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Discussion Starter #1
I've had a Honda CRF50 since about 2007 when pit bikes were still a big thing. Make Pit Bikes Great Again! I set my 50 up for mild street stunt - wheelies and stoppies. You can see my 50 here alongside my 2007 Buell XB12 Scg Lightning. I bought both bikes new and still own them. The Buell was my first and only street bike until I got the Grom.




Ever since I got the 50 I wanted a street legal pit bike. Enter the Grom in 2014. When the Grom was released I was simply enthralled by it! I knew I'd have to have one. Other things kept coming up that I wanted more than the Grom and I had the Buell to keep me content.

Late last year I decided I was going to buy a Grom this spring or summer.

Enter this year and a 15% off eBay coupon in March. That's when my build officially started because I purchased the Yoshimura RS-2 exhaust system. Yep, I had my exhaust almost two months before I bought my Grom.




I've been wanting a red Grom, but I don't like the 2019 shade of red as much as I liked the red of previous years. The Blue Raspberry, which I probably would have hated a few years ago, is now sort of my favorite color. Because of this I decided to go with this blue. I had off Good Friday so I went shopping. Blackman's didn't want to deal. They told me $4,000 OTD for a 2018 without ABS. Martin's told me $3,851.34 OTD for a 2019 non-ABS. Non ABS is a must on a Grom IMO. So I put down $200 so Martin's could order a blue bike for me. On Tuesday I got the call that the bike was in. My girlfriend, who isn't a fan of my motorcycles to begin with, was sick, but she was patient enough to spend almost 3 hours at Martin's. They were jammed packed and selling a lot of bikes that day and I arrived late so I was last on the list.

Anyway, here's my bike as it sat in the dealer's lot before my ride home. It was darker than the picture would lead you to believe so on my first ride I got to test out the headlights. They were much better than expected for being so small.




And the bike the next morning before and after my ride to work. You've all seen Groms by now and most of you own them, but you know how it goes. This is mine so I'm proud of it!






The plan is to do some cosmetic mods (fender eliminator, removing reflectors and warning decals, maybe some levers, etc) installing the Yoshi exhaust, maybe an intake, maybe a cam and definitely a fuel controller.

Which chemicals do you guys use to remove the glue from the safety warning stickers? I know of Goo Gone, but there has to be some other stuff for plastics.

And what do you use to clean your plastics?
 

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Nice pick up.. I used goo gone forever followed up by alcohol to remove stickers on all my bikes.
I also have a CRF50 stunted out i love that thing, soo much fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Nice pick up.. I used goo gone forever followed up by alcohol to remove stickers on all my bikes.
I also have a CRF50 stunted out i love that thing, soo much fun.
Do you have pictures of your "fiddy" online? I'd love to see it.


Nice pick up!!! I swear by the 3m eraser tool that you stick on a drill... Leaves no scratches whatsoever.
That seems like overkill for stickers on a new bike that should, theoretically, come off easily. It doesn't scratch or melt plastic?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Stage 1 of my build was to eliminate that massive and fugly stock, rear fender. Not your typical Stage 1. I remember when they started putting these stupid things on sport bikes. They were about 12" to 18" of plastic on a fullsize bike. But this on a tiny bike like the Grom is insanity.

After lots of research I decided to go with the Yoshimura kit. I like that it used the stock turn signals as I am not a fan of turn signals integrated into the taillight. I also liked the fact that this kit comes with a very small, LED licences plate light. Most of the others use the large, stock license plate light which is kind of an eyesore.

Thanks to eBay the Yoshi fender eliminator kit got to my house in 2 days.




I often try to take lots of photos when building. It helps me remember how things went together if I forget. Photos also seem to come in handy down the line. Plus, they are great for posting on forums like this. In this case I was in a rush to get the kit installed so I didn't take as many photos as I intended.

This, as we know, is how the Grom SF (does that stand for Street Fighter?). The license plate was blacked out because that's what we do. I'm not sure why we do it, but we do. Sorry for the lighting. The iPhone does not take photos as great as people had me convinced when I made the switch...




Let's remove that plastic hunk of crap.




This is what the bike looks like after the removal of the stock fender. So much cleaner just like that!




You have to disassemble the stock fender in order to access the nuts to free the stock turn signals and also to free the stock wiring harness. When I opened this up I was shocked that it had a steel tube frame. Honda is all about high quality and overbuilding things, but this is ridiculous! I wanted to weigh all this stuff I removed, but didn't get a chance. I'm guessing it's around 2 pounds.




In this photo you'll see all of the parts of the fender eliminator that are unused as well as the orange reflectors from the sides of the front fender.




Here's how I ran my wires under the seat. I was careful to keep them away from getting pinched once the seat is installed. Yoshi kindly included three zip ties. My dealer was cool enough to install a battery tender lead (unless they all do that) and you can see that tucked down in the storage compartment.




And here it is installed. I didn't realize the turn signals brackets are held onto the bike by way of the license and license plate cover. Had I known this I may have went with another kit. As long as everything stays tight I don't think it'll be an issue.

At first I did something incorrectly because the rear turn signals would blink, but they wouldn't stay illuminated like marker lights. After asking on here I learned it was just my newbness. The rear turn signals do not stay illuminated whereas the front ones do. Odd.




And here's a side view. It looks so, so much better. The bike even looks lighter with this mod.

I was thinking of going with Yoshi turn signals because they are sequential, but I'm not sure that would actually work on the Grom. Plus, I don't mind the stock turn signals at all.




I also added a Yoshi keychain. I usually take all the keychains off my motorcycles because they just flap around in the wind, but this one was too cool to not pick up and give it a shot. We'll see how long it stays before annoying me.

 

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Hell yeah another grom stunt build! Don't forget to get a stunt oil pump and a billet clutch plate for it so it doesn't starve for oil during long wheelies. Nice find, the blue looks really good! Also the stock plate holder thingy is super fun to scrape... shave that thing down before you do the fender eliminator!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I hit 118 miles on my Grom this weekend. I'm having a blast. I can't wait to ride it again! The weather hasn't been cooperating. It's been raining too often or I'd have at least double the mileage on it. I filled up for the tank first time as well even though I had a bar or two left. Not yet sure how much range I get from one bar.

I plan to change the oil soon - so somewhere between 100 and 200 miles. I just want to get out the major chunks of metal. I ordered a Gold Plug magnetic drain plug to install when I change the oil. Never used a magnetic drain plug before, but I find them interesting.

The engine is broken in enough for me. I really don't think a small, high revving engine like this needs 500 miles to break in. Maybe somebody has Dyno curves to show otherwise.

But because the engine is no longer brand new I think I'm going to start the mechanical mods. The Yoshi exhaust will be installed first. Maybe this weekend or so. I plan to install exhaust and an ECM on my Buell this weekend before I work on the Grom.

Today I ordered the Power Vision 3 along with the shift shaft support from Hard Racing. Maybe the PV3 is too expensive and more than what I need, but I trust Dynojet and they've proven themselves for decades. Maps also tend to be most prevalent for Dynojet products. Plus, there are local Dyno tuning centers should I ever feel the need. And I think the Grom shifter is fine if a little mushy, but this Hard Racing support bracket sure isn't going to hurt. I also plan to replace the stock shift linkage with heim joints like others have done. I think the bigger issue with the Grom transmission is sloppy shifting from the riders which leads to jumping out of gears, but that's my two cents.

I really want to find a way to make the clutch not suck balls. I've been riding street motorcycles for over 10 years and manual clutch ATVs since the 90's, but somehow the Grom clutch makes me feel like a beginner that doesn't know WTH he's doing. It engages way too far out. Because of this I tend to apply the throttle too early so I'm using more revs than needed and also riding the clutch because it's hard to feel the engagement. The super quiet, stock exhaust also makes it difficult to hear when the revs drop due to the clutch engaging especially when I'm giving it more throttle than what is needed. And not having much torque compounds my problem with the "feel" of the clutch engagement. Shifting and downshifting are also sometimes jerky because I'm so used to having a clutch engage much closer to the bars. Any suggestions how to fix this???
 

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groms are like a hot chick, can't wait to see her, touch her, and what ever.

In the real grom world, ride it like you stole it

Ride safe
 

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And I think the Grom shifter is fine if a little mushy, but this Hard Racing support bracket sure isn't going to hurt. I also plan to replace the stock shift linkage with heim joints like others have done.
The helm joints mod is cheap and made a great difference on mine, really recommend it!

I really want to find a way to make the clutch not suck balls. I've been riding street motorcycles for over 10 years and manual clutch ATVs since the 90's, but somehow the Grom clutch makes me feel like a beginner that doesn't know WTH he's doing. It engages way too far out. Because of this I tend to apply the throttle too early so I'm using more revs than needed and also riding the clutch because it's hard to feel the engagement. The super quiet, stock exhaust also makes it difficult to hear when the revs drop due to the clutch engaging especially when I'm giving it more throttle than what is needed. And not having much torque compounds my problem with the "feel" of the clutch engagement. Shifting and downshifting are also sometimes jerky because I'm so used to having a clutch engage much closer to the bars. Any suggestions how to fix this???
You're exactly describing what I don't like with the stock clutch. Order a Kitaco 60% stiffer clutch springs set (about 15-20$ for all 6!) and replace either 3 springs (the ones under the bolts) or all 6.
I personally use 3 stiffer springs on the 125 and the feel is so much better, makes the engagement point very easy to find and to work with.
For the rest I'm using a stock plate and stock discs, never had an issue with those.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
The helm joints mod is cheap and made a great difference on mine, really recommend it!
Good to know about the heim joint link. I definitely plan to do that mod.

You're exactly describing what I don't like with the stock clutch. Order a Kitaco 60% stiffer clutch springs set (about 15-20$ for all 6!) and replace either 3 springs (the ones under the bolts) or all 6.
I personally use 3 stiffer springs on the 125 and the feel is so much better, makes the engagement point very easy to find and to work with.
For the rest I'm using a stock plate and stock discs, never had an issue with those.
Thank you! That information really helps. I saw there are a lot of clutch spring options - Barnett, EBC, Sex Machine, Kitaco offers springs with various stiffness, etc. I just wasn't sure which stiffness I want to get. I want an improvement in clutch engagement and feel without having a super stiff clutch.

One thing that seems to be popping up is that I have noticed that sometimes I think I've down shifted all the way to 1st when I'm coming to a stop. I keep pushing down on the lever to make sure it's in 1st. But when I go to pull out I notice it's not in first gear so I have to click down on the lever again and then I feel it going into first. Anybody experiencing this? What gives?
 

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I would suggest skipping the heim joint mod and going right for the TBparts shifter. That plus the hard racing shift shaft support bracket makes it a totally different bike.

And David is on point, get the stiffest spring you can buy which I think is the 60%. Pair that with the billet plate and you're ready to pop wheelies without worry of breaking the cast plate.

Don't forget the stunt oil pump either! Super important piece of the puzzle.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I would suggest skipping the heim joint mod and going right for the TBparts shifter. That plus the hard racing shift shaft support bracket makes it a totally different bike.

And David is on point, get the stiffest spring you can buy which I think is the 60%. Pair that with the billet plate and you're ready to pop wheelies without worry of breaking the cast plate.

Don't forget the stunt oil pump either! Super important piece of the puzzle.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
I don't like the idea of bolting a shifter right onto the shift shaft. Street bikes have linkages to protect the shift shaft in a crash. Dropping a bike onto the shift lever that is bolted directly to the shift shaft can cause a lot of damage. That's not a risk I'm willing to take. I'll live with the upgrade linkage and HR support bracket.

I did run to my local Ace Hardware and they have lots of hardware, but they did not have small heim joints so I'll have to order the parts online.

I don't know that I'll be stunting the Grom enough to need the oil pump with the tube, but I am keeping that in mind. Are there any brands besides Straight Up?
 

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I don't like the idea of bolting a shifter right onto the shift shaft. Street bikes have linkages to protect the shift shaft in a crash. Dropping a bike onto the shift lever that is bolted directly to the shift shaft can cause a lot of damage. That's not a risk I'm willing to take. I'll live with the upgrade linkage and HR support bracket.

I did run to my local Ace Hardware and they have lots of hardware, but they did not have small heim joints so I'll have to order the parts online.

I don't know that I'll be stunting the Grom enough to need the oil pump with the tube, but I am keeping that in mind. Are there any brands besides Straight Up?
I totally understand that part of it. For what its worth, the shifter has a foldable end, just like a dirtbike does.

Even just the bracket will make you feel like you're riding a different bike. Big positive difference for sure.

There are a few, I'm partial to straight up pumps though. He is a forum member, and does excellent work. I was impressed with the turnaround time, and the fit and finish as well. Same pump is still going strong no issues to report.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #16
This morning I ordered the Chimera clutch lifter spring plate and Sex Machine 30% springs. I've read lots of bad about the Koso plate so I avoided that. And 60% springs seem like overkill on a stock engine. I will find out. But I figured I might as well install these parts when I tear off the side cover for the first oil change.
 

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This morning I ordered the Chimera clutch lifter spring plate and Sex Machine 30% springs. I've read lots of bad about the Koso plate so I avoided that. And 60% springs seem like overkill on a stock engine. I will find out. But I figured I might as well install these parts when I tear off the side cover for the first oil change.
I ran all six 60% springs when my grom was stock bore, it was perfect when paired with the RSC clutch perch.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I ran all six 60% springs when my grom was stock bore, it was perfect when paired with the RSC clutch perch.
With an EZ clutch I'm sure. I'm still on the stock levers and not sure what I want to switch to. Springs are cheap enough to replace them if the 30% isn't stiff enough for me. I think the RSC stuff is expensive for not offering adjustability of lever position like ASV, CRG, Pazzo, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
I ordered the Vagabond fender kit, it should be here by Friday!

Can't wait :cool2:

https://www.vagabondmotorsports.com/collections/honda-grom-2017/products/honda-grom-2017-fender-eliminator

Looks like a nice piece! I like how the turn signal mount is integrated into the bracket. I wish the Yoshi was like that.

So the post office tried to deliver my PV3. Apparently Hard Racing requires a signature which 1. is retarded and 2. I didn't see them state ANYWHERE that a signature was required. I'm annoyed to say the least. You spend almost $450 with them, don't get free shipping (every other place I shop would give free shipping after spending a half of that or less) and then they don't tell you that a signature is required. The customer service was excellent before the order though. They answered all my questions. And they preload the maps onto the PV3. And that's why I went with them.
 
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