Takegawa 143 BBK and roasted the piston
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Takegawa 143 BBK and roasted the piston

This is a discussion on Takegawa 143 BBK and roasted the piston within the Grom Talk forums, part of the Honda Grom Forums category; I have a 2019 Grom with a Takegawa 143 BBK and cam, SUP oil pump, Kitaco clutch cover, Yosh complete exhaust, Dingerbuilt short intake, and ...

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    Takegawa 143 BBK and roasted the piston

    I have a 2019 Grom with a Takegawa 143 BBK and cam, SUP oil pump, Kitaco clutch cover, Yosh complete exhaust, Dingerbuilt short intake, and a PCV with WBC2 installed. Whilst driving down the road at WFO throttle and redline, the motor start making a knocking noise then quit moments later. The piston is roasted and the cylinder walls are torched. I have installed a new 181BBK with oil cooler. While the engine was apart, I inspected all the accessible oil ports, oil pump, filter and found a bit of what appears to be grey gasket material in the filter and screen. I was wondering if there is a blocked oil line. Is there an oil jet that sprays the bottom of the piston or is the piston oiled solely by the splashing action of the rotating crank? Does anyone have any ideas? See attached pics.

    Thanks,

    UH60Hwkdrvr
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Takegawa 143 BBK and roasted the piston-img_4204.jpg   Takegawa 143 BBK and roasted the piston-img_2645.jpg   Takegawa 143 BBK and roasted the piston-img_0472.jpg   Takegawa 143 BBK and roasted the piston-img_5070.jpg  
    Last edited by UH60Hwkdrvr; 11-11-2019 at 04:38 PM.

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    Ninelives17's Avatar
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    I found what looked like a small piece of gray rtv on my oil strainer during my first oil change. Is this the first time you have pulled the strainer?
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    Looks like your problem might be not enough piston gap on the top ring and the second ring. I always error on the larger size for my piston ring gap.

    Your oil screen should be checked about 50-100 miles into the break in to remove any crap that clung on to your engine case such as dust in the shop, pet hairs from dogs or cats and such. I always drop my engine oil at 50 miles break in just to check my oil screen and since I have a Kitaco clutch side cover I don't worry about to much crap but it does happen if you are not careful about pet hairs or dusty shop.

    When I use any grey sealant on my crank case when putting my build back together I only put sealant on the outer liner of the case and near the oil screen.

    Take your engine a part and remove the crank/rod and also remove the transmission bearings to check from wear from any metal particles that might have gotten into the racers. Spin the bearings in your hand and feel if you have resistance due to bearings being contaminated with metal crap, the bearings should spin EZ with no resistance, also check the crank bearings and rod bearings for the same results.

    Look at the piston pin to rod connection to see if is not worn and if so replace them.

    You should have a A/F monitoring gauge on your exhaust pipe to check that your A/F ratio is correct for all RPM range and at the higher RPM range your A/F should be in the 12.6-12.9 to keep the engine cool .

    I monitor my groms by having a duel gauge setup to check my head temps and cylinder temps and just by looking at those readings plus my oil temp readings I can predict if the engine is running ok at various temps. My cylinder and head goes between 220F-260F depending if I'm moving or stopped at a stop light and my oil temps go between 169-229F depending on the riding condition or if it is summer time or winter time riding.

    on my yell/wht grom you can see a red unit on my left side handle bar which is a thermometer duel channel setup and the pick up wires are attached to my head and cylinder for monitoring the temps. It's a EZ cheap setup and I bought the unit from ebay around $20+ with free shipping, that way monitoring my temps is a breeze.
    Takegawa 143 BBK and roasted the piston-img_5353-copy.jpg
    Last edited by CiscoSanJose; 11-11-2019 at 02:54 PM.
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    Why is the piston gouged on the side?

    What was your temperature and air/fuel ratio when it popped?

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    Quote Originally Posted by 50-50 View Post
    Why is the piston gouged on the side?

    What was your temperature and air/fuel ratio when it popped?
    Somewhere between "core of the earth" and "surface of the sun" hot. I don't really know as I don't have a temp gauge installed.

    UH60Hwkdrvr

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    To me it looks like a temp problem... I've got an almost identical setup and even with a small oil cooler it still gets close to dangerous levels of heat.

    260F oil temp is not out of the ordinary but on the dangerous side and I see it regularly when going up a hill in hot weather.
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    Quote Originally Posted by UH60Hwkdrvr View Post
    Somewhere between "core of the earth" and "surface of the sun" hot. I don't really know as I don't have a temp gauge installed.

    UH60Hwkdrvr
    Time to get a temp gauge and an AFR meter IMO.

    The engine definitely got hot, but why? That's the question.

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    I am thinking a Lack-O-Oil to the piston may be the problem. I am installing new parts, properly gapped rings, and an oil cooler. We will see what happens.

    UH60Hwkdrdvr
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cheburashka View Post
    To me it looks like a temp problem... I've got an almost identical setup and even with a small oil cooler it still gets close to dangerous levels of heat.

    260F oil temp is not out of the ordinary but on the dangerous side and I see it regularly when going up a hill in hot weather.
    Fix your up heat problem by installing those modified oil pump with the extended copper tube, it works to help suck the oil when the grom is pointing up hill, since the oil goes towards the back side of the crank case.

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    Quote Originally Posted by CiscoSanJose View Post
    Fix your up heat problem by installing those modified oil pump with the extended copper tube, it works to help suck the oil when the grom is pointing up hill, since the oil goes towards the back side of the crank case.
    I have a high flow pump. I don't think the incline is that extreme that I need the copper tube pickup for better circulation. I think it has more to do with the load on the motor and pushing my fat ass up Hwy 17.
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