Well this is my phase 6 or 7 design of reducing oil mist, reducing oil puking out my DIY airbox, reducing condensation of water, reduce hot air and gases, reduce temp internal to the grom engine case.
Talking to my friend Sol who is running a Finbro 204-4v engine with the Takegawa oil catch can setup his one complain about the Takegawa unit is that he is getting a lot of condensation on all four lines that he has connected, this condensation is a white/grey/milky looking slug that is in his lines/hose that is connected to the can. Since this is a closed system there is no where for the condensation to escape so it just clings onto the walls of the can or hose. Since one of his 5 lines is plugged I told him to install a nipple with attached hose and small filter to that line so as to let the hot air escape to reduce condensation to accumulate inside the can or hose.
This is that the latest can looks like compared to my first DIY GY6 scooter can mod and the Takegawa can. My DIY can has 4 connection points, 3 on one end and one on the other end. Thanks to M_in_SC for showing a link of KART oil catch cans so I decided to buy one just to see if I can try to use it. The can was smaller than what I wanted but it had a thicker walls where I can tap threads into it for adding new nipples or hardware. Hardware I used was stuff that came with the KART can or stuff laying around my tool box or storage shed.
The nipple on one end will be used as the return line to my DIY air box.
The side with the three hardware attached, the top hardware with the threaded elbow will go to the valve cover, the bottom silver nipple will go to the oil spout hole.
The nipple on the end will go to the original Crank Case vent hole and the hose that will be attached to this connection will also have a Danger Dave oil catch can and the reason for that is to capture the condensation "water/muck". From all my testing I found that most of the moisture comes from the Crank case vent hole. I did notice that most of the oil mist comes from the oil spout hole.
The can is also packed with steel wool to reduce the oil mist into a oil puddle that will go back down into the oil spout hole or out the top hole to the valve cover to be returned back to the case. The threads are wrapped with white plumbers tape.
The new DIY can will also be mounted at a angle where the side that has the 3 output line will be tilted down/slight angle 20-30 degree as to gather the oil so it will flow out the hole that goes to the oil spout.
I did a vibration and strength test of the middle can "GY6 can" nipples and the unit came a part and the DIY JB weld did not hold. So the trick for that can is to have some one who is good at welding .
Another view of all three cans, my latest DIY on the left, Takegawa in the middle, DIY "GY6 can on the right"
Talking to my friend Sol who is running a Finbro 204-4v engine with the Takegawa oil catch can setup his one complain about the Takegawa unit is that he is getting a lot of condensation on all four lines that he has connected, this condensation is a white/grey/milky looking slug that is in his lines/hose that is connected to the can. Since this is a closed system there is no where for the condensation to escape so it just clings onto the walls of the can or hose. Since one of his 5 lines is plugged I told him to install a nipple with attached hose and small filter to that line so as to let the hot air escape to reduce condensation to accumulate inside the can or hose.
This is that the latest can looks like compared to my first DIY GY6 scooter can mod and the Takegawa can. My DIY can has 4 connection points, 3 on one end and one on the other end. Thanks to M_in_SC for showing a link of KART oil catch cans so I decided to buy one just to see if I can try to use it. The can was smaller than what I wanted but it had a thicker walls where I can tap threads into it for adding new nipples or hardware. Hardware I used was stuff that came with the KART can or stuff laying around my tool box or storage shed.
The nipple on one end will be used as the return line to my DIY air box.
The side with the three hardware attached, the top hardware with the threaded elbow will go to the valve cover, the bottom silver nipple will go to the oil spout hole.
The nipple on the end will go to the original Crank Case vent hole and the hose that will be attached to this connection will also have a Danger Dave oil catch can and the reason for that is to capture the condensation "water/muck". From all my testing I found that most of the moisture comes from the Crank case vent hole. I did notice that most of the oil mist comes from the oil spout hole.
The can is also packed with steel wool to reduce the oil mist into a oil puddle that will go back down into the oil spout hole or out the top hole to the valve cover to be returned back to the case. The threads are wrapped with white plumbers tape.
The new DIY can will also be mounted at a angle where the side that has the 3 output line will be tilted down/slight angle 20-30 degree as to gather the oil so it will flow out the hole that goes to the oil spout.
I did a vibration and strength test of the middle can "GY6 can" nipples and the unit came a part and the DIY JB weld did not hold. So the trick for that can is to have some one who is good at welding .
Another view of all three cans, my latest DIY on the left, Takegawa in the middle, DIY "GY6 can on the right"