aRacer MiniX & AF2 experience (Finally bit the bullet)
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Yeah, apparently the AF1/AF2 are powered by the ECU, which cause the ECU voltage to drop & make it freak out.
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Report back after trying the fix!
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You can wire it (AF1) directly to the ignition (battery after turning the key) this is an installation option and runs great on mine. You can see the two options in the manual.
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I have the AF2, no such wiring info or instructions came with it, lol.
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Did a little test & put the bike on a power supply @ 13.5V this morning to see if holding a steady voltage made a difference. Stalled 1st hit of the key, but when the ECU realized it was getting more power, 2nd attempt it fired up & idles without any struggle or throttle input. Battery voltage at the battery was 12.8V before I put the power supply on it, so I know the battery is putting out enough power. That harness, albeit kind of pricey @ $35 shipped (AF1 harness is cheaper), should work perfect for me. Seems the AF1-2 are drawing the power down on the ECU when plugged direct into it & causing odd issues for me, so separating the power supply of the two only makes sense.
Bike ran nearly perfect all the way to work (5 minute ride), ran closed loop until it was warm enough to auto tune, then switched it over to try & get a cleaner map the rest of the ride.
Bike ran nearly perfect all the way to work (5 minute ride), ran closed loop until it was warm enough to auto tune, then switched it over to try & get a cleaner map the rest of the ride.
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From my understanding you need to pin an extra wire ( from the green/white speed signal wire) to the ecu connector to have the launch control working.
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I have already done this. Either way, the LC "ON" button should not crash the app.......
Recorded what happens when I click the ON button.... App just crashes & goes away.
New video by Sheldon Abbey
photos.app.goo.gl
This one shows how it acts when not connected to the ECU:
New video by Sheldon Abbey
photos.app.goo.gl
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Installed the AF2 power harness, now the idle voltage is a pretty steady 12v on the ECU (shown in the xTune app) rather than 11.3-11.4 at times even lower depending on if it wanted to idle normal or not.... battery is 13+ at idle & 14+ over 2-3k
. Idles pretty good now, will have to get some seat time & see if AT can work out the bugs in the map. TPS seems to be reading better now too, had to loosen the screw & ever so slightly rotate it until it was reacting like it should & lock it down again.Will give updates as it progresses or not. Also STILL trying to find answers why the xTune app crashes & closes every time I try to activate Launch Control, just updated the Wi-Fi via my PC which made the connection to my phone more stable, but did nothing for the LC issue....
EDIT:
Also noticed it showing 13v on the xTune app when riding, where before installing the WG harness it was low 12v when riding.
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Found this to be inaccurate.... and accurate at the same time
In my research, I could still be wrong but I searched & studied to be sure I understand how it works since aRacer has nearly ZERO support for USA.....
1. The speed sensor wire is White/Red
2. It is not necessary for LC to work.... if you use GPS for speed & run it with the xTune app on, it will also work. The speed from GPS tells the ECU to cancel LC at whatever speed you set it to.
EX: LC is set to 6k with a 250RPM drop (think rev limiter), and you have it set to cancel at 4mph. As long as you have the xTune app on & GPS speed on, it will cancel LC at 4mph & allow full RPM. If you were trying to use LC without having the app to tell it when to cancel, then you will need the speed wire pinned so the ECU knows when you hit 4mph.
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Finally had to time to really get a good AT base map. Starts easy, idles smooth, runs great, but no matter what I do it hangs at 3600-3800 idle. Took some timing out at zero throttle from 3200 to 4800, seems to have helped some but still hangs, even with the Koso Air screw installed. Found I was getting some odd inconsitent AFR readings, pulled the O2 sensor & it was black AF! Cleaned it & let it dry, reads perfect & consistent again.
Played a little with the rev limiter too..... 12.5k is my sweet spot I think. With a 14t front & Superlite stock toothed rear, it hits the limiter @ 34mph in 1st gear, 56 in 2nd, shifted from 3rd at 71 still had not hit the limiter yet, LOL. Obviously pulls better/harder shifting before the limiter somewhere in the 11-11.5k+ range seems about right.
Screenshot of the AFR chart in the upper RPM range . More time will clean that up even better now that everything seems to be working as it should. TPS was the biggest issue with getting consistent repeatable AT maps going... The WickedGrom power harness I believe had some influence on that, cause it actually tuned the low throttle openings easily this time around.
![Gadget Font Office equipment Multimedia Electronic device]()
Played a little with the rev limiter too..... 12.5k is my sweet spot I think
. With a 14t front & Superlite stock toothed rear, it hits the limiter @ 34mph in 1st gear, 56 in 2nd, shifted from 3rd at 71 still had not hit the limiter yet, LOL. Obviously pulls better/harder shifting before the limiter somewhere in the 11-11.5k+ range seems about right.Screenshot of the AFR chart in the upper RPM range
. More time will clean that up even better now that everything seems to be working as it should. TPS was the biggest issue with getting consistent repeatable AT maps going... The WickedGrom power harness I believe had some influence on that, cause it actually tuned the low throttle openings easily this time around.
I had the exact same issues with mine. Changed the battery out as it was 2 year old (only 400km but) and new battery works a treat. Might try seperate routing of the AF2 module as I noticed a massive difference in voltage when I unplug the AF2 module. I was seriously cursing the AF2 module until I changed the battery.
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Been through 2 new batteries since installing aRacer stuff in hopes of better results..... Just got a WickedGrom power harness HERE, that separated the power feeding the AF2 from the MiniX, reads 12-13v on the ECU now (through the app). Still 13+ at idle & over 14v above 3k at the battery. Harness basically moves the power supply source of the AF1/AF2 from the ECU to the tail light circuit, seems to have taken a load off the ECU so it acts better both get a steadier power source.
Running pretty good now, definitely auto-tuning easier & the TPS actually ready like it should.
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Still waiting for an update to fix the upgrades crashing the app. Also have glitches since updating the wifi as recommended on the FB group. Thing is constantly freezing up while AT is running..... Apparently the MiniX does not like voltage drop during startup, & it freaks it out enough to make the TPS not read right & that is causing all sorts of trouble. Will be testing a capacitor bank added to the battery to see if it will help the voltage drop during startup (bike is apart currently). Seems aRacer should have done more testing before releasing the MiniX.....
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Crappy weather & irritation caused by things not working, haven't ridden it much in the last week or so. So in the meantime, I got a 34mm TB & intake. Had to take a lot of material from the intake port to match the Koso 30.5mm opening. Still a little cleanup on the EX side to do, but the intake side is ready for action
Before:
![Camera accessory Film camera Reflex camera Auto part Metal]()
After:
![Bicycle part Rim Auto part Automotive wheel system Composite material]()
EX after (forgot to take a before):
![Automotive tire Tire Water Wheel Wood]()
Little more cleanup & EX is also ready for action:
![Automotive tire Motor vehicle Rim Locking hubs Gas]()
Before:
After:
EX after (forgot to take a before):
Little more cleanup & EX is also ready for action:
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