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Discussion Starter #1
So i've owned the bike for a little over a month and a half now. Purchased it bone stock, "used" for 2k with 57mi on the clock. Bike was pristine.




Some of the first mods I did were: Fork Mod W/Maxima 15w oil, TST fender delete, w/integrated lights front n rear, Toce exhaust, 14T Sprocket, and a 12oclockLabs speedo recal. I don't have detailed pics of everything, but I found the fork mod and all the installs pretty straight forward thanks to all the Youtube videos.






The exhaust along with the 14T sprocket really helped the bike out a lot. Felt much torquier in the bottom end and acceleration was much quicker. Climbing hills that I would normally have to downshift on were easy to pull through even in 4th gear.

Next Mods: Kitaco Clutch cover, Koso clutch plate, Koso 60% stiffer clutch springs, Takegawa high flow oil pump, Chimera intake, CJR ECU reflash, Protaper klx110 bars, Pro grip 714's w/ quick throttle, MZS levers, and a ram mount.

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Later on I installed a TB cam. Install was pretty easy thanks again to Youtube. I only had a re-flashed ECU for my intake and exhaust so I ended up getting it re-flashed again for the cam. Overall impression, I feel like I gained a lot of top end but loss low end. Anything below 5k feels meh, but 6k and up it screams all the way up to 10k easily.




It was time to do something about the suspension and tires. I ended up doing front and rear ohlins, P/N (fdk111) 5.5kg for the fronts, Kenda Kd1's 120/70/12 & 130/70/12, also went with oem enkei wheels in Gold
while I was at it, ordered an OTB chain adjuster, womtech front n rear axel sliders w/ rear spool.






With the new suspension and tires it feels like a totally different bike. The difference is night and day. Carving through canyons is so much funner and I have way more confidence entering and exiting through turns unlike before.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Next to upgrade were brakes. I didn't feel the need to upgrade calipers or rotors, so I ended up going with some SS lines from core moto and ebc brake pads.
overall I was happy with that decision because those two upgrades alone made a huge difference in braking power.






I also got around to installing a few items from Hard Racing. Engine Brace, Shift support lever, and Two Brothers billet alum pegs


Stay tuned for more mods!
 

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Awesome build man. Reminds me of my build prior to the engine build and trans upgrade. I will say that the DHM piston will give you that low end grunt back that you lost with the TB cam. If you plan on keeping the stock rearsets, look into doing the shift linkage heim joint mod. It takes all the slop out of the stock shifter linkage and tightens it up a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Awesome build man. Reminds me of my build prior to the engine build and trans upgrade. I will say that the DHM piston will give you that low end grunt back that you lost with the TB cam. If you plan on keeping the stock rearsets, look into doing the shift linkage heim joint mod. It takes all the slop out of the stock shifter linkage and tightens it up a lot.
Thanks! Yea I don’t plan on keeping the rear sets, there definitely limiting me from getting my lean on with the pegs so low. I put an order on some Gcraft rear sets from webike, not sure how long those will take to get to me with this whole quarantine thing though.

About the DHM piston, I wish I knew about them sooner because I put an order on the finbro ported head and high compression piston and koso 34 mm TB from hard racing, and seen that the DHM piston actually has higher compression 13:1 compared to finbro 11.8:1. I’m really thinking about swapping to the DHM but I seen there sold out , and I already have the finbro on the way ..
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Update:
I received my Tyga seat cowl and under belly cowl. I could not get the seat cowl to line up with the mounts properly. I made all the adjustments necessary to try and get it to align and also had to trim some plastic off the rear of the cowl. I was still able to get it on, but wasn't the perfect fit like I thought it would be . Also come to find out, I ordered the wrong under cowl. The under cowl I got was for an under belly exhaust. And for future reference, if you decide to use this under cowl and your using a shift support bracket (Im using Hard Racings) it will not mount up because of the spacers so I ended up removing the shift support bracket to be able to mount the cowl.



Here's how she looks:


Probably gonna end up removing the under cowl



I also got my High Compression kit in today:
-Finbro ported head W/piston
-Koso TB
-Koso intake manifold
DCR Dual valve springs
still waiting on my DHM titanium retainers and a valve compressor to do the install
Stay tuned!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I got the head and piston installed along with the Dual Valve springs/Titanium retainers and Cam chain tensioner.
I was not able to slap on the Koso 34mm TB because It would not fit on the stock sized Chimera intake, so Im waiting on a reducer coupler hose to come in. The bike now has a lot of low and mid range power, throttle response is real snappy, but the power up top flattens out at around 7k ..which leads me to believe its the lack of air flow from the stock throttle body.. or just needs a proper tune?.I only have my ECU reflashed for an exhaust, cam and intake from CJR so it might even need another flash for the piston and head. I'll see if theres any difference once I get the KOSO TB installed, but If power continues to flatten out up top ill consider another reflash or an aracer for proper fuel adjustment.






Also got around to installing a crank case breather from Grom fatherz and some Sato Racing rear sets with a Goodridge rear brake light switch and woodcraft return spring. These rear sets are a game changer! shifting is so nice and precise with zero slop and the brake pedal feel is amazing! I went out yesterday through Angeles crest and the overall feel of the bike is spot on.


 

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That breather setup looks familiar lol. I would definitely say it's probably a mix of needing a retune and the throttle body possibly being a choke point for those large ports/valves. I would look into ditching that Chimera and getting an intake properly sized for the throttle body. Ideally you want the intake tract to go from large to small to keep intake air velocity up, when you step small to large you kill air velocity. A throttle body port would also help with intake air velocity since you're not running the matching Koso tube.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
That breather setup looks familiar lol
😁

I would definitely say it's probably a mix of needing a retune and the throttle body possibly being a choke point for those large ports/valves.
Yea I was thinking the same thing. So I put on the Koso throttle body on yesterday and took the bike for a spin, and when I get on the throttle it sputters around 3k-4k, then it will rev past that a little more happily, but still feels like theres something holding it back. After doing a couple more runs, the bike wasn't sputtering as much , it was revving smoother, the power is definitely there I could feel it..but power flattens out after 6k and up..
After riding, I pulled the spark plug and it was definitely on the whiter side. I tried getting a hold of CJR to see what the issue could be, and possibly get another flash for the ecu, but I ran out of patience and pulled the trigger on an aracer mini5 complete setup with a pcx 150 injector.
I would look into ditching that Chimera and getting an intake properly sized for the throttle body. Ideally you want the intake tract to go from large to small to keep intake air velocity up, when you step small to large you kill air velocity
Good to know! Definitely gonna switch out for an actual BBK intake.
A throttle body port would also help with intake air velocity since you're not running the matching Koso tube.
Im actually running the Koso intake manifold as well, just didnt post a pic of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
That breather setup looks familiar lol. I would definitely say it's probably a mix of needing a retune and the throttle body possibly being a choke point for those large ports/valves. I would look into ditching that Chimera and getting an intake properly sized for the throttle body. Ideally you want the intake tract to go from large to small to keep intake air velocity up, when you step small to large you kill air velocity. A throttle body port would also help with intake air velocity since you're not running the matching Koso tube.
LOL

Yea I was thinking the same thing. So I put on the Koso throttle body on yesterday and took the bike for a spin, and when I get on the throttle it sputters around 3k-4k, then it will rev past that a little more happily, but still feels like theres something holding it back. After doing a couple more runs, the bike wasn't sputtering as much , it was revving smoother, the power is definitely there I could feel it..but power flattens out after 6k and up..
After riding, I pulled the spark plug and it was definitely on the whiter side. I tried getting a hold of CJR to see what the issue could be, and possibly get another flash for the ecu, but I ran out of patience and pulled the trigger on an aracer mini5 complete setup with a pcx 150 injector.

Good to know! Definitely gonna switch out for an actual BBK intake.


Im actually running the Koso intake manifold as well, just didnt post a pic of it







 

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When I say port the throttle body, it's just taking that hard lip off of the inlet to smooth the airflow into the butterfly.



I'm not talking about the Koso manifold, I'm referring to the koso inlet tube from the stock airbox. The Koso, and OEM throttle bodies have a specific shape to them, that matches the stock and Koso inlet pipes respectively.





Those are stock parts, the Koso is the same pattern only larger. When you remove the airbox and go to an intake pipe that has a single diameter, porting keeps the flow of air smooth into the throttle body and as a result air velocity increases as it smoothly necks down in size.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
When I say port the throttle body, it's just taking that hard lip off of the inlet to smooth the airflow into the butterfly.



I'm not talking about the Koso manifold, I'm referring to the koso inlet tube from the stock airbox. The Koso, and OEM throttle bodies have a specific shape to them, that matches the stock and Koso inlet pipes respectively.





Those are stock parts, the Koso is the same pattern only larger. When you remove the airbox and go to an intake pipe that has a single diameter, porting keeps the flow of air smooth into the throttle body and as a result air velocity increases as it smoothly necks down in size.
ahhh ok. Thanks for the tips Ill have to do this
 
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