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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I recently bought a welder and I'm getting comfortable enough to start making things with it. On the list of things is a 12 o'clock bar for the Grom because I'm cheap, I like building stuff like this, and can definitely make one with my amazing welding skills :wink:.


I'm looking to go with the Z&Z style more or less, but I need a few measurements. Mostly I just need the length of it from the tail of the bike to the end of the bar, and also the width from one slider (not including the slider pucks) to the other. Here's my very technical drawing of the measurements I need. I think any of the sub cages measurements would do even though mine will be a similar design as the Z&Z. Can anyone help me out? It'll save me some trial and error.

Sub Cage.jpg
 
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1923399_510293820126_51_n.jpg I used to stunt on a Suzuki RM250, and a Honda CRF450X. I had to make my own foot bar/12bar. They were UGLY as hell, but it let me do what I wanted to do. My one advice is to try to make your mount modular or easy to modify. I promise you will probably make a couple variations with different footpeg locations before you find something you like.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Interesting. I thought of it more as a one size fits all type of thing. Thanks for the advice.
 

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Interesting. I thought of it more as a one size fits all type of thing. Thanks for the advice.
I will have some measurements for you tomorrow, Mr. Squirrel. I'll do my best to take measurements of most everything. I feel like their subcage leaves a lot to be desired. Lots of room for improvement. Their 12 bar bolts onto the subcage. That's one part of it I would keep the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Phil you're the best! Just curious, what don't you like about the subcage? I'm going to try and make things as adjustable and as replaceable as possible. I do like the bolt on 12 bar so I'm going to keep that. I'm looking into the most easily available/cost efficient pucks, so tube diameter might change.
 

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Phil you're the best! Just curious, what don't you like about the subcage? I'm going to try and make things as adjustable and as replaceable as possible. I do like the bolt on 12 bar so I'm going to keep that. I'm looking into the most easily available/cost efficient pucks, so tube diameter might change.
If you can make your own pucks, I would go that route. If not, keeping it the same at least gives you the convenience of being able to buy them from Z&Z.

I'm an old fat tall guy, I like doing staggered wheelies. The subcage is kind of useless for that. The Zeus armor ones the pegs are dropped down a little lower, which I like, because it gives you the option to keep the OG style exhaust, along with being more comfortable to do staggered wheelies on. If you are running a 17+, or only use the handbrake, this shouldn't be an issue for you.

Their 12 bar and step plate I do like. It works nicely. Even at 6'1" I can knee knock it.

Overall I guess the part that kind of made me upset, was when I bought the cage and subcage, they didn't mention that I couldn't run a stock OG exhaust. I think there's others that would agree, it's nice when you find a low key stunt spot, and you keep it low key and quiet... cause as soon as you start making too much noise, bye bye new spot.
 

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From the back mounting bolt, to the end of the 12 bar is 11-1/4". The pegs are about 5-3/4" down from the mounting plate. And for the two rails that make up the 12 bar they are about 5-1/4" apart. Peg diameter is 1-1/4"

If my camera worked, I would have taken a picture and wrote in the measurements like that...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I didn't think about the exhaust. I don't have the original exhaust on right now, but the one I do have will get in the way still. So farther dropped down pegs for sure. I looked at Z&Z's sliders and they're 4 for $30 so that'll probably be the best option if I don't make my own. Although I do have two woodcrafts laying around from frame sliders I never installed on an old CBR F4. We'll see.

Thanks for the measurements! What is the measurement from the end of one peg to the other? Am I overlooking that in your post?
 

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I have a Zeuz subcage on my SF grom...the one with lower set pegs to clear the stock high mount OG muffler. I'll try remember to get some measurements for you. If you have an SF grom, you're gonna want wider subcage pegs because the rear fairing flares out more than on the OG. My calf digs into the rear fairing. I wish my subcage pegs were slightly higher up and more toward the rear.
 

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my buddy has a ND Customz setup that is really sick. It lets you play with peg position. Its made out of aluminum so it looks super chunky. A steel version would be pretty nice I think. But if you look and the way theirs is designed, its very modular.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yes send them measurements! I like the look of the Zues ones, but the Z&Z looks easier to build with the tools I have. IE not having to bend anything. I'll take a look at the ND Customz. Mine's going to be mostly if not all steel.

I was laying around last night and came up with an easy way to have adjustable pegs. At least in terms of how far back or forward you'd want them. Also I have an OG so the width that Phil gave should be good.
 
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Ever seen the OnPoint adjustable subcages? They have 4 little pegs, and 8 corresponding holes, so you can loosen the arm, swing it to where you'd like it, then tighten the bolt back up. If you could make something like this, would be super convenient...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Oh I like that! That wouldn't be too hard to do either. Just have to get my measurements right. I'm working on a CAD drawing now. There are definitely going to be changes once I start fabrication and figure out better ways to do some of it.
 

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I recently bought a welder and I'm getting comfortable enough to start making things with it. On the list of things is a 12 o'clock bar for the Grom because I'm cheap, I like building stuff like this, and can definitely make one with my amazing welding skills 😉.


I'm looking to go with the Z&Z style more or less, but I need a few measurements. Mostly I just need the length of it from the tail of the bike to the end of the bar, and also the width from one slider (not including the slider pucks) to the other. Here's my very technical drawing of the measurements I need. I think any of the sub cages measurements would do even though mine will be a similar design as the Z&Z. Can anyone help me out? It'll save me some trial and error.

View attachment 76886
Hey does anybody have the specs and how long and what size plate I need to get started on my own 12 bar??
 

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I recently bought a welder and I'm getting comfortable enough to start making things with it. On the list of things is a 12 o'clock bar for the Grom because I'm cheap, I like building stuff like this, and can definitely make one with my amazing welding skills 😉.


I'm looking to go with the Z&Z style more or less, but I need a few measurements. Mostly I just need the length of it from the tail of the bike to the end of the bar, and also the width from one slider (not including the slider pucks) to the other. Here's my very technical drawing of the measurements I need. I think any of the sub cages measurements would do even though mine will be a similar design as the Z&Z. Can anyone help me out? It'll save me some trial and error.

View attachment 76886
I’m not trying to hack on your welding skills at all brother, but, until you can pass an x-ray test, I would not recommend balancing your life on top of any weld! Especially @ high speed. porosity, slag imbedded within the weld, undercut-In adequate amount of welding rod deposited into the Weld, ColdFusion, etc... these are all real problems and when they fail they fail suddenly without any warning.
Would you like me to weld you one?
stainless Steel, TIG ?
My name is Keith Talton and I’m local 525 pipefitters and welders union Las Vegas Nevada.
 
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