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Finbro cold starting fix!

This is a discussion on Finbro cold starting fix! within the Grom How-To's and Guides forums, part of the Honda Grom Forums category; Originally Posted by a_morti Madgrommer, I didn't like it so combined with the threat of the cops pursuing incorrect details on the registration docs and ...

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Thread: Finbro cold starting fix!

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    Quote Originally Posted by a_morti View Post
    Madgrommer, I didn't like it so combined with the threat of the cops pursuing incorrect details on the registration docs and therefore no insurance, I sold the 183 and fitted takegawa cam and Fi con. Starts like stock, idles smooth, but doesn't exactly power wheelie like the 183 did.

    Id grab a finbro flat top piston, and a finbro oversized valve head to keep stock cc's but gain some power.

    Really glad california doesnt do any inspections on motorcycles after their purchase.... which is weird considering our super stringent smog laws on cars etc.

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    Can anybody tell me why the w/bu wire also needs ground? I have a used finbro 235cc engine and it's a pain to start cold. With the wire harness that it came with there is no plug for the IACV. The bike is from Thailand so the stock harness also doesn't have a IACV plug. There is an IACV on the (finbro) TB but no plug to hook it up and it has four pins vs two that I see in the grom service manual. I am guessing that it has dual coils and I can wire them parallel but still need to take it out and figure out which pins are needed to energize the coil. More on that later. From what I see thanks to nd4spdbh (BTY, thanks for the fork mod you posted. Works great!!!), If I engage the IACV coil to increase air and tap into injector wire with specified cap, it should work. I just don't understand the w/bu wire also needing ground. I traced it in manual and it goes to pin 12 labeled FI in combination meter. Is that Fault Indicator? The check engine light? If so, is everyone disconnecting the ck engine light when just installing the finbro ecm? That just sounds like a bad idea. Anyway, if anybody can tell me what grounding the w/bu wire is for that would be great!!
    Last edited by Tailspin808; 10-11-2017 at 06:38 AM.

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    the w/bu wire is simply the check engine light indicator on the dash. Grounding it out turns it on and lets me know that the cold start is activated. Makes it easier to tell that its on when riding. There is no need to ground it out or use it for the mod to work.

    As far as your throttle body on the 235cc motor, i am fairly certain that you are using a forza 300 TB. it has an actual idle air control valve, and not just a cold start solenoid. the IACV is a stepper motor that the ecu controls (on the foza) to get the bike to idle at exactly the right rpms by finely adjusting the amount its open. Im not sure you could use a simple switch to open it easily.

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  5. #44
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    is smaller the cc, bigger the pp.
     
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    Quote Originally Posted by nd4spdbh View Post
    the w/bu wire is simply the check engine light indicator on the dash. Grounding it out turns it on and lets me know that the cold start is activated. Makes it easier to tell that its on when riding. There is no need to ground it out or use it for the mod to work.

    As far as your throttle body on the 235cc motor, i am fairly certain that you are using a forza 300 TB. it has an actual idle air control valve, and not just a cold start solenoid. the IACV is a stepper motor that the ecu controls (on the foza) to get the bike to idle at exactly the right rpms by finely adjusting the amount its open. Im not sure you could use a simple switch to open it easily.
    All this time I've been avoiding the cold start fix because a CEL when the cold start is activated is an unattractive trade off I rather not have. If what you're saying is that I don't *have* to have the CEL illuminated when the switch is flipped, then I think I'll give this a shot!

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    Quote Originally Posted by farkas View Post
    All this time I've been avoiding the cold start fix because a CEL when the cold start is activated is an unattractive trade off I rather not have. If what you're saying is that I don't *have* to have the CEL illuminated when the switch is flipped, then I think I'll give this a shot!

    correct. In my design the ONLY reason the CEL is turned on when the enrichment is activated is simply to let me know that its actually on. It serves no other purpose than that. so you can run without it without a single issue.

  7. #46
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    is smaller the cc, bigger the pp.
     
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    Quote Originally Posted by nd4spdbh View Post
    correct. In my design the ONLY reason the CEL is turned on when the enrichment is activated is simply to let me know that its actually on. It serves no other purpose than that. so you can run without it without a single issue.
    Thank you!

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    Quote Originally Posted by nd4spdbh View Post
    the w/bu wire is simply the check engine light indicator on the dash. Grounding it out turns it on and lets me know that the cold start is activated. Makes it easier to tell that its on when riding. There is no need to ground it out or use it for the mod to work.

    As far as your throttle body on the 235cc motor, i am fairly certain that you are using a forza 300 TB. it has an actual idle air control valve, and not just a cold start solenoid. the IACV is a stepper motor that the ecu controls (on the foza) to get the bike to idle at exactly the right rpms by finely adjusting the amount its open. Im not sure you could use a simple switch to open it easily.
    Thanks nd4spd!! Exactly what I needed to know. Will be making something to help with the cold start this week. As for the stepper motor, I'm sure I must be able to open it with voltage or maybe put a potentiometer in line. Wish I had access to a running forza so I could meter the wires going to the IACV.

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