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Semi-impulsively picked up a 2021 non ABS Monkey. I now have this strange urge to make this thing go faster.

While mechanically inclined enough to be slightly dangerous, I realize that I do have some unanswered questions.

Checked out the supporting vendors and chose one to order the following to get me started: Intake, Race exhaust, Injector, Wideband O2/module, and ECU (specifics at bottom of post).

1- Are the 2020 and 2021 Monkey the same in regard to performance parts? (The vendor I went with, lists most part descriptions as covering 2013-2020 model years. I assume this is just text that requires updating to reflect 2021.)

2- Does the Aracer Mini5 Complete ECU come with the bLink module?

3- What is the general consensus on installing performance components prior to the 300 mile break-in period or first oil change at 600 miles?

Specific parts ordered:
-Chimera Short Ram Air Intake (KN filter)
-Yoshimura RS-3 Full System
-Acracer RC Mini5 Complete ECU (2019-2020)
-Acracer Wideband O2 Sensor/module
-2 to 5 cable Splitter Harness
-Trigger Relay
-PCX150 Fuel Injector

Thanks for reading to the end. Even more thanks for any info provided.
 

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1. Yes
2. The one I bought from CJR came with it.
3. It is fine, but please change your oil and clean the screen before the 600 mile mark if you can.

You do not need the PCX injector, it will run with it, but you are far from needing one. You will want a cam, especially if you are chasing speed.
 

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What are you using the relay for? The Aracer will lose it's memory if you drop power from it.
 

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Spending hundreds, or perhaps thousands of dollars to eek out a few HP is a sickness that affects all motorcyclists at one time or another. Mostly you'll just make it louder and possibly slower. All those "free breathing" mods might get a tiny bit of HP on the top end of the RPM range but you usually lose overall power under the curve on a dyno plot. Exhaust back pressure, intake plenum design, etc all are engineered to make good low and mid-range power and you lose that when you open it up.

My advice to anyone would be to re-gear (down 1 tooth on the countershaft, maybe up a couple of teeth on the rear sprocket) to get snappier acceleration and then leave it alone. Your savings account and you neighbors will thank you for it.

I've been to dealer dyno day events and I don't think I've ever seen any bike with bolt on mods including a tuner make more power under the curve than a bone stock bike. Almost all of then don't even make better peak HP. Yeah, I know. That flies in the face of everything you think about performance mods but the dyno don't lie. I wish I had all the money people spent on pipes and tunes.
 

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Spending hundreds, or perhaps thousands of dollars to eek out a few HP is a sickness that affects all motorcyclists at one time or another. Mostly you'll just make it louder and possibly slower. All those "free breathing" mods might get a tiny bit of HP on the top end of the RPM range but you usually lose overall power under the curve on a dyno plot. Exhaust back pressure, intake plenum design, etc all are engineered to make good low and mid-range power and you lose that when you open it up.

My advice to anyone would be to re-gear (down 1 tooth on the countershaft, maybe up a couple of teeth on the rear sprocket) to get snappier acceleration and then leave it alone. Your savings account and you neighbors will thank you for it.

I've been to dealer dyno day events and I don't think I've ever seen any bike with bolt on mods including a tuner make more power under the curve than a bone stock bike. Almost all of then don't even make better peak HP. Yeah, I know. That flies in the face of everything you think about performance mods but the dyno don't lie. I wish I had all the money people spent on pipes and tunes.
Yep. I don't know if the juice is worth the squeeze. It's a 9hp engine...even if you increase power by 30% (which is probably impossible)...now you have a whopping 12hp. I've spent over 20 years in fleet maintenance...typically anytime you increase an engine's performance beyond engineering specs it will likely trickle down and create major mechanical issues somewhere else. I used to have a BMW M3, guys were always modding them for more power. Stoplight racing and amateur track days would ultimately lead to catastrophic breakdowns. I'm not sure the Monkey is a great platform for max performance upgrades. The amount of money it would take to make any significant change would likely put the bike in the CB300 or CB500 price range.
 

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Spending hundreds, or perhaps thousands of dollars to eek out a few HP is a sickness that affects all motorcyclists at one time or another. Mostly you'll just make it louder and possibly slower. All those "free breathing" mods might get a tiny bit of HP on the top end of the RPM range but you usually lose overall power under the curve on a dyno plot. Exhaust back pressure, intake plenum design, etc all are engineered to make good low and mid-range power and you lose that when you open it up.

My advice to anyone would be to re-gear (down 1 tooth on the countershaft, maybe up a couple of teeth on the rear sprocket) to get snappier acceleration and then leave it alone. Your savings account and you neighbors will thank you for it.

I've been to dealer dyno day events and I don't think I've ever seen any bike with bolt on mods including a tuner make more power under the curve than a bone stock bike. Almost all of then don't even make better peak HP. Yeah, I know. That flies in the face of everything you think about performance mods but the dyno don't lie. I wish I had all the money people spent on pipes and tunes.
Heretic!!! The truth has no place here!! And yes I just spent 13 hours unsuccessfully installing a used cam thank you very much.
 

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If you really wanted something special, start cruising the salvage auction sites for a CBR250 or 300 that's been crashed but the engine is fine. Then get one of the bolt up kits that make it a snap to convert it to a 25 HP Grom. That'll make it go 75 mph.
 

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I'm in the same boat. Picked mine up on Saturday and now I'm pricing and prioritizing what mods I want first. I just saw preview pics of the up and coming 22 (23?) Monkey and it looks like they're going to be upgrading the new ones with the 5 speed and oil filter, like on the 22 Groms. I don't like the new paint schemes as the "new look" even makes the yellow ones look drab in comparison; there's way too much gray for my liking on the tanks.

The practical side of me says to go with the new clutch cover, maybe the 5 speed (and pay for a licensed mechanic to do the work that's way above my pay grade), upgrade the tires for new (but slightly smaller) white-walled Shinkos, and later get the "tried and true" intake, exhaust, cam, with reflashed ECU if I find that's still too lacking.

My wild side wants new shocks all around, a modest big bore (143 Taka), new fuel controller, new speedo with integrated tach, beefed up clutch and brake system.

If I can get around 12 HP - or more to the point, can get to 65-70 MPH max on gps for short freeway jaunts - then I think I can be happy, as I've accepted the little Monkey as a wonderful, but imperfect and impractical toy. I just want to avoid melting pistons, having to re-map for every special occasion, and adding lbs of oil coolers.

I'm taking the all these mods with a grain of salt, as I know these bikes weren't designed with anything but urban (low speed) riding in mind. I also would really like to keep as much as the stock look (minus those stupidly farkle white side-wall tires). I'd really appreciate any suggestions or ideas, as well.

Thanks!!

- E Razote
 

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I'm in the same boat. Picked mine up on Saturday and now I'm pricing and prioritizing what mods I want first. I just saw preview pics of the up and coming 22 (23?) Monkey and it looks like they're going to be upgrading the new ones with the 5 speed and oil filter, like on the 22 Groms. I don't like the new paint schemes as the "new look" even makes the yellow ones look drab in comparison; there's way too much gray for my liking on the tanks.

The practical side of me says to go with the new clutch cover, maybe the 5 speed (and pay for a licensed mechanic to do the work that's way above my pay grade), upgrade the tires for new (but slightly smaller) white-walled Shinkos, and later get the "tried and true" intake, exhaust, cam, with reflashed ECU if I find that's still too lacking.

My wild side wants new shocks all around, a modest big bore (143 Taka), new fuel controller, new speedo with integrated tach, beefed up clutch and brake system.

If I can get around 12 HP - or more to the point, can get to 65-70 MPH max on gps for short freeway jaunts - then I think I can be happy, as I've accepted the little Monkey as a wonderful, but imperfect and impractical toy. I just want to avoid melting pistons, having to re-map for every special occasion, and adding lbs of oil coolers.

I'm taking the all these mods with a grain of salt, as I know these bikes weren't designed with anything but urban (low speed) riding in mind. I also would really like to keep as much as the stock look (minus those stupidly farkle white side-wall tires). I'd really appreciate any suggestions or ideas, as well.

Thanks!!

- E Razote
Just get a bigger bike. Why waste all that time and money to get to 70mph on a tiny circus bike when for the same price you can get a full-sized 300 or 500cc bike that will go a lot faster than that. Unless you are just one of those guys who likes to mess around with stuff it makes no sense to try to make a Monkey some kind of race bike. If cheap speed is the goal, save your money and get a CB300 or 500.
 

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Just get a bigger bike. Why waste all that time and money to get to 70mph on a tiny circus bike when for the same price you can get a full-sized 300 or 500cc bike that will go a lot faster than that. Unless you are just one of those guys who likes to mess around with stuff it makes no sense to try to make a Monkey some kind of race bike. If cheap speed is the goal, save your money and get a CB300 or 500.
I want to preface this response with, I sincerely appreciate ANY advice regarding bike ownership, and am not trying to sound adversarial. I just want to lend some insight into WHY a Monkey, where there's plenty of bigger bikes to choose from that I don't have to throw more money at for "improvements". It's a valid point that seems to crop up every time I, or others with the same notion, bring up when mentioning wanting to buy more "go fast" parts.

Firstly, no, I'm not trying to create a race bike. If 70 mph is certainly outside of reasonable expectation, then I'd scale it back, but from my understanding, it's not impossible nor is it unreasonable. It's a challenge, I suppose - to see if I can eek out a little more performance out of a little bike with more potential than a 125cc bike should ever have.

Secondly, this is a motorcycle we're talking about here. Of all the irrational, midlife crisis level purchases anyone can make, it's going to be a motorcycle regardless of displacement size. I've already dipped my toe in, might as well go all the way, right?

As for wasting time and money - I agree, completely! Most hobbies are. My other hobbies are expensive guitars and (not horrendously expensive) cars. I've wasted a bunch of money and time in those as well, but don't regret a single penny or second I've enjoyed spending on them (okay if I could take it all back, I would've kept the Miata AND the FJ Cruiser).

The CB300 - I started on a CBR300. And it was great, but boring. The CB500 felt like a bigger CB300. My next bike was a CB1100. I do miss that bike, but 570 lbs is no fun pushing around a garage. I laid it down once, not a bike that's easy to pick up. I managed to and then promptly traded it in. My other bike is a Z900RS. It's a great bike. It's got about 110 horsepower, I've got about about 20 horsepower worth of skill. I love it, but it's more bike than I really need. I might sell it later this year. Maybe I'm a little crazy, but in the past few days I've ridden the little Monkey more than I've ridden the Z in more than a year.

So - to my goal. Pure enjoyment. I intend to get the most out of this little Monkey, but I also intend to impart some of my personality into it.

Do I NEED another 20 horsepower? I'd honestly be happy with about 12-16 total horsepower, but I'm not willing to trade that much reliability for it. I live in a hilly part of the US, so it would be nice to have a little more pulling power and take a freeway for a mile or two, if I needed to.

At idle, the Monkey kinda sounds like my lawnmower (it, too, has a Honda engine), so I gotta trade out the exhaust for something that doesnt sound like I'm on a riding mower.

My list so far (haven't ordered anything yet), and in no particular order:

Intake - not sure
Exhaust - leaning to Yoshi full system - but would like something more stock looking that's similar in performance
Cam - can someone shed some light on this?
ECU Reflash - if I get this, do I still need something like a Power Commander?
Shinko White wall tires (for that classic look)
Clutch cover (for easier oil changes)
Possibly a 5 Speed kit (because 3rd gear is ridiculously long)
Speedo with tach (likely going with the OPMID one)

I'm open to any suggestions, as I'm still researching.

Thanks in advance,

- E Razote
 

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I mostly disagree, I admit they get ridiculously loud when modded for speed but it is definitely worth the effort. I bought a cam, exhaust, intake, and ecu flash from CJR for less than 800 bucks. It made 12.5hp and could bounce off the rev limiter at 76mph. With my current mods, I have been 83mph and I'm still 125cc.
 

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Big bore will make more power everywhere. Mine slaughters stock Monkeys.

Hilarious to read that.

It is a lot of fun to make these bikes faster. Once you upgrade one thing then another needs attention and another.

89592


When the next gen comes out I'll get one and add some light mods but I'd rather keep it reliable and fiddle free.
 

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I'm in the same boat. Picked mine up on Saturday and now I'm pricing and prioritizing what mods I want first. I just saw preview pics of the up and coming 22 (23?) Monkey and it looks like they're going to be upgrading the new ones with the 5 speed and oil filter, like on the 22 Groms. I don't like the new paint schemes as the "new look" even makes the yellow ones look drab in comparison; there's way too much gray for my liking on the tank
Where can we see preview pics and info on the 2022 Monkey?
 

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Where can we see preview pics and info on the 2022 Monkey?
Sorry for hijacking the thread momentarily. (Moderators - if you want me to move this, please ask. I just couldn't think of putting it in an appropriate thread)

Here's the link containing some pre-production pictures of the Asian release of the new Monkey:


I know, I know, the video is cheesy, but the source (Young Machine) is fairly reliable as they posted photos of the new Grom way before the US release. The only difference I saw during the official US unveiling was that we got an SP version (white with graphics, gold forks and rims). Some of the pics are of the current Monkey are intermingled. The new versions are the ones with grey topped tanks and blacked out wheels. If you look closely, the left and right sides of the bike you can clearly see that it looks pretty similar to the '22 Grom's. The right side clearly shows the new port where the oil filter resides. I can't confirm the 5 speed 100%, but the left side's engine casing resembles the '22 Grom's as well. There was a Thai site that had pics of the dash (I couldn't make them out very well, but didn't see changes). I was going to link it, but the page has since disappeared. I tried to use the link I found in my history as I stumbled upon it a few days ago, but it doesn't seem to work anymore. The pics in the video look pretty legit, but I dont think the pics I saw from the Thai site of the dash were accurate at all - or they may be pre-production bikes incorporating the original dash. Anyway, take this with a grain of salt as Young Machine did cover the CBR250RR prior to it's official unveiling, but did not say it was exclusively for the Asian market. For all we know, we could get the same Monkey for another 2 or more years, while Japan, Thailand, and India gets the new one.
 

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Big bore will make more power everywhere. Mine slaughters stock Monkeys.

Hilarious to read that.

It is a lot of fun to make these bikes faster. Once you upgrade one thing then another needs attention and another.

View attachment 89592

When the next gen comes out I'll get one and add some light mods but I'd rather keep it reliable and fiddle free.
Forgive my ignorance, but I think I see an oil catch can, new rearsets, an intake filter, new clutch cover (I'm super jealin' on this setup BTW), but what is that piece of cloth over the head that looks like some poor Scottsman got his Kilt caught up in your motorcycle? Is that some sort of thermal shielding?

Also - that's pretty much what I want out of this bike. Light mods, just to hold speed on various hills and get up to 65ish if I want to take a short highway stint. But I also want to keep it reliable and fiddle free.
 

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For reference. .....
 

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Forgive my ignorance, but I think I see an oil catch can, new rearsets, an intake filter, new clutch cover (I'm super jealin' on this setup BTW), but what is that piece of cloth over the head that looks like some poor Scottsman got his Kilt caught up in your motorcycle? Is that some sort of thermal shielding?

Also - that's pretty much what I want out of this bike. Light mods, just to hold speed on various hills and get up to 65ish if I want to take a short highway stint. But I also want to keep it reliable and fiddle free.
The cloth looking bits are called Lava Tube. It is a fabric heat shielding to keep radiating heat away from the oil lines.

Was running a high pipe that was very close to the oil lines and that helped keep them from burning/overheating oil and lines.
 

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For reference. .....
I still don't believe that video.

Mine with the mods putting out real power with corrected/gps tested top speeds in the low 70's mph and this bike with virtually no mods and an ecu flash is hitting almost 80 mph, calling BS.

Used to have a Yamaha Smax 155 which was water cooled and rated at 15 hp crank, full aero bodywork and it would top out in the low 70's actual speed. Speedo said high 70's though.
 
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