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Well there's your problem, you're using a penny when you should be using a quarter. It only costs 24 more cents you cheap ass :big smile:
 

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Discussion Starter #123
Last night I finished up the Dynojet WBCX install. It's really a simple install and little more than running a cable if you have an O2 bung in your exhaust. It's really a repeat of the PV3 install because it's a similar setup, but the WBCX cable has another connector for that module. Stupidly, the new cable is a couple of feet longer than the PV3 cable. Why? The Grom didn't grow in size and the old cable pretty much reaches from to back. It was asinine IMO for Dynojet to make the cable longer. That's just more cable that you have to hide which sucks on a small bike. I did not have an O2 bung so the first step was bunging said exhaust. Instead of getting the included bung welded to my existing head pipe I bought this pre-bunged section from Yoshimura.

Here's the original RS-2 head pipe versus the bunged version that I just purchased.

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I was having issues lining the exhaust up to the head studs, frame mount and rearset mount all at the same time. Stupid old me forgot to realign the rearset and reinstall the bottom bolt after spinning it out of the way for the oil change! Doh! After I put the rearset back in place the exhaust install was easy and everything fit perfectly like you'd expect from Yoshimura.

Need TP for my bunghole!

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I tried to use stock wire management wherever possible. Here you can see the wideband O2 sensor wire ran alongside the stock, narrowband O2 sensor wire.

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And here's the new O2 sensor wire running next to the coil wire.

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The biggest pain, for me, was deciding what to do with the O2 sensor connector. The O2 sensor wire isn't long so you don't have much room to play. I zip-tied it to this group of cables.

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Here's the wire running out to the bars with the control wires and cables.

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Here's where I hid the extra length of the WBCX cables. All this mess is so unnecessary.

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I Velcroed the WBCX module to the battery strap. I stuck it right in the middle which was stupid of me. I'll have to move it when I want to use my Dragy because I stick it to this metal strap as well.

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I fired up the bike and got this error when trying to set one of the gauges on the PV3 to AFR. Turns out the bike needs to be started rather than just having the switch turned to on before you can set a gauge to AFR.

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After I got the AFR gauge setup I noticed the CEL (Check Engine Light) on the dash was blinking. After a quick once over I realize that I unplugged the IAT sensor when trying to tidy up my wires. Plugging this sensor back in got rid of the CEL.

While I had the right side plastics off I figured I'd take off the left side plastics and correctly install the Outerwears pre-filter on the K&N filter on my Dinger Built intake. Previously I was able to finagle the Outerwears onto the filter, but it wasn't installed correctly. The fairing prevented me from doing this.

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Discussion Starter #124
I then reinstalled all of the plastics and I ran the bike for a short time in the garage to test out the AFR log feature. I let the bike idle to warm it up a bit and then I slowly revved the bike stopping at each 1,000 RPM interval for about 5 seconds. This is my AFR log in WinPEP as well as the tune in the C3 software. I got a lot of learning to do!

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I then used my PV3 to flash the ECU with tune# 1601104. This is for the Yoshimura RS-2 exhaust and the Chimera intake. It works, but not perfectly. The bike is really cold blooded on startup. It'll choke and cough off idle. Even after it's warm it will cough if you open the throttle aggressively from closed.
I went into Idle > Maximum EOT, fast idle valve and changed it from like 65 to 95. In this weather the fast idle valve was closing immediately. Now I can start it up and walk away from it and put my helmet on. It idles around 2000 until the fast idle valve closes, usually about the time I'm out of my driveway.

The bung on my Yoshimura is almost back by the muffler. I don't know if the previous owner had it welded on or if there was a different version.
 

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Discussion Starter #128
That's the way I put it in and it's the only way that makes sense in my opinion. If you flip out over it doesn't mate nicely to the cover.

I went into Idle > Maximum EOT, fast idle valve and changed it from like 65 to 95. In this weather the fast idle valve was closing immediately. Now I can start it up and walk away from it and put my helmet on. It idles around 2000 until the fast idle valve closes, usually about the time I'm out of my driveway.

The bung on my Yoshimura is almost back by the muffler. I don't know if the previous owner had it welded on or if there was a different version.
That's good you solved your issues. I need to figure out why mine coughs at low throttle especially when snapping it wide open.

The earlier RS-2 exhausts didn't come with a bunch so if yours isn't in the same spot as mine it was probably added later by the previous owner.
 

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I would go to Fuel > Throttle Tip-In Enrichment > Tip-In Additive Pulsewidth. Then there's three "In Gear" folders. I'd change the values in the "Tip-in Pulsewidth, Below RPM 1" folders. I'd try multiplying all those values by 1.2 or something, so 0.384 would round up to 0.461
I think that would give you a 20% boost in tip in enrichment. If it makes it worse you can always revert back to the previous map.
 

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Discussion Starter #130
I took off all of last week and Monday and Tuesday of this week. I had vacation days to burn before my work anniversary date. Monday and Tuesday of this week were spent at the Pennsylvania Motorcycle Safety Program's "Total Control Beginner Riding Clinic". It's a beginner's course, paid for by the state, to introduce people to motorcycling and upon successful completion you receive your M endorsement which is your motorcycle license in PA. After about 12 years of riding motorcycles I figured it was time to finally get my license.

The bike I was supplied to me is this white Grom. I was stoked to see that Groms are now part of this program. They are perfect for this class and to introduce people to motorcycling. A classmate, that recently bought a GSX-R 600 as his first bike, could not stop raving about the Grom. He said he was having so much fun and could ride it all day. At one point he even said he wished he had gotten the Grom instead of the Gixxer.

I'm happy to say I am now a license motorcyclist. I also did something at this class that I've never done on my Grom. I scraped pegs numerous times on both sides. I had not done this as of yet on the street on my Grom.





Last week was mainly spent riding and working on the Grom. On Monday and Tuesday I put over 100 miles on it each day. These long rides remind me that I need a seat. The seat that I want has been out of stock for a while and there's a delay in the manufacturing so I'll be waiting longer.

The loudness of the Yoshi RS-2 also got to me. My ears were ringing after a few hours on the bike. The next day I wore earplugs and all was good. The third say I again wore earplugs, but my ears hurt badly. I felt like I was hearing under water and my ears physically hurt. I'm not sure what that's about.

I got my best 1/8th mile when I was out and about - 12.24 seconds @ 50.56 MPH. I'm not a drag racer so being consistent with launches isn't that easy for me, but I'm working on it.




Thursday or Friday it rained so I decided to install the new sprockets and chain.

Here are the parts - Superlite Sprockets, DID 420 NZ3 chain, Superlite black sprocket nuts, and a 12 O'clock Labs SpeedoDRD.




The first thing I did was to remove the chain. I then removed the rear wheel so I could replace the rear sprocket. I weight everything along the way.

The stock rear sprocket is a hefty 1.164 pounds while the Superlite is .582 pounds. That's a reduction of weight by 50%!






The stock 15T sprocket is .240 pounds whereas the 14T Superlite sprocket weighs .180 pounds. That's .06 pounds more weight reduction.






The stock sprocket nuts and the Superlite nuts ended up being the exact same weight which is a bummer.






I did forget to weigh the chains which was a boneheaded move on my part, but with the sprockets alone we lost 0.642 pounds of rotational mass.


The chain I received was cut to 106 links which is the same as stock, but since I was using a smaller sprocket I removed two links off of the chain. The awesome tool from Motion Pro really simplified this job. No grinder necessary.

As they say, hindsight is 20/20 and now I'm not sure I should have removed any links.




Here's the Superlite rear sprocket and nuts installed on the wheel. It looks great.




I didn't take any photos, but I can say that after riding around 300 miles the chain needs to be readjusted. I know that chains break-in and stretch when new, but I hope the adjustment intervals are improved! I'm tired of having to adjust the chain after each ride.

I will say that I'm not sure if I like the 14T front sprocket. The front wheel comes up easily now, which was the original intention, but I seem to have lost a lot of top speed. I understand my speedometer isn't accurate now and I have yet to install the SpeedoDRD, but I used GPS and my bike is now struggling to reach 60 MPH which I don't like. I didn't pay too much attention to comparing my speedometer to GPS with stock gearing, but it should be very close from the factory. Anytime I did compare the speedometer to GPS, with stock gearing, it was within 1 MPH. I've seen 68 MPH on my stock speedo once on flat ground without a full tuck.

So I have to ride a little bit more and see if I like the lower gearing. If I don't I'll probably also have to buy a new chain since I cut it for the 14T gearing.
 

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Question for you 50-50 - In this post you mention that the Dinger Mid intake with a Yoshimura RS2 and one of the 'stock' Power Commander maps doesn't run all that great. I just installed my Yoshimura exhaust, and in my garage waiting for me is a Dinger mid intake and a WB2. I'm delaying installing the WB2 as it seems complicated. Would you advise holding off on installing the intake until I'm ready to do that? I'm not sure if the maps have changed, but I don't see the ID you reference -- I just see #16-049-004 for "Yoshimura full exhaust Stock airbox removed - Pod filter"

Thanks for your advice!

*edit - Just realized you're on the PV3 with WBCX and not the PCV with WB2 - so maps might not be the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #132
Question for you 50-50 - In this post you mention that the Dinger Mid intake with a Yoshimura RS2 and one of the 'stock' Power Commander maps doesn't run all that great. I just installed my Yoshimura exhaust, and in my garage waiting for me is a Dinger mid intake and a WB2. I'm delaying installing the WB2 as it seems complicated. Would you advise holding off on installing the intake until I'm ready to do that? I'm not sure if the maps have changed, but I don't see the ID you reference -- I just see #16-049-004 for "Yoshimura full exhaust Stock airbox removed - Pod filter"

Thanks for your advice!

*edit - Just realized you're on the PV3 with WBCX and not the PCV with WB2 - so maps might not be the same.
Yes, I have the PV3 and WBCX so the maps won't be the same as the PCV.

You can install the intake now and you'll be fine it just won't run with peak performance.

The WB isn't difficult to install. Install the O2 sensor in the exhaust which is easy, assuming you have a bung in your exhaust and you have a correct size wrench or O2 socket. Other than that the WBCX install is basically running wires and finding room for the module. I assume your WB install would be similar. Check YouTube to be sure.
 
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