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Sprockets: What you need to know

This is a discussion on Sprockets: What you need to know within the Grom Performance forums, part of the Honda Grom Garage category; the options all say- slight speed loss, no speed loss, or speed loss. i'm looking for top speed gain. but I will take a fork ...

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Thread: Sprockets: What you need to know

  1. #11
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    the options all say- slight speed loss, no speed loss, or speed loss. i'm looking for top speed gain. but I will take a fork and bib if anyone's offering. again, i'm new here - I expect some lashings.
    ***Adopt Don't Shop / END BSL***

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    I can vouch for the grom performing somewhat better once it passes the break in period. I wanted a little more top end power and a higher top speed so that i could ride on 55mph back roads and not get run off the road. I did the Brock's exhaust and the sprint filter chimera intake along with a power commander. I have the luxury of having a nearby friend with a totally stock grom to compare. The benefit of these modifications is mostly in power up to top speed...so acceleration gains for sure. My top speed increased, but also can be cut back to the original stock top speed by a strong head wind. An unexpected or unintended byproduct of the exhaust is the grom also sounds badass. Hope that helps...even if it isn't directly related to sprockets, I thought it might address what you are talking about.
    Successfully ridden the Grom in NY, NJ, CT, MA, NH, VM, ME, ON CA, PA, WV, VA, MD, DC, NC, GA, AL, TN

    Best way to reach me these days is by PM

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeremy1570 View Post
    the options all say- slight speed loss, no speed loss, or speed loss. i'm looking for top speed gain.
    Hi Jeremy and welcome to the boards.

    You can get some increased top speed but it will come at the expense of worse acceleration so few people go that direction unless they've made major engine modifications first. Think about it in terms of riding a bicycle in the hardest gear: it's awful to get moving once you've stopped but if you do somehow keep pedaling hard enough, you might actually pick up enough speed to where that gear is finally useful and you can keep up with traffic. When applied to the Grom, this means every time you stop at an intersection, you're going be slower getting back up to cruising speed. If you live way out in the country and never have to stop it might be worth it to go a bit faster but most owners aren't willing to put up with slower acceleration because they'll get run over by a minivan before they ever get a chance to see those extra few mph on the very top end.
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  5. #14
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    awesome. thanks Vinnie and kzam - both of your posts helped tremendously and that combined with doing some more learning and research- it's all making sense. Really appreciate it!
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    This link was shared with me and found it very helpful

    Gearing Commander: Motorcycle Speed, RPM, Chain & Sprockets Calculator

    Someone had the courtesy of adding Grom (Honda, MSX) data. However, I am unsure of the accuracy of some of spec's posted. I found a flaw in the RPM range @55 mph, with stock gearing. Therefore, I suggest validating the input details to achieve a more accurate result.
    Jeremy1570, BuenosNoches and Ace like this.
    2014 Grom (Red)

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    I'm new to the forums, so if there's an answer to my questions on sprockets elsewhere, please direct me. I searched and couldn't find it.
    I'm currently working on a super lightweight Grom to keep in the back of a vehicle during a 1-year gypsy adventure. I'm looking for more pickup without sacrificing any top speed at all, so I'm lightening all my rotational masses. I'm talking titanium race bolts, carbon fiber wheels, oil spinner delete, anything to make it lighter.

    I've located some "lighter" aftermarket sprockets for both front and back as well several chains. BUT can't find the weight of the factory 15-tooth front sprocket and I won't be home with my bike until October. Any chance you can weigh it? Or someone else can? The lightest 15-tooth front sprocket I can find is 7.6 ounces, but I don't know the difference in weight, if any. If I get one a little heavier than that, it appears to be machinable.

    I can't decide whether to have the factory one lightened, buy the lighter one then have it machined, or just buy the lightest one.

    Has anyone else kept the same tooth count but went lighter? Also: I train every day and never EVER get above 155 lbs but usually sit at 150 lbs.

    Thanks in advance!
    Last edited by TheDubar; 03-18-2016 at 04:33 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by TheDubar View Post
    I'm new to the forums, so if there's an answer to my questions on sprockets elsewhere, please direct me. I searched and couldn't find it.
    I'm currently working on a super lightweight Grom to keep in the back of a vehicle during a 1-year gypsy adventure. I'm looking for more pickup without sacrificing any top speed at all, so I'm lightening all my rotational masses. I'm talking titanium race bolts, carbon fiber wheels, oil spinner delete, anything to make it lighter.

    I've located some "lighter" aftermarket sprockets for both front and back as well several chains. BUT can't find the weight of the factory 15-tooth front sprocket and I won't be home with my bike until October. Any chance you can weigh it? Or someone else can? The lightest 15-tooth front sprocket I can find is 7.6 ounces, but I don't know the difference in weight, if any. If I get one a little heavier than that, it appears to be machinable.

    I can't decide whether to have the factory one lightened, buy the lighter one then have it machined, or just buy the lightest one.

    Has anyone else kept the same tooth count but went lighter? Also: I train every day and never EVER get above 155 lbs but usually sit at 150 lbs.

    Thanks in advance!
    strip foam from grom seat and recover seat, remove all body plastic and fenders and make it look like a naked monkey bike, cut the rear passenger pegs and metal housing for it, remove the mirrors and all reflectors, use 120/70-12 tire on the rear, drill holes in brake disc on both front and rear to reduce weight, drill holes in the rear swing arm to reduce metal weight, all metal brackets on the grom and rear area can be drilled with small holes to reduce even more weight, eat 2 boil eggs in the morning and chicken breast at lunch time and lots of water and blended carrot-spinach in a juicer for evening meal and do this for a month and lose another 8 lbs of body weight. Good luck.
    Last edited by CiscoSanJose; 03-18-2016 at 06:34 AM.
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    Stock 15T front sprocket weighs 3.8 ounces as weighed on an accuracy-verified postal scale.

    The weights you're getting for the sprockets you've found may be the shipped weight.......
    Last edited by FangShui; 03-18-2016 at 01:14 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by CiscoSanJose View Post
    strip foam from grom seat and recover seat, remove all body plastic and fenders and make it look like a naked monkey bike, cut the rear passenger pegs and metal housing for it, remove the mirrors and all reflectors, use 120/70-12 tire on the rear, drill holes in brake disc on both front and rear to reduce weight, drill holes in the rear swing arm to reduce metal weight, all metal brackets on the grom and rear area can be drilled with small holes to reduce even more weight, eat 2 boil eggs in the morning and chicken breast at lunch time and lots of water and blended carrot-spinach in a juicer for evening meal and do this for a month and lose another 8 lbs of body weight. Good luck.
    Honestly, you must not have read a word of what I wrote...I said rotational masses. Things that the engine has to turn to achieve motion. This is a sprocket thread, not a weight loss thread. My C.F. Rear wheel is 4 inch wide, that tire wouldnt work. Your advice is obsolete.
    Last edited by TheDubar; 03-18-2016 at 07:38 PM.

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