that could be driving the problem?
 

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My aRacer did this when I tried to set the idle screw too high. Backed off a little and then played with the idle air screw to bring it back up a little. Hanging at ~3k hasn’t come back.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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the problem most people are having with the Aracer mini-5 is on the flash map when setting up your grom map select the standard grom map and not any other map. Example for my grom I selected the 2014 grom map and once it was flashed I let the auto tune do it's magic
 

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After a long ride yesterday, I discovered that mine still does this. Seems to only do it in closed loop when oil temp is above 90c.

Pertinents:
2018 SF non-ABS
Stock 2016 quick burn
Idle at ~1550
Idle air screw is 1 turn out
Target afr 13.3
Base fuel set at 67% with engine warmed and autotune off and WB CL off
Rpm limit at 9600
Total of about 100 miles in widely varied load, throttle, and speed conditions

Mods:
RCmini5 w/af1
Chimera intake
Zoom loop exhaust (w/o2 bung and sensor installed)
RMW Super 125 (head, piston, plug)
Tbolt cam
Pcx150 injector
High flow fuel line
4th bearing

Notable was that I ran the same 40 mile surface streets route with outbound auto tuning and return shot closed loop. It only exhibited this behavior in the return shot closed loop.

Maybe more auto tuning time is needed?


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Did another 50 miles of varied auto time time today. It actually starting doing the high idle while still in auto tune today. It was over 90c again when it started doing it.

Does aRacer run a high idle when temps are high to circulate more oil?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I'm not sure - mine does it completely intermittently. Sometimes I can do a full ride with only a very light blimp a 3k and sometimes it does that stupid hanging thing there. I do have the PCX150 injector that I was going to try and install, I've also completely taken apart the fuel pump and cleaned it / made sure everything was working ok...
 

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Had zero issues with my mini 2+ and my mini-5 and I have two groms with Aracer setup. I had more issues/problems with the PCV setup piggy back.

Also the trick is to tap your power for any of your add on ECU from the fuse box taps and not the rear light wire that goes to the rear tail light and such to reduce load on that circuit, found that problem out really quick with the PCV setup way back when.
 
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