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2020 Honda Grom
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DeLorean? No. Flux Capacitor, Yes.
You can absolutely buy a flux capacitor from Orielly auto parts, they sell them. They light up and everything.
 

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I dont know what twist is saying but dont take his advice..smh. Having aracer alone IS PROVEN to pick up power with a 100% stock bike. As someone who supports aracer and aracer supports me, this is the best stand alone ecu on the market for the grom. Its basically proven each day with dyno results and track times. Combine this with a Cam and some port work, you will hit 75mph with ease. If you really want to get power out of the stock engine, The Kitaco Neo 181 kit is the best on the market. If rowdy is more your style, the Koso 170 4v kit is also an excellent choice. Ive built basiclly every setup available. Shoot me a PM if youd like to dive further into the grom/monkey engine world. Its what i live for LOL
 

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Also i have a full swap how-to on youtube if you really, really wanna get rowdy. Parts list and links.

youtube.com/c/wickedgrom
 

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Also i have a full swap how-to on youtube if you really, really wanna get rowdy. Parts list and links.

youtube.com/c/wickedgrom
Hey Wicked,

I'm really just looking for mild mods for now - pretty much an exhaust that's not obnoxiously loud, an intake (while I would like to keep the stock look - I understand the the best power comes from short/mid length intakes), a cam (not certain still what I should choose or even look for), and either a tuned ECU or Aracer/Powercommander/Etc. Any set up you suggest that would net me about 12Hp at the rear wheel while keeping reliability (and if possible not having to add an oil cooler, unless it's necessary)?

Thanks in advance,

E Razote
 

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Okay guys, I think I've settled on doing the intake and exhaust for now. I'm still on the fence on the Cam, because I'm not sure which I should go with. The TB sounds like a good choice, but I saw the note on Hardracing's site: "Factory decompression mechanism will not work with this aftermarket camshaft" and it threw me. Are there any adverse affects of NOT having a "decompression mechanism"? What are the other cam options that deliver about the same performance/reliability? It's okay if it's costs a little more. For the 10-12 horsepower goal I'm looking at, would someone suggest other mods? I understand sprocket changes would help with acceleration, but I'm just looking mostly at top end. If there's a combo of exhaust/intake/cam/piston, or even if a light BBK like a 143 would be easier/more cost effective, I'm open to other options.

Also, there are people swearing up and down that getting a power commander/Aracer/wideband is the most dependable way for me to wring out the most of my mods, while others tell me that just getting a re-flashed ECU would be the better/less finicky way to go, since I'm not going BBK. (And for those people that say "Koso 170, or 181 BBK is the way to go" - I hear you and agree, but I really dont want to mess with oil coolers, catch cans, playing around with A/F ratios. I'm really looking to go "most bang for the buck" without the hassle of fiddling).

Sorry for being a super nerdy newb, and thanks again in advance!

- E Razote

PS got the new shifter and am waiting for the shifter support link to come in on Monday. Looking at the shift linkages and assembly, it doesn't look too difficult. I just dont like the fact that it looks like I'm going to have to remove the rearset to get to everything. Ah well - nothing ventured...
 

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D H M Stage 3 probably easily 14hp out the box. piston swap, tb cam, DHM flash or buy parts and get a CJR self tuning ecu.

I have a high comp 125 setup I can sell, and a spare TB cam, you'd just need to do the ECU stuff that you decide on.
 

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2020 Honda Grom
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You do not need the decompression mechanism.


Scroll to the bottom to see dyno charts for various combinations, pick the one that excites you. I had his stage 1.2 setup for about 10,000 miles. @Hairless still does, great setup with 14/36 gearing. You will want better valvesprings so you can spin it higher than 10k rpm.
 

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Be careful with the TB cam. Any of the high rpm race cams don't come alive until 6k rpm and up.

For reference, max hp on the stock cam is at 7,800 rpm.

So, do you want your bike to start pulling at almost what the stock max hp is and then shutdown shortly after when you run out of headflow and valve spring?

One of the biggest mistakes I've made with my bike is putting in a race cam, Kitaco Type 2, on my 181 with headwork and bigger valves and stronger springs.

When you want to go you need to rev the snot out of the engine. It also kills the down low torque of the Takegawa N-20 cam that backed out.

A cam with more torque will carry taller gearing instead of having to hear down to get rpm high and into the usable range.

@JesseeS will attest to this as he put the TB cam and flashed ECU and then the bike is a dud down low and in the midrange.

Most people will be much happier with a milder cam.
 

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I had a takegawa N-20 as well. It's an interesting cam. I was able to hit 68mph with it (220lbs 6' 3"). Really felt nothing different down low. 5k-6500 rpm it had some torque and pull... then reminded me of my turbo Subaru that revs high, makes loud noises, but really isn't doing anything any more.

I prefer a power curve that makes power to redline rather than tapers before.
 

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2020 Honda Monkey and others
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I had Dynojet tune mine and even with the high-performance cam it wouldn't make max power at stock redline.

That is with the 181. I get the impression the tune may not have been that great. I've pulled everything apart and the parts are all fine but mine should have laid down more power yet it seemed pretty dead on the low end and pulling power up top, I never ran into redline getting max drive from it. Once it got to 8000 or 8500 rpm it just seemed to carry the same power to redline.

89659
 

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The larger displacement engines run out of steam breathing thru a 2 valve head, a 125cc can scream and continue to make HP. The bigger motors make a lot more torque.
 
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Discussion Starter #54
I appreciate all the feedback and viewpoints. Installed the Chimera intake and Yoshimura pipe this weekend. Didn't get out for more than a few miles.

Whether imagined, true (slight) power increase, decreased weight (stock pipe/cat was super heavy), or combination thereof the Monkey seemed to have a bit more go.

Having always wanted a Honda Z mini/trail bike as a kid in the 80's, this modern street legal version tugs a bit at my nostalgic heart. While I'm not try to build a mini race rocket by any means, there is something to be said for enjoying a more nimble smaller displacement bike, yet wanting a bit more pep over stock .

I look forward to installing my aracer ecu and seeing what else I can get out of it. Then maybe look into a sprocket change.

@Ninelives17
I plan on changing the oil at 300 miles and cleaning the screen. Do you see any benefit to switching over to synthetic (assuming it isn't from factory)?

As for the relay, I think it was recommended with the acracer O2 sensor/module. So I threw it in my cart for $5 bucks. I haven't read up on it or looked at a wiring diagram yet. I'm one of those people who likes to have every possible thing I could need on hand when starting into something.

Thanks all, again.
 

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2020 Honda Grom
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I am not an oil fanatic, I have ran lots of oils in different vehicles and only blew one motor (too much boost, lack of tuning). I have only used honda GN4 oil in my grom, over 13,000 miles. I have been buying it online where it is cheaper, and I change it every 1000 miles. I change the oil filter every 2000 miles. However, since I bought the FJR1300 and run mobil 1 in it, I thought about running it in the grom as well just to keep less stock around. The synthetic would probably handle the high temps better than the Honda conventional.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
I notice a lot of vibration in the handlebars and mirrors at idle, that goes away when I squeeze the front brake. I assume most Monkeys and Groms are like this when the front pads squeeze the rotor and stiffen up the front end?
 

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Ordered the Mnnthbx DNA stage 3 intake and Akrapovic full exhaust. I think I'm going to hold off on the high comp piston for now, since it seems that I may need an oil cooler and possibly a catch can for it. I'm going to wait for the first oil change and then get a cam. I'm on the fence about whether to get the TB or go Yoshimura ST-1M. Leaning towards the TB as I can just reflash the ECU at CJR.

I'm going to also get the OPMID multi display and Kitaco clutch cover in a few weeks.

If I can find a shop that's comfortable with working on my Monkey, I think I'll do the Takegawa 5 speed (maybe put in the slipper clutch, just to be different). Then I'm done... at least, until the BBK beckons me.

Does anyone know where I can order the Euro tail light and turn signals from? And will I need a special relay or other parts to install it? The usual places seem to be out of stock.
 

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I notice a lot of vibration in the handlebars and mirrors at idle, that goes away when I squeeze the front brake. I assume most Monkeys and Groms are like this when the front pads squeeze the rotor and stiffen up the front end?
I noticed the same thing! I'm pretty sure that's normal as the Honda CBR300R I had as my first bike did the exact same thing XD
 

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Discussion Starter #59
I noticed the same thing! I'm pretty sure that's normal as the Honda CBR300R I had as my first bike did the exact same thing XD
I've definitely noticed it on other bikes as well. Most notably on a 250 Nighthawk. However, it was literally the first thing I noticed on this thing with 0 miles. I shrugged it off as normal and bought it anyway!

Good to know, thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #60
I've definitely noticed it on other bikes as well. Most notably on a 250 Nighthawk. However, it was literally the first thing I noticed on this thing with 0 miles. I shrugged it off as normal and bought it anyway!

Good to know, thanks!

...in hindsight, it is a single as well.
 
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