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Discussion Starter #1
Since I have been using the mini+2 for a while which in my opinion is way better than any piggy back ECU system for the grom this is my daily use and testing of both the mini+2 and mini 5.

I'm not sure why I did not move up to the mini 5 a lot sooner and I can imagine what the Aracer RC1 is like.

Anyway I like the idea that I can do my adjustment of base fuel, fuel mapping in various TP and RPM, and and many more adjustment using my smart devices such as a smart phone,tablet, computer via attachment of the BT.

A must have with both the mini+2 and mini 5 is the AT unit. The mini 5 comes with the BT connection. The other items/hardware you need is the harness cable for the Aracer so you can attach all the other add on's to your Aracer ECU.

You will also have to download the AracerSmart app to your smart device. The AracerSmart Lite is a free download and the AracerSmart Pro cost around 12-14 dollars and that one does everything for you to adjust your Aracer ECU.

The Aracer mini+2 is physically a little smaller in size than the mini5 and I had to really find room on the side of my grom to install the mini5 which meant I bend the OEM metal holder for the OEM ECU in ward to get it to fit. The mini+2 has no problem fitting.

If you like soldering wire you can cut out the extra wire length on the aracer harness and custom the length of the wire to fit the grom and make room to install all the add on device and it's cable.

Aracer is pricey but worth the money if you are into custom tuning your grom or monkey bike.

Ride safe all
 

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I have a takegawa 143 bbk with cam, a chimera intake, and a hindle exhaust. I'm using a PCV with Wideband Autotune for my fuel controller. I just got it all back together and only have about 45 minutes of ride time on the bike but it runs like crap and stutters and hesitates like crazy. Will the Aracer ECU adjust more quickly than the power commander and wideband? I'm thinking about making the switch the pc was and wideband was a pain to setup and now I'm struggling to get the autotune to find a good setting. I have only accepted the trims for the autotune 3 times in 45 minutes of riding.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have a takegawa 143 bbk with cam, a chimera intake, and a hindle exhaust. I'm using a PCV with Wideband Autotune for my fuel controller. I just got it all back together and only have about 45 minutes of ride time on the bike but it runs like crap and stutters and hesitates like crazy. Will the Aracer ECU adjust more quickly than the power commander and wideband? I'm thinking about making the switch the pc was and wideband was a pain to setup and now I'm struggling to get the autotune to find a good setting. I have only accepted the trims for the autotune 3 times in 45 minutes of riding.
Like I said I had the PCV-WB02 piggy back system and when I switch over to Aracer mini+2 with AT it was like night and day. Aracer is pricey but worth all the headacks esp with the piggy back system, you want standalone system in my opinion.

Look at all my posting and you will see that I did have the PCV-WB02 working but at times it would hiccup and cause strange problems. All the guys that I ride with or are in contact with in the Bay area Northern Calif use either a stand alone system such as Finbro or Yuminashi or go Aracer.

Things to consider when tuning is that you have the right F/I, throttle body, airbox,exhaust system. Some times you have to play around with the F/I size to get the performance you need.

good luck on you decision
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Have you ever had your ECU reflashed? Do you find yourself always fine tuning or do you just set it and forget it?
On the Aracer, set it to AT and ride, Zero Issues, since I have the mini 5 I just look at my app on my iphone and check my record mod and look at the graph. So EZ and simple to use, hardest thing on the mini 5 was to get the ECU to mount on the same location as the stock ECU, had to bend some metal and squeeze it in and re-arrange the wire harness and I was good to go.

No computer hook up, no extra wire to the ECU to program it, all BT to phone or if need be to smart device or computer. Has mini-USB cable to flash ECU for update firmware or update via BT
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I've heard a lot of people having issues getting their phones to connect via Bluetooth to the Mini 5. Have you had this issue at all?
Zero issue, I mounted the BT unit on the left side under the fuel tank side with velcro, my friend who has installed a couple of min5 units on groms and MC told me that the BT is moved as far away from under the seat due to the amount of metal/electronics. The BT was installed on the left side of the gas tank under the plastic cover the BT has better reception to your iphone/smartphone that is mounted to a handle bar phone holder or your tank bag.
 

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Have you ever had your ECU reflashed? Do you find yourself always fine tuning or do you just set it and forget it?
I went with an $80 Yuminashi ECU. It works great for a mildly modified stock displacement engine. I'm always changing stuff and haven't touched it since I installed it. I get to enjoy riding instead of wasting all my my time f**king around trying to get the tuning right. I just installed an oversized 140cc injector (PCX150) yesterday and the ECU adjusted itself without my needing to do anything except adjust the idle air screw. :)
 

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I have a takegawa 143 bbk with cam, a chimera intake, and a hindle exhaust. I'm using a PCV with Wideband Autotune for my fuel controller. I just got it all back together and only have about 45 minutes of ride time on the bike but it runs like crap and stutters and hesitates like crazy. Will the Aracer ECU adjust more quickly than the power commander and wideband? I'm thinking about making the switch the pc was and wideband was a pain to setup and now I'm struggling to get the autotune to find a good setting. I have only accepted the trims for the autotune 3 times in 45 minutes of riding.
Try this PCV map. It's exactly for your setup.

View attachment Takegawa 143.zip
 

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NP, let us know how it goes.

I'm in the process of putting the identical setup to yours on my Grom.
It was definitely a big improvement over stock. Much more torque just working through the autotune issues now but hopefully your map will help. I'm now able to keep up with TTR 125's and crf 100f's on the track. Also what helped tremendously was the ohlins front and rear suspension and sato rear sets. All of those mods combined plus mitas mc35 tires took 4 seconds off my lap times vs stock. Where did you get the map from?
 

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Another guy with the same setup shared this map earlier. I'll probably have my 143 assembled in about a week - still figuring out how to mount my oil cooler.

I also have rearsets and the Ohlins rear shock. I actually have the Ohlins front for inserts too, but they are in a pair of shocks that is bent, so I'll need to swap them.

Where are you tracking the bike?

Are you using the stock injector?
 

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Tooter, was it hard to re-pin the connector? I confess that I am a little apprehensive about doing that.
So was I.

The job was tedious but not hard. There's no cutting or soldering wires, just relocating 4 female pin connectors. I used the pin numbering chart in my Grom Service Manual. Remember that chart is for the male ECU itself, and not the female connector the ECU plugs into. So the connector is a mirror image of the numbering chart. I made damn sure I was moving the right pin connectors to the right locations before I touched anything.



Once the wires were in their proper locations I simply plugged in the ECU and haven't touched it since. I've been using it for about 3,000 miles and it works just fine. It adjusts itself to the constant intake and exhaust changes I'm always making. It even compensated for the PXC 150 injector I installed. The bike runs great! :)
 

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Another guy with the same setup shared this map earlier. I'll probably have my 143 assembled in about a week - still figuring out how to mount my oil cooler.

I also have rearsets and the Ohlins rear shock. I actually have the Ohlins front for inserts too, but they are in a pair of shocks that is bent, so I'll need to swap them.

Where are you tracking the bike?

Are you using the stock injector?
I'm tracking the bike at Sandy Hook Raceway in Maryland. It's a go kart track. I plan to take it to New Jersey as well. I am running the stock injector. I have been trying to decide if I want to upgrade the injector or not. I need to get the preload on the rear shock set. That's my next project along with getting the pcv working.
 

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Yeah, I've been planning to go to the kart track for a long time here in NorCal... Maybe I'll finally get to it when I finish the 143cc upgrade.

Only issue is I have nothing to tow it with.
 

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On the Aracer, set it to AT and ride, Zero Issues, since I have the mini 5 I just look at my app on my iphone and check my record mod and look at the graph. So EZ and simple to use, hardest thing on the mini 5 was to get the ECU to mount on the same location as the stock ECU, had to bend some metal and squeeze it in and re-arrange the wire harness and I was good to go.

No computer hook up, no extra wire to the ECU to program it, all BT to phone or if need be to smart device or computer. Has mini-USB cable to flash ECU for update firmware or update via BT
yeah. I like to set it and forget it. I have been really liking the ECU reflash that I have but I live in south texas where its 105 so the bike really lags in the heat. but thats native to cold and hot air in the combustion chamber.

I like the idea of auto tuning but dont like alot of the extras that are required. I have 16000 miles on mine and would like to keep it a few more years. I dont want to even think about big bore or super anything yet. Most mods havent caused issues but anytime the engine or internals gets involved, I have always had issues. I do have a cam, intake and exhaust, ecu reflash and a few sprockets that I can change out, a speed ohealer when needed and a fuel adjustment piece. When I took all of the extra stuff off my grom has been more reliable. Just dont want to sacrifice that.
Thanks
 

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yeah. I like to set it and forget it. I have been really liking the ECU reflash that I have but I live in south texas where its 105 so the bike really lags in the heat. but thats native to cold and hot air in the combustion chamber.

I like the idea of auto tuning but dont like alot of the extras that are required. I have 16000 miles on mine and would like to keep it a few more years. I dont want to even think about big bore or super anything yet. Most mods havent caused issues but anytime the engine or internals gets involved, I have always had issues. I do have a cam, intake and exhaust, ecu reflash and a few sprockets that I can change out, a speed ohealer when needed and a fuel adjustment piece. When I took all of the extra stuff off my grom has been more reliable. Just dont want to sacrifice that.
Thanks
I'm the same way. LESS complicated crap = MORE reliability.
I need my Grom always up and running, and can't afford any down time.
 
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