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Wouldn't hurt. Mine weren't even out on the initial service. They'll probably be out somewhat by 2.5K.

It takes about a half hour to do it. If a dealer is charging you a full hour they're gouging.

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yea check em and were good on valves. The front forks are still the same im happy with them. And imma quit using hondas new 10-30w last friday i went and did sum hot laps in a housing development and my shit got hot. Wouldnt even go into nuetral or second sitting a slight roll yea. So i talked to my new bell ray rep and explained the color and how often i change the oil he said im burning the shit out of it and the paste shit in the centrifigal thing. So imma run bell ray exp semi 10-30. And let yall know how that does. Anyone else seeing good bad with there oil
 

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Semi-synthetic from what I read can mean almost anything. You can buy full synthetic such as Rotella T6 for $21 a gallon at Walmart. That's what I use in all my bikes. It has the JASO MA rating too which means it is approved for wet clutches. If heat is a problem, just go to a full synthetic to be sure. There are others of course and Bell Ray makes a full synthetic 5W40 same weight as the Rotella T6. I don't know if it is JASO MA though.
 

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I am using Honda GN4 and had changed the oil 3 or 4 times by the time I hit 1,600 miles. Every single time I was surprised how dark and dirty my oil was. Seriously thinking about switching to full synthetic to see if I get better results. I have never had an issue with the oil overheating though.
 

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You guys are driving it well! good job, thats what they are ment for. I'd have more than 35 miles on mine if I wasn't sharing drive time with my other new toy. The weather also turned for the worse here, so probably won't get it out until spring next year. These things are ideal for town/city driving.

Here she sits beside my some of my other minis:

 

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It's not recommended to use full synthetic on a brand new motor, it's too slippery to allow the parts to "wear in" properly. You can buy special "break in oil" for rebuilds and such that's actually a little worse than regular oil to help things seat in faster, then change to whatever you want. Most bikes come from the factory with OEM brand 10-40 and yeah, the first oil change is usually pretty nasty, totally normal.

Even with the JASO MA certification, some full synthetics seem to be bad news for wet clutches. Mobil 1 4T seems to be a recurring culprit for clutch slippage despite being marketed as a motorcycle specific oil. I've used the Rotella T6 in all my bikes for years with good results. Diesel oil is more tolerant of heat than regular oils(good for air cooled engines), and contains more ZDDP(a extreme pressure lubricant), which is good for compact cassette transmissions.

The valves on a Grom are stupid easy compared to a I4 and should take maybe 20 minutes to do with basic hand tools and a feeler gauge. Even still, Honda bikes are known for rarely if ever needing valve adjustments. I'd check it after the 2500 mile "break in" period, and not give it much thought after that.
 
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