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Discussion Starter #42 (Edited)
Next up is installing the cable for my PV3 so I can permanently mount it to the handlebars. I can watch the gauges, but since it doesn't have an AFR meter and because the temperatures are wrong I'm not sure what good it is. Everyday that goes buy I question myself why I chose the PV3.

I've barely touched the thing and noticed that the protective cover already tore. WTF. I've reached out to Dynojet to see if the cover can be replaced.




Anyway, let's install this cable because working on the Grom is fun.

First let's remove the side cover. Really, the rear piece is remove first, but I forgot to take photos so oops. You have to remove the rear piece or rear side pieces to remove the front fairings.




OMG what did you do to your Grom?! It's nekkid!




The wires on this Dynojet cable are very thing so I worry about it's long term durability. Here are some photos of it installed.




I tried to keep it away from the silver thing that I assume is the rectifier. I'm not sure how how it gets on a Grom.




I held it in place with zip ties at strategic locations.



Up front I ran it through the same loop as the cables.




That's all for now. It's been raining so much that I haven't been able to ride all week. I hope to get in a good ride or two this weekend. Next up is possibly the airbox mod. I definitely feel like removing the useless backfire screen. But I'm not sure about the inner snorkel. Does removing it cause a loss of bottom end power? I think I'll keep the outer snorkel in place.

I'm also still considering an intake. I'm leaning towards Dinger Built over Chimera, but I don't know if I want short or medium length.
 

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Thanks for the naked Grom posting, I haven't stripped mine down yet, only been doing the prescribed maintenance. When I did the major oil change with the spinner clean out I saw about the same amount of gunk in there as you posted. I defiantly felt like it shifted smoother and it purred like a kitten afterward, these engines like fresh oil!

I had been doing drain and fills up to the case off service at 1k but the clean out really made a difference. 300/600 miles (w/magnetic drain plug).

1k filter screen.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #44
I mounted the PV3 to the bars using Dynojet's mount and a cheap bar mount. It looks fine I think, but it takes up so much room. There isn't much room in the small cockpit of the Grom.

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I didn't want to do the airbox snorkel mod because usually those mods kill lower torque to gain a little on the top end. I did decide to remove the backfire screen because it's not there for any good reason. Will this make a real world difference? Probably not. But it won't hurt.

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And yet another boring picture of my average Grom. LOL I can't help it. I love this thing! My girlfriend calls it "Blueberry" and she is jealous because I pay more attention to my Grom these days.

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Discussion Starter #45
After installing the PV3 I flashed Dynojet map# 1601103. This is for the Yoshimura exhaust with a stock intake and stock cam.

As most of you already know, I found out the Engine Oil Temperature (EOT) gauge on the PV3 is extremely inaccurate. I was getting readings of 260°F so I pulled my Grom over to let it cool down. That's when I discovered my 8 month old iPhone XS Max took a shit. The camera will no longer focus on farther away objects like full bike shots. 10 years of owning Androids and I've never had a hardware failure! So now I have to visit the "geniuses" at the Apple store. But anyway, enough of that.

I decided to get the Opmid sensor to either find out if my bike was overheating or to ease my mind. I got the Gen 2 or 2.0, depending on who sells it, from Hard Racing. I also picked up a JT 14T sprocket, but I'm not going to install that yet.

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It comes with this cheap mount, but it should work fine. The hardware is even cheaper. The screw wasn't even long enough and the nut is a joke (bottom). I grabbed a longer screw and Nyloc nut (top) from my RC hardware box rather than using the shitty nut and Loctite.

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Working on the Grom is easy, but everything seems to require taking off the plastics which is tedious partly because you have to remove the rear section anytime you want to take off a side section. Also, I wish Honda would use hex heads, also known as Allen heads, instead of Phillips screws. Phillips screws should die.

In this install you have to remove the headlight and left side plastics. And this is how the bike looks after you do that. I usually take before photos like this so I can see exactly how the stock wiring was ran. This helps me route aftermarket wiring or get the stock wiring back to where it belongs depending on what I'm doing.

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The instructions suck because 95% of them are written in Japanese. Good thing there are photos, but even those don't help that much in some cases. A little common sense is required for this install. What adds a little confusion is the connectors that Opmid chose to put on their wires. The female connectors for the ground wire (green) and the power from the relay (black) have two spots for male connectors. Only one female connector is required per wire for this install.

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I forgot to take photos of the wiring behind the headlight so we will start at the temperature sensor and work our way up. I don't like that the stock sensor doesn't include a boot like the stock wire. The green and yellow wires are pretty thing to be exposed to the elements and objects from the road. I have to come up with a solution to add some protection here.

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The stock temperature sensor plug connects to the opposite end of the Opmid sensor wire. Then this mass of wires gets run up and tied behind the plastics. I used the stock wire holders as much as possible. In this photo you can see I ran both the stock wire and the Opmid wire through the stock wire loom under what I assume is the evap canister.

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From there I ran the wires behind the stuff in front to get the Opmid wire running alongside the stock wiring hardness to meet up with the wires attached to the headlight relay.

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And here's the meter installed and lit. Did they have to use fugly green for the display? I'd sacrifice a little brightness for a better color. I believe the first generation was blue and I would have much preferred that. Not a big deal though.

Here's where the instructions really sucked and it took me a few minutes to figure out how to set up the gauge.

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I took an almost 2 hour ride the following day. The gauge usually reads around 205°F. The highest I saw was 214°F and that was while idling at a stop light. That can't be a real oil temperature. Oil likes to run above 212°F to evaporate the condensation in the oil. And this is an air cooled engine on a hot day.

Has anybody experienced accuracy issues with the Opmid?
 

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Working on the Grom is easy, but everything seems to require taking off the plastics which is tedious partly because you have to remove the rear section anytime you want to take off a side section. Also, I wish Honda would use hex heads, also known as Allen heads, instead of Phillips screws. Phillips screws should die.
Another reason I don't like SFs that much, I think I can take the side panels off my OG in like 2-3 minutes, I'm sure someone will say they can do it in 38 seconds lol. I never had to take the rear section off, that would take a few more minutes I guess.
And do yourself a favour, don't forget to ''maintain'' the girlfriend... :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Another reason I don't like SFs that much, I think I can take the side panels off my OG in like 2-3 minutes, I'm sure someone will say they can do it in 38 seconds lol. I never had to take the rear section off, that would take a few more minutes I guess.
And do yourself a favour, don't forget to ''maintain'' the girlfriend... :wink:
It probably isn't much more than 3 minutes to remove the plastics on the SF. I'm guessing maybe 5 minutes max. Plus, I prefer the improved and more modern looks of the SF so I think it's worth it.

Eh I'd rather pay attention to my bike! LOL
 

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Here's some more photos of my bike just because I think it's pretty. :cool2:





The Yoshimura RS-2 is turning a nice bronze color.

Over the years the stainless steel head pipe on my DRZ gradually turned black to match the rest of the bike. :) Leave it alone and don't try to polish it with anything or it'll ruin the uniform patina.

IMG_1098.JPG
 

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It probably isn't much more than 3 minutes to remove the plastics on the SF. I'm guessing maybe 5 minutes max. Plus, I prefer the improved and more modern looks of the SF so I think it's worth it.

Eh I'd rather pay attention to my bike! LOL
Oh ok, from your post and others I was under the impression that it was more like a 15 minute job, 3 minutes isn't that bad!
I hope she doesn't read this... :haha:
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Oh ok, from your post and others I was under the impression that it was more like a 15 minute job, 3 minutes isn't that bad!
I hope she doesn't read this... :haha:
It's something like 16 screws to get all of the plastics off. You don't usually need to take out that many screws unless you want take off both side shrouds. Going off of memory, the rear assembly, which I believe is 3 pieces of plastic that are bolted together, comes off with 8 screws. Then each side comes off with 4 screws.

Haha!
 

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Discussion Starter #51 (Edited)
I think I'm going to buy another chain and sprockets (14T front and 34T rear) for my Grom. I'd rather do that than have to adjust it often.

Which chain is the most durable - meaning it has the least amount of stretch? I do want to stay with a 420 change and I am set on that. No 428 for me.

Also, which front AND rear sprockets are the lightest?
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Yesterday I rode my Buell to work. It takes me a little time to adjust to my Buell after riding the Grom. The Buell is everything that the Grom isn't - heavy, powerful, and the clutch grabs right away whereas the Grom is feather light, anemic, and the clutch doesn't grab until you nearly let go of the clutch lever. This makes adjusting to the Buell "fun" because you have instant torque and tons of it nearly as soon as you start releasing the clutch lever. If you ride the Buell like the Grom, with a fistful of throttle while you plan to release the clutch for a long time before it engages, you'd be on your ass. You have to be very smooth on the Buell which is something that isn't required on the Grom. You can ride the Grom as haphazardly as can be.

Anyway, after work I put my Buell in the garage and rode my Grom to Spud's in Kutztown with a friend on his Harley. It is about a half hour from my house and the route is mostly twisty back roads which is perfect.

We were lucky enough to find parking spots on the street directly across from Spud's. No, we are not getting our hair did.




I also got a fun package in the mail from Webike. I have to say the shipping was inexpensive (I pay more to ship from Hard Racing in Florida or any of the other Grom-specific vendors!) and insanely fast. I placed the order on Saturday, July 6th at 3:47 AM (yes, I was awake way too late) and it arrived yesterday on July 10th! That's super impressive! There are US retailers that don't ship that fast. It was also packaged well unlike some vendors (*cough* Amazon *cough*). It's the Yoshimura ST-1M cam. I'm all about low and mid range power and I've read this cam is one of the best for that. Webike was having a 4th of July sale and the price was unbeatable - $176.23 shipped. I've never seen the ST-1M cam under $200 before.

Photos of the unassuming box. I'm staying on the race track...I promise. :crazy:




Thankfully, I did not pay $21,000 nor 21,000 yen.




And here's the came itself still in the bag. I didn't want to take it out of the bag. I'll keep it sealed in its oil bath to prevent corrosion.




I am awaiting Dinger Built mid-length intakes to come back in stock. The cam may go in after that.
 

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Yesterday I rode my Buell to work. It takes me a little time to adjust to my Buell after riding the Grom. The Buell is everything that the Grom isn't - heavy, powerful, and the clutch grabs right away whereas the Grom is feather light, anemic, and the clutch doesn't grab until you nearly let go of the clutch lever. This makes adjusting to the Buell "fun" because you have instant torque and tons of it nearly as soon as you start releasing the clutch lever. If you ride the Buell like the Grom, with a fistful of throttle while you plan to release the clutch for a long time before it engages, you'd be on your ass. You have to be very smooth on the Buell which is something that isn't required on the Grom. You can ride the Grom as haphazardly as can be.

Anyway, after work I put my Buell in the garage and rode my Grom to Spud's in Kutztown with a friend on his Harley. It is about a half hour from my house and the route is mostly twisty back roads which is perfect.
Same with my CBR. I'd get on and first the seating position throws you off, then the clutch grab, and the throttle response. Everything feels so much..... tighter. If you give it WOT like the grom you're gonna have a bad time. Or a really short good time depending on your appetite for thrill.

We were lucky enough to find parking spots on the street directly across from Spud's. No, we are not getting our hair did.
So you were getting new wigs?
 

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Oh 50-50 I forgot I wanted to ask how hard it is to find a front rotor for the Buell? I've never seen something like that. Any other hard to find parts?
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Oh 50-50 I forgot I wanted to ask how hard it is to find a front rotor for the Buell? I've never seen something like that. Any other hard to find parts?
The brake disc is a stock piece and not hard to find at all. It's not cheap though at around $325 though! Every part that I've looked for, which hasn't been too many, can be found new so I wouldn't say there are many hard to find parts for the XB Buells at this point. But they are very reliable and durable bikes believe it or not so you shouldn't need parts often.

My biggest concern is the future availability of the tank (really an airbox cover) and front wind screen plastic piece especially the translucent colors like the Cherry Bomb Red on mine.
 

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I am awaiting Dinger Built mid-length intakes to come back in stock. The cam may go in after that.
You must be the most patient Gromer ever lol I'd have the cam in before the delivery guy even took off!
I have the same cam and like it a lot, I tried a TB cam for a while but just couldn't stand the delivery, felt like nothing happened before 7K. I went back to the Yoshimura cam and I'm happy to trade a few mph for rideability. Plus the fact the TB cam is not a regrind but it's shaped like one, that's just stupid. At least it's very cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
You must be the most patient Gromer ever lol I'd have the cam in before the delivery guy even took off!
I have the same cam and like it a lot, I tried a TB cam for a while but just couldn't stand the delivery, felt like nothing happened before 7K. I went back to the Yoshimura cam and I'm happy to trade a few mph for rideability. Plus the fact the TB cam is not a regrind but it's shaped like one, that's just stupid. At least it's very cheap.
Haha! I'm typically a very impatient person. The Grom is slow so it forces you to be patient when riding it. I've also been patient with installing the mods so I can get a good feel on the old butt dyno as well as some performance numbers in my "Dragy" device before performing an additional modification. I would like to put on the intake before the cam anyway. I may also install the 14T front sprocket before the cam. To be determined...
 

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I also got a fun package in the mail from Webike. I have to say the shipping was inexpensive

yep I alway scan JapanWebike for deals and I always find good deals and shipping is fast, that is how I got my 5-Axis ported 181-4v Takegawa kit, cylinder/piston/5-axis head/cam/inlet tube for $995 including shipping.

Another good vendor is TYGA of Thailand, good prices fast shipping
 
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