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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I wouldn't say this is so much of a "build", but rather a series of small modifications/improvements and parts swapping. I recently bought a 2015 grom from a friend of mine. it had 850 miles on it when I got it, and was bone stock.
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first real part I installed was a zoom loop exhaust. sorry, only photo I had of the entire bike was taken a few days after I actually installed the exhaust, so there are other parts installed.
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I started buying parts here and there for it, and this is a series of those parts being installed and/or fabricated. I removed the big fender like most do, but couldn't believe the prices for these bolt on "fender eliminators", and none of them really suited my taste/needs, so I just made my own. the whole thing was made from 3/16" flat stock. completely over kill, but I didn't want it to vibrate and crack down the road so I just made it twice the thickness it needed to be right off the bat. I forgot to take photos of the process, but its pretty simple. here it is installed.

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and the underside. the flat piece is 1/8 abs sheet, primarily there to cover the holes left open when removing stock fender. this way less water/road grime gets up under my seat.
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the turn signals are amazon specials, and are intended to be bar end indicators.
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the front signals are protons. they are pretty ugly when they are off (and in running light mode), but I bought them because they are very bright when flashing, and that's the point right?
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next I installed a universal left handlebar switch because I hated how the stock switch had the horn button above the signal switch, and it was awkward to get my thumb up and over to the horn button in time to use it. I chose this switch because it had the horn and signal switch in the correct locations, but more so the fact that I can turn my headlight off during the day when its not needed. I'm running a retrofitted bi-xenon projector for a headlight, so being able to start the bike and run with the headlight off during the day will help take some strain off the stock battery.
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Discussion Starter #2
I completely forgot to take pictures of the headlight retrofit, but here it is installed. the projector is a Morimoto mini d2s, and im running a Morimoto 35w ballast w/ a 4500k bulb. im also using their h4 Moto control harness. I did however remember to take pictures of the ballast bracket I made to mount said ballast under the gas tank.
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and the headlight mounted.
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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I installed a chimera intake I got for xmas. I however wasn't thrilled with the fairing rod they provide with the intake. I didn't like how the plastics could still move side to side, so decided to make my own. Its completely overkill for what it needs to be, but I tend to make things that way by habit. the fairing stay rod I made is medium walled round tube with an m6 nut welded into each end, and a curved piece of solid stock welded perpendicular to the fairing rod. this fixed "finger" doesn't allow any lateral movement of the plastics. plus this also fills in the unused hole in the bottom Airbox mount. here some pictures of the mount from it being welded to test fitting, to painted and installed.
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mocking it up on the bike.
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and finally painted and installed. fits very well, is extremely solid, and very easy to mount the plastics as the mount stays in place even when the body panels are removed.
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Discussion Starter #4
I completely forgot to take pictures of the SF stator and regulator swap, but it isn't anything special anyways. I however did end up removing the rear brake reservoir and line because I didn't like how crowded everything was in that area now with the new bigger sf regulator mounted. I decided it would just be easier to remove it all together and replace it with a piece of tygon I had left over from another bike. I then made the plug out of a stainless bolt.
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its a bit longer than it needs to be, but this way I could use the stock lower exhaust mount to tie it to. I then did the heim joint shift linkage mod. this made a big difference, as the bike was extremely hard to find neutral in when I first got it. its now smooth as silk up from first, or down from second.
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Discussion Starter #5
decided yesterday to make some mini sliders in hopes to protect the muffler as well as shift lever. I don't want to run a stunt cage or 12 o'clock bar, so I just made some mini sliders that mount to the lower foot peg bracket hole. started out with some derlin bar end sliders and a piece of thick wall tubing.
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I removed some material on the derlin inserts and drilled and tapped them for an m5 screw. I step bored the inside ends of the pipe to leave a little more material on the derlin inserts, and to help with the press fit.
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the steel pipe is drilled and counter bored on the other end for the m5 screw to sit flush.
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in the photos, the derlin inserts are not fully pressed in, just in far enough to thread the screw into to check fitment and depth. I then drilled 2 large holes on either side to plug weld in the spacer lug that is sandwiched between the bolts head and the foot peg bracket, the tubing is then welded to that via a fillet weld and the 2 plug welds. this seemed to be the strongest, easiest way.
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and welded together. I turned my welder up and burned the welds in hot.
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once cool, I ground down the plug welds and the oversize fillet welds to where everything was flush and round. here they are ground and sanded.
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and the pieces together that make the sliders.
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Discussion Starter #6
testing to see if there was any flex, and if the lengths were alright. everything checks out and they seem very strong. (laying the bike over and jumping up and down on them)
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and how they look on the bike before being painted. they should work good for protecting the levers on both sides and the muffler.
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I think it is awesome you are fabbing so much up yourself. Looks great too! However I would recommend always using the headlight while riding for safety reasons/visibility.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I think it is awesome you are fabbing so much up yourself. Looks great too! However I would recommend always using the headlight while riding for safety reasons/visibility.
thanks for the kind words and the concern for headlight safety.(y)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
with the hid drawing a good amount of power, and the constant stop and go traffic around me, I figured it would be beneficial to install a volt meter on the bike. I started by making a relayed harness, so the volt meter is only on when the bike is on, and there is no parasitic drain on the battery. the relay is directly to the battery + and factory ground, and gets its turn on signal from the taillight + wire.
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and how it looks installed under the seat.
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Discussion Starter #11
the volt meter itself is very small, but it being round meant I had to make some sort of mount for it. I wanted to make a mini gauge "pod", so I grabbed a pvc cap from the hardware store and went from there. the volt meters threaded nut had a series of "fingers" that I had to sand off in order to make it a slight press fit into the pvc cap.
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and the nut pressed into the pvc cap.
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and the gauge screwed into the pvc pod.
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I then made a crude oblong slit in order to feed the 2 female spade connectors from the wiring harness through it. once I knew they fit, I sanded it to a smooth oval shape. (no pictures of finished sanding) I then put in an m5 rivet nut to attach the pvc pod to the flat stock aluminum arm that mounts under the upper triple tree. (uses the stud and nut from the right handlebar clamp)
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and here is how the pod attaches to the arm. I used a small aluminum spacer I had to lift the pod up some. the rivet nut is offset on purpose so the entire pod sits at an angle that was easiest to see when sitting on the bike. I don't have very big hands, so you can see how small all of these parts are.
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here is the voltmeters lock ring plastic epoxied into the pvc "pod"
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Discussion Starter #12
test fitting the whole thing on the bike. you can see where the arm attaches to the handlebar clamp bolt here.
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Discussion Starter #13
and here it is all painted and working as it should.
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sorry about the pictures, I didn't realize there was still a bunch of rubbing compound dust from when I buffed off the lettering on the gauge face. (the dust you see on the pod as well as the white areas around the gauge face)
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here is the gauge reading at idle with the headlight turned off.
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and with the headlight on, again, sitting at idle.
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Wow, very nice custom mods. Might get a little heavy, but very nice. I don't have your fab skills, but I appreciate the nice work.

I second the opinion of running the HIGH beam during the day. Bike headlights are just about the only thing car drivers see, even if your bike is neon yellow/green.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I purchased a cheap, but surprisingly nice 1 finger clutch lever on amazon and threw it on the bike. the lever actually has needle bearings in the pivot, and is very smooth with a nice light pull.
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Discussion Starter #17
also installed a speedo drd from 12oclocklabs. very easy install with easy programming as well. (I'm running a 14t front sprocket) it gets power/ground and signal from the taillight wiring, and plugs in-between the stock taillight connectors. the other connection is in line down at the speed sense wire.
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the relay/circuit board itself.
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it all tucks up nicely hidden under the taillights connectors on the right side of the bike.
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Do you have a link for the 1 finger clutch lever? Does it keep the clutch switch or delete it?
Almost all aftermarket perches delete the switch, I'm sure this one does as well.
 
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