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Discussion Starter · #65 · (Edited)
The Ohlins oil reservoir bracket wouldn't fit as it uses the same 2 mounting bolt points as the frame slider bracket. I added a couple 3/4" spacers in between the brackets to move the can a little further out to resolve the fitment issue. I made due with 2 longer temporary bolts because of the added spacers until I can clean it up with some better looking cap screws with hex heads with the same appropriate length. I moved the can as for forward in its metal ring holder leaving a 1/4" gap between it and the frame slider so nothing interferes with the other.

Moving the can outward for the 2 brackets to share the same mounting bolt points presented a new issue when I was putting the 3 bolt triangular side cover back on. The stainless steel braided oil line wouldn't let it mount flush because it was mounted 3/4" out further then it was meant to. I cut a little notch out of the side cover plastic so the oil line could pass through. Luckily this was an easy solution, ...almost elegant in its simplicity.

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I still need to get a grommet to clean it up. I'll cut the grommet open and use a dab of silicone to adhere it to the 3 sides of the plastic side cover notch out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
Checking in... last week I found the front suspension "wanting" after riding with the new rear suspension installed the prior weekend. So here are some pics of the front forks getting some attention.

All set to begin
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The front triple tree stand from Pitbull works nicely on the Grom if you angle (bend) the horn bracket over a smidge.

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Discussion Starter · #68 · (Edited)
The front stand also makes for a convenient location for support to get the front brake capillar out of the way so it's not dangling by the brake line when removing the wheel

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
The right fork leg presented as the rebound side after I got into it

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Having this kind of stand made things really easy

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Discussion Starter · #70 · (Edited)
I emptied 220 ml of OEM oil from each fork leg

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Edit: All the babble about instructions below are rantings from a madman - pay no attention

Interestingly the Ohlins instructions (by the way it's the new FDK112 cartridge valve spring kit I installed) called for 220 ml (in section 3.9 page 7) to fill the legs back up with but the Hard Racing video on this kit directs you to use 235 ml. The video was instruction from the prior generation Grom FDK111 kit and they just spliced in new snippets for the updated parts for Ohlins newest 112 Grom kit. I looked on Ohlins site where you can download the instruction manuals for their kits and it does state 235 ml for that FDK111 kit.

So I emailed Hard Racing on a Saturday (when they were closed) and they replied same day stating they always use 235 ml and haven't got any negative feedback with their customers using 235 ml, ever.

What had me concerned was in their latest video, in one of the updated inserted snippets they added, at 18:07 they show a page from the new FDK112 instruction manual and while they were clarifying something unrelated, I paused it and could clearly read section 3.9 of their instruction manual where Ohlin states to fill with 235 ml. And yet my Ohlins instructions section 3.9 states 220 ml. I looked at the Ohlins published manual for the 112 kit online on their site and my FDK112 instructions match it, 220 ml.


So something is going on there with 2 different FDK112 Ohlins instruction manuals. I decided to fill with 230 ml (shakes head and shrugs) and see how that feels when it's not snowing and I can test the new front suspension. Worst case scenario I'll loosen the top of the fork bracket unscrew the caps and add 5 ml ...or syringe out 10 ml, if I feel something needs to change :rolleyes:



EDIT :

I just figured this instruction thing out that had me confused when I did my installation. The Hard Racing video I watched for the FDK112 Ohlins kit installation was basically an older generation Ohlins FDK101 video with snippets added for the new FDK112 series differences added in. The portion of this video where I read section 3.9 with 235 ml of oil to add was from 7 years ago! I found that original installation video and a great portion of it is being used for the current updated FDK112 suspension. The prior 2 generation Groms do call for 235 ml of fork oil in the Ohlins instructions.

The HR FDK112 install video does not instruct to use 220 ml of fluid to refill each fork leg. Ohlins instructions state to use 220 ml for their FDK112 kit which was designed with the 3rd generation Grom model in mind. The 2022 Grom service manual lists the fork oil fluid capacity as 221 ml +/- 1.5 ml.

The newest HR FDK112 video starts out showing all the pieces of the newest kit including the front page of the Instruction Manual (FDK112) but then later shows pages from the FDK101 video installation where 235 ml is called for in section 3.9 of the Ohlins instructions which was good for the prior generation Grom models. Watching this in the FDK112 video had me so confused at the time as the gal performing the installation procedure was saying to use 235 ml when she filled the upgraded forks leading me to use 230 ml as I couldn't decide at the time (a place holder amount as it turned out).

I'm thinking the Ohlins FDK112 instructions on page 7 section 3.9 with 220 ml is the way I'll go as I actually measured the same 220 ml amount when emptying the factory oil on the 2022 Grom. I'll let Hard Racing know and perhaps they may edit their FDK112 installation video to match Ohlins instruction capacity of 220 ml for the 3rd generation model, or not. So I think I'll be getting an oil syringe or something to remove 10ml from under each fork cap and stick with what Ohlins says to use. 😬

Edit: A modified turkey baster with some scrap air line tubing from an old aquarium made short work of removing 10 ml under the fork cap from each fork leg.
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
A picture of no weight on stock forks where the black zip tie shows rider sag. Or maybe I was pushing down, Shame I don't remember exactly which.

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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
New Ohlins FDK112 kit installed - rider sag blue zip tie.

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I'm 176 pounds and used the 5.5 springs with 15mm of spacers on each leg for preload. The kit comes with spacers allowing you to use 10, 15, or 20mm for preload adjustment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #73 · (Edited)
So I used some high temp bearing grease to put a nice seal at the bottom of the forks as I had seen done in a video where when you push down rapidly and it sucks it all in and leaves behind a clean fork leg.

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Well, yeah, I gobbed too much on there to make that trick work as nicely as I had seen done ...and it left a ring at the bottom of the travel, but at least you can see how far I can push them down standing next to the bike in the garage, I wanted to show that with a zip tie but forgot. 😬

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Edit: I should mention I wasn't holding the front brake lever in when I compressed the forks as for as I could make them go. My bad
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
I did want to mention that at one stage in the Hard Racing installation video they show how to use a torch to turn the factory loctite to powder in the fork bottom with heat. I used 2 $9 harbor freight heat guns in unison and got the right rebound side to come loose after 10 minutes of heating. It took almost 20 minutes for the left compression side as it was pretty stingy to give way.

The front suspension install was time well spent in the garage tinkering on a lazy weekend afternoon, the kind of times I always cherish

Nothing really new to show on the bike this upgrade ...and I think I'm where I want to be with it.

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So I know what happens next. I'll want to go faster with it now. But that's never what I had in mind with this bike as it's fast enough for my enthusiastic simple style of riding and I will never forget what it is. I don't track, I just like to shamble around empty rural back roads far away from cars and traffic and live in the moment as the delightful cathartic experience it is

And that's pretty much what I hope to keep doing :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
My dealer always calls me instantly first when any kind of 125cc Honda shows up, I’m putting him on ignore after this LOL

I don’t "need" another Grom but didn’t resist strongly. To justify the addition I’ll keep this one looking stock as an understated and quiet mile muncher to commute with, no flashy bits or bling bait that invite the wrong kind of attention, but maybe just a few appropriate mods to make it suitable to me.

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Sweet looking black bike! Congrats!! Does it shift from first to neutral easily?I just purchased a blue ABS model and it does not like going into neutral.I do not have a single mile on it yet though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
Sweet looking black bike! Congrats!! Does it shift from first to neutral easily?I just purchased a blue ABS model and it does not like going into neutral.I do not have a single mile on it yet though.
Haven't ridden it yet, it has .2 miles.

That's not uncommon. On my SP it's the same. You'll learn when in first to just lightly feather up on the shift lever to hit neutral and if you go too far and hit 2nd feather down and look for the green N light. It's something I've accepted after 6800 miles on the SP and don't think about anymore.
 

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Haven't ridden it yet, it has .2 miles.

That's not uncommon. On my SP it's the same. You'll learn when in first to just lightly feather up on the shift lever to hit neutral and if you go too far and hit 2nd feather down and look for the green N light. It's something I've accepted after 6800 miles on the SP and don't think about anymore.
So it has not got any better with mileage or an oil change to remove the factory oil?
 
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