DYNO JET POWER VISION 3 (PV3) for the HONDA GROM FULL CONTROL REFLASH PV3-16-01 - Page 18
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DYNO JET POWER VISION 3 (PV3) for the HONDA GROM FULL CONTROL REFLASH PV3-16-01

This is a discussion on DYNO JET POWER VISION 3 (PV3) for the HONDA GROM FULL CONTROL REFLASH PV3-16-01 within the HardRacing Performance forums, part of the Vendors category; Originally Posted by dubSolo 1v = 14.7 afr 0.95v = 14.0 afr 0.92v = 13.5 afr 0.91v = 13.3 afr 0.90v = 13.2 afr 0.85v ...

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Thread: DYNO JET POWER VISION 3 (PV3) for the HONDA GROM FULL CONTROL REFLASH PV3-16-01

  1. #171
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    Quote Originally Posted by dubSolo View Post
    1v = 14.7 afr

    0.95v = 14.0 afr

    0.92v = 13.5 afr

    0.91v = 13.3 afr

    0.90v = 13.2 afr

    0.85v = 12.5 afr

    0.80v = 11.8 afr

    0.75v = 11.0 afr

    0.70v = 10.3 afr

    50-50 with your mods shoot for 13.5


    a narrowband o2 sensor voltage increases as mixture richens. so this post cannot be true.


    the voltage will be high when the mixture is richer than 14.7, and will be low when the mixture is leaner than 14.7
    50-50 likes this.

  2. #172
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    I have been following along on this thread intermittently.....and I freely confess that I do not have a much technical insight to offer (I wish that i did).....but i am intrigued by the PV3 product offering, and I hope to learn more. The one thing that seems to me to be lacking in these discussions, however, is does the PV3 result in any noticeable, verifiable performance improvement?

    There seems to be an oft-cited opinion that the stock Grom ECU has the motor running pretty lean -- especially at higher RPMs. More recent dyno data posted by DHM seems to indicate that correcting the lean condition improves torque at the higher RPMs. While I have not been able to observe that result myself (I had my ECU re-flashed), the reported result is still pretty impressive, and it could be that other mods are also required in order to perceive that significant performance bump. It becomes more complicated to evaluate any ONE mod when there are a number of mods in place simultaneously. I was really hoping that someone (Hard Racing, for example) would post results of before-and-after with a stock vs. PV3-equipped Grom.....or some other lightly-modded configuration sufficient to demonstrate the with/without performance advantage of the PV3.

    Is that an unrealistic data point to eventually hope to see?

  3. #173
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikochu View Post
    If you read Dyno(jet) Dan's posts, he states the PV3 EOT values mirror the factory scan tool from Honda.

    As for monitoring EOT on the PV3, my temps hovered around 230-240°F on my DHM 186 before switching to a CPR7EA-9 sparkplug. That's around 210-220°F on simpler gauges. I've also seen as high as 270°F before engine shut down on the stock jug/piston.
    My bike reached 260F and I got worried and shut it off. This was after climbing a long and fairly steep hill. Normally it runs around 225F, but it fluctuates from 205 to 255 F.

    I was using Dynojet's recommended 1601103 map with my Yoshimura RS-2. The only other thing I did was to remove the backfire screen on the stock filter. I did not mod the airbox in any way. After I saw 260F I pulled over, allowed the bike to cool to 200 and I flashed Yoshimura's map for the Yoshimura RS-2 and modified airbox (1601127) thinking it should be a richer map. The temps remain the same as before.

    The motor just seems to, at times, run too hot for the map to be good. Or maybe the PV3 EOT is more inaccurate than I realize.


    Quote Originally Posted by Paultergeist View Post
    I have been following along on this thread intermittently.....and I freely confess that I do not have a much technical insight to offer (I wish that i did).....but i am intrigued by the PV3 product offering, and I hope to learn more. The one thing that seems to me to be lacking in these discussions, however, is does the PV3 result in any noticeable, verifiable performance improvement?

    There seems to be an oft-cited opinion that the stock Grom ECU has the motor running pretty lean -- especially at higher RPMs. More recent dyno data posted by DHM seems to indicate that correcting the lean condition improves torque at the higher RPMs. While I have not been able to observe that result myself (I had my ECU re-flashed), the reported result is still pretty impressive, and it could be that other mods are also required in order to perceive that significant performance bump. It becomes more complicated to evaluate any ONE mod when there are a number of mods in place simultaneously. I was really hoping that someone (Hard Racing, for example) would post results of before-and-after with a stock vs. PV3-equipped Grom.....or some other lightly-modded configuration sufficient to demonstrate the with/without performance advantage of the PV3.

    Is that an unrealistic data point to eventually hope to see?
    The PV3 is just a dumb device that allows you to flash tunes. It is only as good as the tune you flash.

    If you're using a canned tune, like I am, then it'll probably never be as good on my bike as it was on Dynojet's test bike in the conditions in which they created the tune.

    The advantage of the PV3 over a DHM flash is that you paid for one flash and you're stuck with what you got. I can flash as many tunes as I'd like or I can take my bike and PV3 to a dyno and have a custom map made. You're using a tune that DHM found best for their bike in their conditions.

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  5. #174
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    While I don't think there is a stock temp sensor for the cylinder head, a combination of the sensor values probably triggered the emergency shutoff.

    In the manual, it recommends using the CPR7EA-9 spark plug if you're going to be running the bike at the higher speeds for long distances. I noticed cooler engine oil temps with that plug.

    Also, if you're interested, you may want to contact BillRamseyerJr for a custom tune. I've been testing a custom tune he made for my bike and I've been happy with it so far. I don't think I need any revisions until I get a new head.
    mikochu

    2018 Honda Grom (Matte Gray)
    Engine: DHM 186 | 2x ECU: DHM 186 & Stock+PV3 Dank Tuned | Koso DB-03R w/ RaceDash | UEGO | MTake | DHM Header+Cheap Slip-on | Kitaco 60% Springs+Stock Plate | Superlite 16/32
    Suspension:
    RacingBros Front (7.5N/mm) / Rear (100N/mm)
    Chassis: Chimera Race Bolt | Speed Spacers | Womet-Tech Sliders | NDC Adjusters | TST Fender Eliminator | ProTaper SE Honda Mini | Neverlandback Mirrors | Corbin Saddle | Driven TT Rearsets

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    Quote Originally Posted by mikochu View Post
    While I don't think there is a stock temp sensor for the cylinder head, a combination of the sensor values probably triggered the emergency shutoff.

    In the manual, it recommends using the CPR7EA-9 spark plug if you're going to be running the bike at the higher speeds for long distances. I noticed cooler engine oil temps with that plug.

    Also, if you're interested, you may want to contact BillRamseyerJr for a custom tune. I've been testing a custom tune he made for my bike and I've been happy with it so far. I don't think I need any revisions until I get a new head.
    I shut the bike off. There wasn't an emergency shut off. Did yours shut off automatically?

    Maybe I'll try a cooler plug. But I'm still not sure I even have a heat issue.

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    As long as you change your oil more often, you should be fine. 10w40 oil gets to it's target viscosity at around 212°F and will start to deteriorate as you go higher. I think most people will say 260°F is the max temp. You may want to invest in a cylinder head temp gauge...
    50-50 likes this.
    mikochu

    2018 Honda Grom (Matte Gray)
    Engine: DHM 186 | 2x ECU: DHM 186 & Stock+PV3 Dank Tuned | Koso DB-03R w/ RaceDash | UEGO | MTake | DHM Header+Cheap Slip-on | Kitaco 60% Springs+Stock Plate | Superlite 16/32
    Suspension:
    RacingBros Front (7.5N/mm) / Rear (100N/mm)
    Chassis: Chimera Race Bolt | Speed Spacers | Womet-Tech Sliders | NDC Adjusters | TST Fender Eliminator | ProTaper SE Honda Mini | Neverlandback Mirrors | Corbin Saddle | Driven TT Rearsets

  8. #177
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikochu View Post
    As long as you change your oil more often, you should be fine. 10w40 oil gets to it's target viscosity at around 212°F and will start to deteriorate as you go higher. I think most people will say 260°F is the max temp. You may want to invest in a cylinder head temp gauge...
    I'm currently using the 10W-30 that Honda recommends.

    So 260°F max is what I should see on the PV3?

    I just don't understand why exhaust, alone, would cause heat issues especially since Dynojet's map is, assumingly, richer than the stock map.

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