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Very nice work on the bike mate, keep on going.

Do you have to set the speedohealer or it just finds it's way by itself ?
 

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I'm impressed at both your clever outside the box ideas as well as your fabrication skills! :) Thanks for sharing your experience.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Do you have a link for the 1 finger clutch lever? Does it keep the clutch switch or delete it?
here is the link to the clutch lever.

it does not have a switch like the oem one does. I just made a small jumper wire between the 2 stock wires and zip tied it to the stop adjuster bolt on the new perch.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Very nice work on the bike mate, keep on going.

Do you have to set the speedohealer or it just finds it's way by itself ?
yes you have to program the percentage of error. on 12oclockindustries website there is all the instructions how to do so, as well as the printed instructions that come with the device. I simply clocked my bike at 60 using a gps ap, and saw my bikes speedo read 64, so you enter the two numbers on their website and it calculates the percentage of error for you, and gives you step by step directions on how many times to push the program button to achieve desired results. very easy.
 

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I have not validated this, but I remember reading about it and thought you may be interested in doing your own test to see if the clutch switch does indeed make a difference.

 

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Discussion Starter #30
I have not validated this, but I remember reading about it and thought you may be interested in doing your own test to see if the clutch switch does indeed make a difference.

just for shits and giggles I did try riding with the jumper wire both installed and not, and to my surprise, it did seem to pull a little harder with it removed. maybe a placebo affect? ill ride it some more tomorrow with it both installed and not, and see if I can notice a real difference then. maybe a back to back full throttle pull to see if there is much difference felt in acceleration? one odd thing I did notice tonight, is when the bike is in gear, say in first, with the clutch pulled in, not moving, and you rev it, the rpms hang up. they would hang around maybe 2800-3000 and not come back down even with your hand off the throttle... very weird. if you just blip the throttle they will still hang up, just closer to say 2500 or so. I did the same thing, clutch pulled in, bike in gear, (with the jumper wire connected) and the revs drop back to 1700-1800 or so like its supposed to. the idle only hangs up with the bypass wire removed. anyone else heard of this or experienced it? its not the end of the world as I just put it in neutral and the idle comes back down to normal, it only hangs up when in gear. besides that, bike functions as it should through each gear and all the way to red line... 🤷‍♂️
I took a picture of the revs hanging up around 3k with the clutch pulled in. obviously im not holding the throttle open as im using my right hand to hold the phone for the picture.
86094
 

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Discussion Starter #31
how much $$ do you want for a set of those sliders?
I can make another set, price would probably be around $80 + shipping. the materials are around 2/3 that cost, so I wouldn't make much on them. it takes me a while since im not a professional shop with lots of tools and processing abilities, im more of a diy hack haha. it may be more than you'd like to spend, or may not be competitively priced to a place or company that makes parts in a bulk assmembly line, as there is discount in bulk production. let me know either way, happy to help if I can. (y)
 

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Price is very fair.

I'm more concerned about them potentially hanging up prematurely? The footpeg wasn't touching the ground in your photo above? If anything, just a touch shorter on the sliders might be worth considering.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Price is very fair.

I'm more concerned about them potentially hanging up prematurely? The footpeg wasn't touching the ground in your photo above? If anything, just a touch shorter on the sliders might be worth considering.
good thing to be concerned about. I think its the angle of the photo, but iirc, the pegs do touch before the sliders do and actually move up a few degrees before the derlin touches the ground. so in theory, the foot pegs steel nubbins would hit first and let you know before the crash sliders would. but yes, I could make them shorter no problem. I just figured this length gives me about 1.5" of safe space before the muffler gets crunched. (more length than needed I know, just figured better safe than sorry) plus im not leaning over very far on the veerubbers. ill have to see how close I get to scraping the derlin sliders once I replace these tires.
 

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Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
thought the stock brake lever looked out of place with the black shorty clutch lever, so I grabbed a set of chinaman specials on amazon. the quality seems nice for the price, and the lever feels good with a 1 to 2 finger pull. nicely they are shorter than stock, so there is less of a chance of them bending/breaking if the bike falls over.
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Discussion Starter #35
I decided to try and retrofit the oem clutch switch into my 1 finger clutch perch. the switch is a press fit into the stock clutch perch, so I simply pressed it out. there are 4 raised "fingers" that aid in the switch fitting tightly into the oem clutch perch. I sanded those off with a corse sanding drum on my Dremel, as I wanted to leave a rough texture or "tooth" in the plastic so that the small amount of rtv used to secure the switch in place would have something to bite to. using glue or rtv isn't really necessary as the switch press fits in from the inside of the perch. I left the square locating tab intact so the switch could not be pushed through the hole in the new clutch perch, as it was on the oem. here's the switch rough sanded to the same od as the new hole in the clutch perch.
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I opened the original set screw hole in the 1 finger clutch perch to an appropriate size that the switch would be a slight press fit, as it is plastic, and I didn't want it to distort or crack.
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and the switch pressed into the clutch perch. you can see the little square tab that allows the switch to not be pushed all the way through the hole in the perch.
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once the switch was installed, I applied grease to the contact areas of the switch and installed the whole thing on the bike. I put marine grade (waterproof) heat shrink over the exposed switch housing in hopes to keep any dirt/water/moisture out of the inside of the switch.
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I did have to slightly bend the contact spades coming off the switch as the female connectors contacted the bars if left straight. it all works as it should, and I am happy I did this. it nice not to have the revs hang up when in gear (bike did this when the wires were left unplugged and un-jumpered) and to have the full power/rev potential of the bike since the wires aren't jumpered as they were before.:geek:
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Be careful, your creativity is showing! I love the way you addressed this issue. Looks very clean and functional.
haha thank you. and I suppose I should thank you again, as you're the one that brought this whole performance loss issue to light in the first place. without you I would've just kept the wires jumpered not knowing any better, and would not have been getting the full potential this engine has to offer. (it needs all the help it can get) so... THANKS again! you rule. 👍
 
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