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HR and the koso 170 kit

This is a discussion on HR and the koso 170 kit within the Vendor Reviews / Links forums, part of the Grom Classifieds category; The 26.26 peak HP is probably the exposed Tbody (maybe it means with their connecting tube elbow?). and probably a straight pipe for the exhaust. ...

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Thread: HR and the koso 170 kit

  1. #41
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    The 26.26 peak HP is probably the exposed Tbody (maybe it means with their connecting tube elbow?). and probably a straight pipe for the exhaust. This HP rating is like that on nearly any small engine, its gross, not net (having air cleaner and muffler).

    Pretty much any air cleaner (even the best), is going to make you lose some power, but in this case, it is fine. if you check the graphs out, you actually get more usable power, rather than a higher peak power.
    Quote Originally Posted by m in sc View Post
    top RH corner.


    Attachment 25986
    So viewing the curves, you see that #2 on the HP graph has higher power up until ~9k, which is near the stock rev limiter. Likewise, this is more prominent in the torque curves, when viewing 1 and 2 (except that the labels were reversed) (srs m in sc, examine them, i swear, theyre reversed). The 2 torque curves are actually very similar, and to be honest, i would say they are basically the same, except for the fact that the one with the muffler and air cleaner is shifted to the left/down in rpms.

    Filter is your choice, could go with their filter (i think the front cover of the air cleaner was removed too), or a BMC filter, or a DNA filter. Or, you could get a Chimera Intake, or an MTake. And finally, no filter! You could go with an exposed tbody, or even put a velocity stack on it. (would not recommend these last 2 for anything more than a short amount of time)

    One final note, these HP ratings are in PS (pferdestarke/metric HP), so you need to multiply them by 0.98632 to get your (B)HP. And finally, for torque, to convert from kg-m to ft-lb, you need to multiply by 7.233.

  2. #42
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    beats me. i pulled the chimera and stuck the k&n straight on the TB. doesn't seem to make a BIG difference as far as i can tell, well not MUCH and i KNOW it flows well enough. comparing tuning maps it added a BIT of fuel but thats it. I put the iat in the end of the filter, going to leave it like that as it keeps the filter further back, allows for abit more air flow in there around the motor, and frees up some room under the side panel.
    A bunch of old stuff that runs. 2stroke grom build...in process.. eventually...

  3. #43
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    There's a dyno comparison somewhere with the chimera vs. straight filter and without the curved intake tube you lose torque. Can find it by searching for comparisons with the flipped TB rotation I think. I would go with a Uni filter if I didn't have my chimera with K&N.

    There's also way too much irrelevant info in this vendor review thread, makes it really hard when searching for info on this kit.

    Should be here: https://www.hondagrom.net/forums/13-g...e-170-kit.html
    Or here: https://www.hondagrom.net/forums/7-gr...-head-kit.html

    This thread is only about Hard Racing.

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  5. #44
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    We've tested a ton. I can say for sure, the Chimura or Mtake built far better power off the bottom than a filter directly on the throttle body.
    Top Shelf parts & accessories WWW.MNNTHBX.COM

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    power was k, it didnt mod the map down low much, but added fuel uptop. however , breathing the engine through an open filterwas a mess, Had oil from he crankcase all over,so put the chimera back on. no gain, no notable loss, but the lack of a catch can was not fun.
    A bunch of old stuff that runs. 2stroke grom build...in process.. eventually...

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    Just wondering, is this kit safe to rev up to 12k to attain that 26hp out of the box? Or are there some other things that need to be done so your motor doesn't blow?

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    Quote Originally Posted by mambo-san View Post
    Just wondering, is this kit safe to rev up to 12k to attain that 26hp out of the box? Or are there some other things that need to be done so your motor doesn't blow?
    get Finbro connecting rod, stronger, mod your own bushing for better oil flow to the piston pin, get a good oil cooler.

    Heat is your enemy so that's it, control the heat and you control the blow up of your engine.

    OH a good monitoring gauge system for A/F, Temp is required so it will tell you how close you are to grenading your engine.

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