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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
After taking this stock beast to the track for the 1st time, I realized (kinda already knew) the forks are terrible. I couldn't keep a line coming out of the corners to save me and going into tight turn it felt like I was going to do a stoppie, cost me lots of time and aggravation. So I am sitting here today trying to figure out my options for the front end. Looking at adjustable pre-load caps ($100+), Raetech or Ohlins springs for my weight $100+-, plus the cost of the tool to hold the stanchion to separate the bottom, Ohlins cartridges ($250+), or ND4's $15 for mod (turns out doesn't work on the SF because the caps and internals are different). After reading that they are different, I decided to remove the caps to see what I could do along ND4's lines for cheap (I'm poor because I have too many toys :big smile: ).

Well, I took off the cap to find that is screws directly onto the threaded top of the stock cartridge with a locking nut to keep it all together (doesn't have the extra bolt through the middle like the 1st gens do). I grabbed a 17mm wrench to hold the locking nut and unscrewed the cap, turns out there is about an inch of threads on the cartridge threaded into the cap. So I screwed the cap on about half way .5" then tightened the lock nut up against it, put the cap back in the fork tube and proceeded to do the other side.

I immediately noticed a difference in the stance of the bike, front end sat higher than before. Took it off the rear stand and sat on it, front end did not dive/drop as far as before :) Took it around the block and it feels WAY better than before.

I wish I had taken pics along the way, but I am more into wrenching and riding than I am into photography and How-to's. Will be changing out the oil next week to try to help improve the dampening (can't hurt right?), maybe I'll take pics then and update this post.

UPDATE adding pics:
Stock:
Stock.jpg


Adjusted:
Stock adjusted for more preload.jpg

Side by side w/o caps:
side by side.jpg

Crappy stock oil in a 17' SF with 8000 miles on it:
shitty fork oil.jpg
 

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Grab yourself some racing bros suspension from steady garage, i have them in my SF grom and its a world of difference! Now I have ohlins in one of my groms and the racing bros suspension is way better and more affordable
 

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"I wish I had taken pics along the way, but I am more into wrenching and riding than I am into photography and How-to's. Will be changing out the oil next week to try to help improve the dampening (can't hurt right?), maybe I'll take pics then and update this post."

Please do. it would be much appreciated by everyone I'm sure
:big smile: I will be looking to do this mod now

Thanks
Davey.
 

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2017 fork mod aka N4D mod or w/e for SFs How to has been done lol


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With photos or video?? if so please add a link, if not sush319 may post some and I'm sure this will make it easier to follow for most trying the mod (myself included having never really messed about with forks).

Thanks
Davey.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
With photos or video?? if so please add a link, if not sush319 may post some and I'm sure this will make it easier to follow for most trying the mod (myself included having never really messed about with forks).

Thanks
Davey.

When I get to it next weekend and change the oil, I will make a point to take pics. It is super simple and I spent zero on this. That other guy talks about replacing the nuts and adding washers & steel rods in the cap. Not necessary at all, the factory parts work just fine.
 

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When I get to it next weekend and change the oil, I will make a point to take pics. It is super simple and I spent zero on this. That other guy talks about replacing the nuts and adding washers & steel rods in the cap. Not necessary at all, the factory parts work just fine.
That's because '14-15 forks are different than the '16-17.. lol
 

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When I get to it next weekend and change the oil, I will make a point to take pics. It is super simple and I spent zero on this. That other guy talks about replacing the nuts and adding washers & steel rods in the cap. Not necessary at all, the factory parts work just fine.
Excellent! thank you very much ;)

As stated before I'm sure this will be of benefit to many SF riders and any improvements gained appreciated for those of us who can't afford the official upgrade kits.

regards
Davey.
 

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With photos or video?? if so please add a link, if not sush319 may post some and I'm sure this will make it easier to follow for most trying the mod (myself included having never really messed about with forks).

Thanks
Davey.
No photos or video unfortunately. I have been meaning to do it over the weekend and take photos and do a walkthrough but haven't had the time yet

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Ok so I picked up some 20 wt oil, m12 washers 1" pitch, and m12 washers and went ahead and gave it a shot. I think I screwed the lock nut down to far though since there's about 1 thread down from the bottom. Using my shock dyno (my hands to compress them ?) they fell a tiny bit more stuff but am still able to compress them almost to complete compression. In one of them I put the stock washer and the other I put the m12 washer, I feel like the stock washer feels better so I'll keep that one on but I'm gonna move that lock but closer to the top in hopes it'll be much stiffer. I scarred the fuck out of my shafts using vise grips to vise grips to hold the shaft to tighten the nut, stupid move I'm really sad now haha. Anyways I'll post pics tomorrow once I get everything figured out!

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Discussion Starter #13
"I wish I had taken pics along the way, but I am more into wrenching and riding than I am into photography and How-to's. Will be changing out the oil next week to try to help improve the dampening (can't hurt right?), maybe I'll take pics then and update this post."

Please do. it would be much appreciated by everyone I'm sure
:big smile: I will be looking to do this mod now

Thanks
Davey.
^^^^ Pics are int he 1st post.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ok so I picked up some 20 wt oil, m12 washers 1" pitch, and m12 washers and went ahead and gave it a shot. I think I screwed the lock nut down to far though since there's about 1 thread down from the bottom. Using my shock dyno (my hands to compress them ?) they fell a tiny bit more stuff but am still able to compress them almost to complete compression. In one of them I put the stock washer and the other I put the m12 washer, I feel like the stock washer feels better so I'll keep that one on but I'm gonna move that lock but closer to the top in hopes it'll be much stiffer. I scarred the fuck out of my shafts using vise grips to vise grips to hold the shaft to tighten the nut, stupid move I'm really sad now haha. Anyways I'll post pics tomorrow once I get everything figured out!

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You must have followed that other tutorial. I did not add any washers or use any additional parts. Nor did I mention using vice grips on the damper rods. I just updated the 1st post in this thread with pics to show what it looks like before and after (using all stock parts).
 

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You must have followed that other tutorial. I did not add any washers or use any additional parts. Nor did I mention using vice grips on the damper rods. I just updated the 1st post in this thread with pics to show what it looks like before and after (using all stock parts).
Ya I did, I'll have to move the nut up higher and put the stock washer back on, sucks I messed up my shafts a bit though lol. I had to use the vise grips to put on the m12 nut from the other tutorial

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Discussion Starter #17
You Sir are a Gentleman, many thanks for this :applause::applause::applause:
You are quite welcome. I can tell you with the added preload and the fresh 15w oil it feels 1000 times better than stock. Is it Ohlins no, but it also is no longer a pogo stick up front either. Total cost $10 for new fork oil.
 

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Question fork gurus

I wanna do this on my 17 but my forks were wrapped in black and it would be a bitch to redo

imagine I pull the nuts off the top without removing the forks, pull the innards and extract the oil I can using a pump. knowing I wouldn't extract it all, could I make up for it by pouring some 40wt in?

wouldn't the mixing of viscosity provide a net product of around 30wt?


flame away
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Question fork gurus

I wanna do this on my 17 but my forks were wrapped in black and it would be a bitch to redo

imagine I pull the nuts off the top without removing the forks, pull the innards and extract the oil I can using a pump. knowing I wouldn't extract it all, could I make up for it by pouring some 40wt in?

wouldn't the mixing of viscosity provide a net product of around 30wt?


flame away
Forks have to come off to get all of the oil out. You can't peel off the wrap between the triples and put it back on after the job is done?
 

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Nice contribution. Might try this since I don't really want to tear apart my front end right now. Completely agree with you about the way the Grom handles in turns and on hard braking...I think I even described it exactly the same way in another thread.
 
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