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Upgraded Timing Chain Tensioner

This is a discussion on Upgraded Timing Chain Tensioner within the Parts for Sale / Wanted forums, part of the Grom Classifieds category; Just making this post for people who may not follow the other thread on this topic, http://www.hondagrom.net/forums/13-g...r-options.html . Heres what it will look like, its ...

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Thread: Upgraded Timing Chain Tensioner

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    Upgraded Timing Chain Tensioner

    Just making this post for people who may not follow the other thread on this topic, cam chain idler gear options.

    Heres what it will look like, its fairly simple. The only difference is that the part that contacts the tensioner (opposite the wheel) will be ground/machined down so the arm applies a similar amount of pressure on the chain from stock.
    Quote Originally Posted by chaddington View Post
    Installed the one Turpinator made for me today. I welded a foot on like M_in_SC did on his design. All back together and running smoothly. Now I can ride worry free. Thanks dicks for the help!


    Turp's design:


    Turp's fitted up:
    Cost is 85$ shipped in the US.
    If you send me your tensioner arm (idc how destroyed the wheel is), 60$.




    Last edited by turpinator; 03-05-2017 at 12:47 PM.

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    chaddington's Avatar
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    Chris (Turpinator) makes good stuff. I highly recommend this piece and can vouch for him - you'll receive the tensioner promptly.

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    Hell yeah I'll definitely support. I'm gonna try and get my arm out soon.

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    very nice and interested to get one! haven't followed the threads much about mod arms, but i remember seeing a version that had a metal piece welded to increase the surface area that contacted the tab. did you consider that or did you determine that wouldn't make a difference? seems like more surface area will reduce the wear on the tab.

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    And heres what we will be removing. While its not really possible to make it /exactly/ the same without making the arm a bit thin, id say its pretty close. Theres a little extra material on it, so it will apply a bit more pressure, but its really to account for people's grinding ability, as most tend to overgrind.


    https://www.dropbox.com/s/xzmd7wf3ac...20Arm.PDF?dl=0
    Print it out actual size and get your scissors out. Its pretty close, but my tracing skills arent perfect. Just center it as best you can and give it a whirl.


    As for the foot, like some people have added, is because the arm got beat up from the plunger after the wheel and rubber button went out. To prevent it from happening, they went to the extremes. As long as you replace the rubber button with a rounded off bolt (maybe a finbro button too?), its a flat contact surface all the time, not 1 (or 2) like the plunger with no button. So it should be fine. Even after running for a few months with basically no idler wheel, the two showed basically no signs of wear.

    Sure, the Kitaco one has a larger foot, but the Kitaco one is also duraluminum ?some sort of 2000 series sintered aluminum?, which is substantially weaker. While the low end stats for duraluminum are higher than that of even a low carbon steel, the steel's stats ramp up substantially quicker. And average values for the low carbon steel are ~2x that of the duraluminum stuff. So to make up for this, they made it bigger, albeit lighter.
    Last edited by turpinator; 01-03-2017 at 09:54 PM.

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    keit29's Avatar
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    Ill let you know. Kinda thinking of trying to make my own, so basically I'll be in touch after I mess mine up.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pwr2wh8 View Post
    very nice and interested to get one! haven't followed the threads much about mod arms, but i remember seeing a version that had a metal piece welded to increase the surface area that contacted the tab. did you consider that or did you determine that wouldn't make a difference? seems like more surface area will reduce the wear on the tab.
    the original designer of the metal gear wheel was M in SC he also provided the gear wheel p/n to get and designed the foot part that rested on the plunger. He also recommended that when you get the metal sprocket wheel that you remove the plastic sides that protect the bearings so that the engine oil when being splashed around can lube these bearings.

    Do a search on this topic and you will find the original posting by M in SC


    Like I tell members there is a lot of old posting about hopping up your grom in here, just have to do your search.

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    m in sc's Avatar
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    thanks Cisco, yeah, my rubber foot on the pusher failed and gouged the original arm. I did make a foot, I personally think its a good way to go, but was nec on mine as my arm was compromised. I also made a brass button on the end of the pusher.
    I'm glad these are being offered. Too bad the vendors that make parts didnt step up Good luck with the sales Turp.
    Too many toys? nah. 09 Ducati sport classic, 74 rd350 LC hybrid, 73 RD350, 73 Kawasaki S2a, 67 Kawasaki C2TR 120 Roadrunner, 71 Kawasaki G3SS powered by a CR85 liquid cooled lump, 74 Moto-Morini 3 1/2 strada, 84 Yamaha RZ350, 1962 Ford falcon, 76 Ford maverick, very early 1970 non-us Spec Yamaha R5, 89 Yamaha DT50 bought NEW in 2015, 2015 KTM 390 Duke, 72 yamaha CS5.. . oh.. and 2014 Honda Grom with lots of mods.. (some useful, most not)

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    Just a note on this, you will need the flywheel puller (m30x1.5 internal threads), but id be willing to ship mine out with the arm if anyone wants, as long as I get it back in a timely manner.

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    chaddington's Avatar
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    Best deal I found on the flywheel puller: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GZL2HE/

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