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the new 'yuminashi' ecu and PCV/WB install/ initial test

This is a discussion on the new 'yuminashi' ecu and PCV/WB install/ initial test within the Grom Performance forums, part of the Honda Grom Garage category; Originally Posted by David You can get a reflash for 20-25$ more, it retains the cold start function and all the other stock functions the ...

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Thread: the new 'yuminashi' ecu and PCV/WB install/ initial test

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    Quote Originally Posted by David View Post
    You can get a reflash for 20-25$ more, it retains the cold start function and all the other stock functions the Yuminashi ECU doesn't have.
    You can even reset it if you'd want, something else that's not possible with the Yumi ECU.
    That's fine. Everyone gets to choose.

    They will even reflash it for a small amount if you change hardware on your bike.
    That's exactly what I specifically wanted to avoid as I'm always changing stuff around.
    2018 GROM: Modified for reliability longevity gas mileage... and fun.

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    So, I've been researching... Comparing ECU flash to the Yuminashi.

    CJR is currently running a 10% off promo on flashed ECUs - hit them up on facebook for the promo code https://www.facebook.com/CameronJonesRacing11/. Purchasing ECU at $199 - 10% then returning your stock ECU for $95 core refund, is a pretty good deal, about $85 plus shipping two ECUs...

    I found their dyno comparison of Finbro ECU vs custom flashed ECU - was 13.04 with custom flash (dyno tune) vs Finbro at 12.61. I assume Yuminashi is close to Finbro... hopefully.

    I would not be able to get dyno tune by CJR, so would be a shelf map for my mods, stock engine, modded airbox and loop exhaust.

    I'm leaning towards Yuminashi as I end up with a second ECU that I own, which can be sold to recoup costs if I so choose. If they are close (Finbro/Yuminashi), I'm not leaving much HP on the table. My primary concern is lack of RPM limiter... I'd probably order Yuminashi double valve springs, which is +$40 or so. I need to check valve clearances anyhow as I don't know the history on this used bike...

    the new 'yuminashi' ecu and PCV/WB install/ initial test-66352234_622745898203960_8210369193678209024_n.jpg

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    I'll say this, looking through all the CJR ECU flashed dyno graphs, the AFR is very even/level vs stock or as seen above...

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    Quote Originally Posted by CDN Grom View Post
    So, I've been researching... Comparing ECU flash to the Yuminashi.

    CJR is currently running a 10% off promo on flashed ECUs - hit them up on facebook for the promo code https://www.facebook.com/CameronJonesRacing11/. Purchasing ECU at $199 - 10% then returning your stock ECU for $95 core refund, is a pretty good deal, about $85 plus shipping two ECUs...

    I found their dyno comparison of Finbro ECU vs custom flashed ECU - was 13.04 with custom flash (dyno tune) vs Finbro at 12.61. I assume Yuminashi is close to Finbro... hopefully.

    I would not be able to get dyno tune by CJR, so would be a shelf map for my mods, stock engine, modded airbox and loop exhaust.

    I'm leaning towards Yuminashi as I end up with a second ECU that I own, which can be sold to recoup costs if I so choose. If they are close (Finbro/Yuminashi), I'm not leaving much HP on the table. My primary concern is lack of RPM limiter... I'd probably order Yuminashi double valve springs, which is +$40 or so. I need to check valve clearances anyhow as I don't know the history on this used bike...

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Don't waste your time and money on the Yuminashi / Finbro ecu, there isn't a single thing it does better than a reflash, only downsides. And if it can make 0,4hp extra spend the little extra money, that would be the cheapest power gain possible on a Grom lol
    Tooter will say it works. I'll say do you want something that just works and save 20$ or something that's just better in every possible way for 20$ more?
    50-50 likes this.

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    Quote Originally Posted by David View Post
    Don't waste your time and money on the Yuminashi / Finbro ecu, there isn't a single thing it does better than a reflash, only downsides. And if it can make 0,4hp extra spend the little extra money, that would be the cheapest power gain possible on a Grom lol
    Tooter will say it works. I'll say do you want something that just works and save 20$ or something that's just better in every possible way for 20$ more?
    I only say it works because it does work.

    I think reflashed ECU's are a good deal for the money for riders who don't do any more engine mods and don't need to have them reflashed again.
    2018 GROM: Modified for reliability longevity gas mileage... and fun.

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    So, I've decided to go with ECU reflash from CJR. I decided to do so for a couple reasons, primarily rpm limiter and cold start. It's my wife's bike and I don't want her to have any sort of finickiness with starting in colder weather. I can manage that but I don't want to set her up with anything that could lead to frustration. The RPM limiter - my Duke 390 is setup GP shift and I want the protection for possible mis-shifts.

    I've also decided to do aftermarket intake (MNNTHBX Mtake) and TB cam, so will get a flash setup for those specifically as well.
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    Quote Originally Posted by CDN Grom View Post
    So, I've decided to go with ECU reflash from CJR. I decided to do so for a couple reasons, primarily rpm limiter and cold start. It's my wife's bike and I don't want her to have any sort of finickiness with starting in colder weather. I can manage that but I don't want to set her up with anything that could lead to frustration. The RPM limiter - my Duke 390 is setup GP shift and I want the protection for possible mis-shifts.

    I've also decided to do aftermarket intake (MNNTHBX Mtake) and TB cam, so will get a flash setup for those specifically as well.
    I'm sure you'll be happy with your choice.
    2018 GROM: Modified for reliability longevity gas mileage... and fun.

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    Quote Originally Posted by CDN Grom View Post
    So, I've decided to go with ECU reflash from CJR. I decided to do so for a couple reasons, primarily rpm limiter and cold start. It's my wife's bike and I don't want her to have any sort of finickiness with starting in colder weather. I can manage that but I don't want to set her up with anything that could lead to frustration. The RPM limiter - my Duke 390 is setup GP shift and I want the protection for possible mis-shifts.

    I've also decided to do aftermarket intake (MNNTHBX Mtake) and TB cam, so will get a flash setup for those specifically as well.
    I think the CJR/DHM reflash is a good choice.

    Why are you going with the MNNTHBX intake? I think there are better options for similar prices. The Mtake has a cheap, sheet metal bracket that dangles the IAT sensor above the intake. Other brands (Chimera and Dinger) put the IAT sensor into the intake track where it belongs. Plus, this protects the sensor from road debris. I just can't see paying $100 for a red radiator hose.
    Last edited by 50-50; Yesterday at 06:32 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 50-50 View Post
    I think the CJR/DHM reflash is a good choice.

    Why are you going with the MNNTHBX intake? I think there are better options for similar prices. The Mtake has a cheap, sheet metal bracket that dangles the IAT sensor above the intake. Other brands (Chimera and Dinger) put the IAT sensor into the intake track where it belongs. Plus, this protects the sensor from road debris. I just can't see paying $100 for a red radiator hose.
    It was cost... I purchased a lightly used one from the FB classifieds for $80 shipped with brace. I think the Dinger Built mid or long would be ideal but too much $ for me right now. I also want wet weather capabilities and the way the Mtake filter is oriented with closed end forward seemed important to me. I'm trying to get the Outerwears part number for the water repellent cover, only missing that currently.

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    Quote Originally Posted by CDN Grom View Post
    It was cost... I purchased a lightly used one from the FB classifieds for $80 shipped with brace. I think the Dinger Built mid or long would be ideal but too much $ for me right now. I also want wet weather capabilities and the way the Mtake filter is oriented with closed end forward seemed important to me. I'm trying to get the Outerwears part number for the water repellent cover, only missing that currently.
    I see.

    I ordered an Outerwears pre-filter for the K&N filter on my Dinger Built intake. That should prevent any water from being ingested by the engine. If that isn't enough for you there's a company called Sprint that offers waterproof filters, but they are expensive.

    MNNTHBX should be able to give you a part number for the Outerwears cover if they don't already offer it.

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