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Update DIY oil catch can, better solution, compare to DIY 1, Takegawa, New DIY pic

13K views 32 replies 13 participants last post by  Pard 
#1 · (Edited)
Well this is my phase 6 or 7 design of reducing oil mist, reducing oil puking out my DIY airbox, reducing condensation of water, reduce hot air and gases, reduce temp internal to the grom engine case.

Talking to my friend Sol who is running a Finbro 204-4v engine with the Takegawa oil catch can setup his one complain about the Takegawa unit is that he is getting a lot of condensation on all four lines that he has connected, this condensation is a white/grey/milky looking slug that is in his lines/hose that is connected to the can. Since this is a closed system there is no where for the condensation to escape so it just clings onto the walls of the can or hose. Since one of his 5 lines is plugged I told him to install a nipple with attached hose and small filter to that line so as to let the hot air escape to reduce condensation to accumulate inside the can or hose.

This is that the latest can looks like compared to my first DIY GY6 scooter can mod and the Takegawa can. My DIY can has 4 connection points, 3 on one end and one on the other end. Thanks to M_in_SC for showing a link of KART oil catch cans so I decided to buy one just to see if I can try to use it. The can was smaller than what I wanted but it had a thicker walls where I can tap threads into it for adding new nipples or hardware. Hardware I used was stuff that came with the KART can or stuff laying around my tool box or storage shed.

The nipple on one end will be used as the return line to my DIY air box.

The side with the three hardware attached, the top hardware with the threaded elbow will go to the valve cover, the bottom silver nipple will go to the oil spout hole.
The nipple on the end will go to the original Crank Case vent hole and the hose that will be attached to this connection will also have a Danger Dave oil catch can and the reason for that is to capture the condensation "water/muck". From all my testing I found that most of the moisture comes from the Crank case vent hole. I did notice that most of the oil mist comes from the oil spout hole.

The can is also packed with steel wool to reduce the oil mist into a oil puddle that will go back down into the oil spout hole or out the top hole to the valve cover to be returned back to the case. The threads are wrapped with white plumbers tape.

The new DIY can will also be mounted at a angle where the side that has the 3 output line will be tilted down/slight angle 20-30 degree as to gather the oil so it will flow out the hole that goes to the oil spout.



I did a vibration and strength test of the middle can "GY6 can" nipples and the unit came a part and the DIY JB weld did not hold. So the trick for that can is to have some one who is good at welding .


Another view of all three cans, my latest DIY on the left, Takegawa in the middle, DIY "GY6 can on the right"
 
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#2 · (Edited)
Unit is installed did a idle test run, no oil leaks, only concern is the nipple that I JB weld on the intake valve cover that will be my weak point.

If everything works as I designed, my next can will have smaller hose maybe braided wire type hose and the nipples might be replaced with better type connectors.

this is the fly wheel side of the grom


this is the clutch side of the grom, I installed the danger dave oil catch can to the crank case hole to mainly collect the condensation and it is a EZ location to remove the catch can to clean it out.


this is the weak point of the build, the connector on the intake valve cover
 
#3 ·
Did a WOT ride to the gym and back. Failure

DIY catch can #6-7 is a failure, oil puking out big time from the air box. Most of the oil is coming up from the oil spout hole and from the front intake valve cover and going into the can and puking out the DIY open mouth air box.

I took everything apart and ended up doing a duel danger dave catch can setup. Will take pictures tomorrow and do a WOT test.
 
#6 · (Edited)
lol i was going to say the same thing.

Jesuz... 5 lines in and out!


Stop using those horrible danger dave oil catch things.... they are stupid restrictive.

Also for the tappet cover port have a look at how i did mine. None of this JB weld bull shit, its actually held in by clamping forced and sealed properly with some RTV silicone.

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http://www.hondagrom.net/forums/7-g...pout-hole-phase-one-testing-9.html#post209185



That stated, even after doing a coiled line setup oil would still leak out the filter. Plain n simple the tappet cover has too much oil mist caused by the whole valve train so its been capped off for quite some time and i went back to a stock setup.

http://www.hondagrom.net/forums/7-g...out-hole-phase-one-testing-14.html#post256017
 
#9 · (Edited)
Decided to do a two inline Danger Dave oil and sludge catch can system. This system works compared to all my other system I tried.

The first unit will capture the oil mist


The second unit will capture the sludge and any other oil mist and the line goes to the DIY airbox


I need to continue my takegawa 181-4v build so this catch can system will do for now. The unit I was testing, DIY, building was for my Finbro 183 BBK setup.
 
#18 ·
Decided to do a two inline Danger Dave oil and sludge catch can system. This system works compared to all my other system I tried.

The first unit will capture the oil mist

LOL cisco.... i love you man, but you gotta get away from those horrible "danger dave" oil separators..... they are just as 100% useless for what you are trying to do (relieve crank case pressure) as that ground strap that goes from the base of your spark plug to the same head its threaded in.....

Also get rid of that damn charcoal canister.... you already have it unplugged from the intake tube..... may as well just remove the whole thing.
 
#15 ·
in my experiences with these little bikes if you stay under 10k the bike wont blow oil. unless the oil level is to high or theres a problem with your piston/rings/cylinder

my bike could only make 1, 20-30 second blast up top with the danger dave oil separator before filling it then blowing it everywhere. I'm able to turn 12.8 though in 4th hell ive seen trims at 13k lol. Ive oiled my bike down atleast 6-7 times trying different crap waiting on the takagawa can to get here. it has fixed the issue.

may question to you would be have you ever blown oil? before putting the oil separator on? did you put it on thinking youd need it? id run a copper barbed fitting as low as possible on the stock oil line that steps up the vent line to say 1/2" or 9 1/16'' and run that up under the tank. that will reduce the oils velocity not spray and then go back into the motor. this should work for people turning under 10k.
 
#16 ·
hes right. i didn't see any problems until the revs went up, and even then it wasn't that bad. you are just trying to relieve crank case pressure, so 1 negative pressure line to the intake (one from the motor to intake runner) and an open breather can or line that vents to atmosphere with a return of condensed oil spray to the motor is really all that is needed. condensation occurs mostly from keeping vehicles out of a temp and humidity controlled environment. its normal. and it burns off quickly.

this is a long but decent install vid of a catch can on a turbo drift car, but he hits some key elements.
 
#19 ·
actually that ground strap is for the capacitor , supposedly, or as an rf drain. i have one of those as well and still think its snake oil but whatever, it certainly looks dramatic #becausegroundstrapbling
 
#21 · (Edited)
I did a one last try this morning before working on building my takegawa 181-4v engine, the final design that works for my Finbro 183 oil catch can. After the re-design I rode to the gym and back which is the same distance as my last test/design/DIY and I nailed it this time, no oil puking out, no oil in either catch can and only mist of sludge in the second can. Thank God.

So here are the pictures and the way to build it and it works, I went WOT at 9500-10000 rpm with zero issues.

I used the original black rubber hose that leaves the crank case vent and cut is about 3" from the hole where it starts bending up and on the bent section I installed a brass hardware from HFT 3/8" hose barb to 1/4".
To the section that has the threads I installed about a 2' of clear 5/8 dia hose. The other end of the 2' hose was packed with plastic type material that is used to pack oranges or other fruit products that are sold at Costco or your local store. If you look at the pic you can see the orange material inside the hose. the hose is routed up and under the gas tank front section and looped around the gas tank front mounting tab. The end with the packing material is mounted to a danger dave catch can and the out put from the catch can I installed about a 1' long 3/8" dia clear hose. This 3/8" hose was routed under the back side of the gas tank and on the other side I installed a second danger dave catch can and the out put from this can went to the DIY airbox.




You can see the orange material inside the clear hose.


You can see the 2' hose being routed under the front of the gas tank


second catch can to the airbox, inside the airbox where the hose comes in the little pocket area/channel I packed it with filter type material. That black wire on top of the Danger Dave catch can is my connection cable for my Dynojet POD 300. AFT



 
#22 · (Edited)
My next DIY project is my external oil cooler mounting bracket which is half done. I first need to finish my Takegawa 181 build

Oh forgot to mention places to buy the materials for the BBK oil catch unit.

The clear hose came from Orchid Supply, FDA type Taiwan clear hose, rated for higher temp and pressure.

The brass hardware/filter came from the compressor section of HFT "Harbor Freight Tools".

The orange material that I used to pack inside the clear hose is used by Costco vendors that hold their fruits, it is like a plastic net material that is used to pack avocados but those nets are green. The reason for the material is to act as a buffer for the oil mist and to slow done the hot air coming from the Crank Case vent and the material will also capture sludge and crap.

Ride safe all
 
#25 ·
I am not trying to be critical here at all, and I am sure there is valid rationale behind these designs, but......

It sure looks to me like an awful lot of *stuff* (read: "complexity") is being added to the bike. Is the payoff for all this effort worth it? How much of a problem is the stock crankcase breather if the bore is increased -- is all this really required?

I m just asking.....not criticizing.
 
#28 ·
I look at it as one person's journey to solve their particular problem. He's seems to be happy with it, but not to the point of using it on future builds.

It is certainly not documented well enough, and verified as repeatable, that anyone would foolishly try to recreate it as a DIY solution.
 
#29 · (Edited)
Old thread, same problem.

What am I doing wrong?

My NEO vents fine, no catch can, just cam cover vented to unifilter and standard case vent.

The below is a Tekegawa 4v with a Takegawa can hooked up. Video link below.

Confusing to look at but there are 5 lines numbered in the picture:

1 (red). out: vent to atmosphere
2. (red) out: vent to atmosphere
3. (blue) in: stock crankcase vent line
4. (blue) In: intake tappet cover line
5. (blue)In: Drain: to oil fill port on clutch side of case.

The two hoses not connected and hanging down are fuel tank vent and overflow lines. Not factors but confuse the picture. Sorry.

Still getting oil coming out of the #1 and #2 vents to atmosphere. Lots of oil.

Should I have the vents to atmosphere at the back of the can?
Reverse the hookup?
Why do some folks only run one outlet to the atmosphere, plug the other, when there are two ports per side of the can?


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